can't decide!

[boyle78]

Ok here's the deal. I have been looking online all day for a new cordless combo kit...the big stores, the online dealers, ebay...you get the point. I really can't decide what brand to get without a little feedback from some people that may have used them. I use the 18v L.I. Milwaukee kit at work and it's junk...so that brand is out. I guess it's between Bosch, Makita, DeWalt and (maybe even Ryobi.) What do you guys have / prefer for the 18v lithium cordless kits?

[electricalperson]

Ok here's the deal. I have been looking online all day for a new cordless combo kit...the big stores, the online dealers, ebay...you get the point. I really can't decide what brand to get without a little feedback from some people that may have used them. I use the 18v L.I. Milwaukee kit at work and it's junk...so that brand is out. I guess it's between Bosch, Makita, DeWalt and (maybe even Ryobi.) What do you guys have / prefer for the 18v lithium cordless kits?

skip the 18 volt line. i got the 36volt combo kit from dewalt and love it. thats all the tools you need. "power of corded without the cord"

[LarryFine]

skip the 18 volt line. i got the 36volt combo kit from dewalt and love it. thats all the tools you need. "power of corded without the cord"Agreed, agreed, agreed, and agreed!

[ibew441dc]

Ok here's the deal. I have been looking online all day for a new cordless combo kit...the big stores, the online dealers, ebay...you get the point. I really can't decide what brand to get without a little feedback from some people that may have used them. I use the 18v L.I. Milwaukee kit at work and it's junk...so that brand is out. I guess it's between Bosch, Makita, DeWalt and (maybe even Ryobi.) What do you guys have / prefer for the 18v lithium cordless kits?

Bosch,Makita,DeWalt, (IMO even Millwakee).......but I wouldn't even consider Ryobi.

Rigid brand at H.D. is pretty good......My personal favorite( a little more expensive than the rest though) is Porter Cable.:smile:

[ibew441dc]

Oops!.....Don't forget about HILTI's cordless line......there definetely top notch.

[LLSolutions]

I've had good luck with dewalt. I don't like milwaukee because they cant stand on the battery. I've used the rigid and like them too, never owned a hilti cordless but they do make a great corded product so they may be worth a look. Any of the big names made in America?

[480sparky]

No matter what you decide to get, don't get it at the lowest-priced online outfit. Warranty may be an issue and 1). they may be out of business next week and 2). they'll require you to ship it somewhere for 6-8 weeks.

[roger]

(IMO even Millwakee).......but I wouldn't even consider Ryobi.


Isn't Millwalkee owned by Ryobi now?

Roger

[Mule]

The cost of replacement dewalt 18v battery's are making me wonder. When I need a new battery, I buy a new tool of some sort to get the battery. Now Ive got all the tools I need, and its battery time again. I got a whole bucket full of 18v batteries and two or three that are any good.

So I bought the 12v Dewalt small drill and dewalt cordless screwdriver, and I believe I going to a corded hammer drill....the cost and hassle of the 18v battery's in the end makes it questionable to me, unless you just consider the cost of more batterys the price of doing business.

We have a union shop in town that runs around a dozen trucks and they dont use cordless at all.....I consider that a bit silly, but my point is that there are folks whom still drag a cord.....

[CopperTone]

don't buy dewalt from home cheapo or blowe's. They use plastic parts in their drill that they sell at those stores - go to grainger or a store like that to buy dewalt - they are more expensive for a reason.

[Fulthrotl]

The cost of replacement dewalt 18v battery's are making me wonder. When I need a new battery, I buy a new tool of some sort to get the battery. Now Ive got all the tools I need, and its battery time again. I got a whole bucket full of 18v batteries and two or three that are any good.


send them here... they rebuild them, and do a better job than the factory
does, usually....

http://www.voltmanbatteries.com

[active1]

Makita 18v Ion has been good to me for 3 years.
They have a small LED work light with a short timmer that is handy.
The drill & impact has a glow in the dark ring that will help you find it when it falls in insulation or a dark atic.
They are light weight.

Which ever brand you chose look for an impact screw gun also. They are smaller then a drill and work real well for screws.

Also I would like to warn about Milwaukee sawsalls. They seem to leave more of the working end exposed. I got myself with an 18v one a few times. I seen a few times guys get it with the corded one needing stiches. Not long ago another trade person was swowing off their 36v Milwaukee set. I told him my concern about the plunger exposed. He said "yep, It got me and I had to get some stiches".

I would not go with Robi.

IMO 36v are heavy and bulky.

[MarkyMarkNC]

I've probably dissected a dozen dead drills from the major drill brands - Dewalt, Porter Cable, Milwaukee, Ryobi. They ALL have metal gears for all three stages of reduction. They ALL use name brand electric motors - mostly Johnson. Some brands use the exact same motor as their competitors do - maybe the windings are different. There are only two major manufacturers of Lithium batteries in the world, so chances are these are all the same as well. Quality engineering on a drill is not really rocket science, so I doubt there are major differences there. They all have similar support and warranties.

Bottom line - If the specs on various brands are similar, chances are they are 97% the same between brands. Buy whatever brand is on sale that week, or has the hot poster girls, or whose color matches your tool box. Any difference you perceive in quality between brands is probably illusory.

[buddhakii]

Whatever you buy, try to get the made in USA. I know most if not all power tools are made overseas, but I've found Rigid does make a lot of their drill bits here.

[Greg Swartz]

skip the 18 volt line. i got the 36volt combo kit from dewalt and love it. thats all the tools you need. "power of corded without the cord"
I have a Milwaukee 28V line. Not quite as bulky and not quite the same power, but I've had them for 3 years now. Batteries are still good... and come with a 2000 charge or 5 year battery warranty.

Oops!.....Don't forget about HILTI's cordless line......there definetely top notch.
Hilti's cordless tools ARE top notch. They are the first company to offer a cordless T6... First ever 36V drill... SWEET!
Tough. They just don't have all the fancy features that some of the companies offer. Just a good, tough drill.

No matter what you decide to get, don't get it at the lowest-priced online outfit. Warranty may be an issue and 1). they may be out of business next week and 2). they'll require you to ship it somewhere for 6-8 weeks.
I understand. I get my cordless tools at Sears or HD. Why? Warranty issues. They are really easy to get a replacement set WITHOUT cash out of your pocket.

Isn't Millwalkee owned by Ryobi now?Roger
YES! And that sucks, since I own Milwaukee tools!

don't buy dewalt from home cheapo or blowe's. They use plastic parts in their drill that they sell at those stores - go to grainger or a store like that to buy dewalt - they are more expensive for a reason.
This is not entirely true. HD & Lowes have multiple versions of tools. They carry home owner grades and contractor grades. If you want to compare, you need to compare kit to kit... model # to model #. Yes, some of the drills (even Dewalt) have plastic gears... but the contractor versions do not.
Besides, $28 at a tool doctor, and 4 minutes of your time... you can have a new transmission installed (or do it yourself... it took me 8 minutes my first time!)

I've probably dissected a dozen dead drills from the major drill brands - Dewalt, Porter Cable, Milwaukee, Ryobi. They ALL have metal gears for all three stages of reduction. They ALL use name brand electric motors - mostly Johnson. Some brands use the exact same motor as their competitors do - maybe the windings are different. There are only two major manufacturers of Lithium batteries in the world, so chances are these are all the same as well. Quality engineering on a drill is not really rocket science, so I doubt there are major differences there. They all have similar support and warranties.

Bottom line - If the specs on various brands are similar, chances are they are 97% the same between brands. Buy whatever brand is on sale that week, or has the hot poster girls, or whose color matches your tool box. Any difference you perceive in quality between brands is probably illusory.
This does make sense.

Now, some input from me:

Have you considered Sears? Craftsman is a well known name brand. I don't know who is making their drills now. It used to be B&D. However, Craftsman drills are pretty cheap, and you can buy an extended warranty.
Overall, they are a pretty good drill... and my buddy bought the warranty... the extended warranty will cover it if you knock your drill off a 30' lift, it splits into 30 pieces...
You bring it back in pieces, and they give you a new drill!
You can't beat a warranty like that!

When my Milwaukee 28V set finally dies, I'm going to Sears. You see, Craftsman is really a good name. No one on the jobsite has their stuff (hand tools or electric) which helps with theft reduction, and the person behind the sales counter is NOT ALLOWED TO ASK why you are bringing your broken tool in... even when there are electrical marks all over it!

Have a great day!

[boyle78]

thanks for all the info guys...looks like I have a decision to make...

[MarkyMarkNC]

Have you considered Sears? Craftsman is a well known name brand. I don't know who is making their drills now. It used to be B&D. However, Craftsman drills are pretty cheap, and you can buy an extended warranty.
Overall, they are a pretty good drill... and my buddy bought the warranty... the extended warranty will cover it if you knock your drill off a 30' lift, it splits into 30 pieces...
You bring it back in pieces, and they give you a new drill!
You can't beat a warranty like that!

When my Milwaukee 28V set finally dies, I'm going to Sears. You see, Craftsman is really a good name. No one on the jobsite has their stuff (hand tools or electric) which helps with theft reduction, and the person behind the sales counter is NOT ALLOWED TO ASK why you are bringing your broken tool in... even when there are electrical marks all over it!

Have a great day!

The Craftsman drills sometimes have plastic gears on one stage of the planetary gears - sometimes not. Usually the batteries are lower amp hour cells. Other than that, they seem to be similar quality to the Dewalt, Milwaukee, etc. The only reason I would not buy one personally is that I have not seen any that have a 1/2" chuck.

[Rewire]

We have dewalt 18v on all our trucks they are good solid tools.The biggest headace is a guy has six batterys and not one charged.I set up a charging station in the shop and purchased additional batteries now everyone is required to take at least one fresh battery and put a dead one in the charger.

[c2500]

I have been using Dewalt for years. Since I am hooked into their batteries, I have alot of their tools. I also have a service center 3 miles from my house. I went to Dewalt when my craftsman died and Sears had no batteries.

If you buy the XRP labeled tools, they are very heavy duty. I have had excellent luck with them. Now, I also have some non-XRP and they hold up ok...you just can't use them all the time. Specifically, the right angle drill. I have 2 that I alternate so I don't do any more damage (have melted some of the armature in one I think as it jingles when I shake it).

I have some 12 and 14.4 drills and impacts...they were on closeout so I could not go wrong with them money wise. Also, the 12 volt is lighter than the others...but no where near as powerful.

I did buy a Lithium Ion drill with 2 batteries. I am not impressed with them. The price was high, and the thing you gain is a weight savings and an odd fitting battery. The Lithiums will work with most tools (except one's with chargers built in) but the smaller battery looks odd. Also, they just die. I prefer the gradual slowdown the NiCad's have. Dewalt has not cut their prices to be competitive in the Lithium field.

As for the NiCads, they have a 2 year warranty (XRP's). I had to do a big replacement in 2005-2006 because of multiple battery failures. I have had good luck with the newer yellow topped batteries (XRP). None have gone bad..yet..and they are 2-4 years old. I started keeping them in chargers and rotatng mine through every few weeks and have found better life spans than just letting them sit. I have some 12 volts that are 7 and 8 years old still going strong with occasional use. (As I am also a builder, i do have times when the battery operated tools sit around unused).


I have a friend with Rigid, and while they will replace the batteries for life, he has had some issues with the tools and batteries. They are ultimately Ryobi.

I have another friend with Makita drills, and he seems happy with them. (He owns a cabinet shop)

I recently bought the Milwalkee 12volt Lithium camera and it came with a small drill driver. I love the camera and I love the driver so far...but it is too early to tell on battery longevity.

My 2 cents worth anyway.

c2500

[LarryFine]

IMO 36v are heavy and bulky.
"That's why girsl don't play the game, coach!" - Keanu Reeves in The Replacements

[byourdesky]

I use the 18v L.I. Milwaukee kit at work and it's junk.


I use that one too....thought it was a good drill cause Milwakuee is good right?...the drill sucks...dies super fast but it is still less than a year old so...i guess it will do

[LarryFine]

The biggest headace is a guy has six batterys and not one charged.Grrr! :mad: Nothing makes me angrier than finding that the spare battery is also dead.

I am anal about keeping that from happening. I have two rules:

1. As soon as a drained battery is removed from the tool, it is placed in the charger.

2. If Rule 1 can't be followed, the drained battery goes back on the tool when it's put away.

I'd rather 'discover' the dead battery while the spare is still charged than when both are dead.

It's like loving to have ice in your drinks, but having no ice-maker:
You must develop the habit of filling each ice tray the moment you dump it.

[LarryFine]

Also, they just die. I prefer the gradual slowdown the NiCad's have.
It does take getting used to the instant plop to zero RPM, but when I yell out "Battery!" and get one handed to me quickly, it's not too bad. That requires bringing in the whole case, not just the drill. (Another peeve.)

I think the DeWalt 36v battery's internal electronic package shuts it down to preserve battery life. Besides, as we know, it's not good for a motor to be run under load with a low supply voltage.

It causes jingling. :grin:


Added: By the way, the jingle is usually the result of what's known as "throwing solder", because the armature winding leads are soldered to the commutator segments, and overheating melts the solder.

[peter d]

The Craftsman drills sometimes have plastic gears on one stage of the planetary gears - sometimes not. Usually the batteries are lower amp hour cells. Other than that, they seem to be similar quality to the Dewalt, Milwaukee, etc. The only reason I would not buy one personally is that I have not seen any that have a 1/2" chuck.

FWIW the Crafstman stuff is made by Techtronic Industries (TTI.) If you carefully examine the Crafstman stuff, you will instantly recognize many similarities with Ryobi, with some subtle differences.

[480sparky]

FWIW the Crafstman stuff is made by Techtronic Industries (TTI.) If you carefully examine the Crafstman stuff, you will instantly recognize many similarities with Ryobi, with some subtle differences.

At least right now. Sears puts their Craftsman stuff up for bids every so often, and low bid gets to make their stuff.

I've gotten sawblades there marked Vermont-American, and dril bits stamped Black & Decker.

[480sparky]

Grrr! :mad: Nothing makes me angrier than finding that the spare battery is also dead.

I am anal about keeping that from happening. I have two rules:

1. As soon as a drained battery is removed from the tool, it is placed in the charger.

2. If Rule 1 can't be followed, the drained battery goes back on the tool when it's put away.

I'd rather 'discover' the dead battery while the spare is still charged than when both are dead.

It's like loving to have ice in your drinks, but having no ice-maker:
You must develop the habit of filling each ice tray the moment you dump it.

I have a simpler rule: No one else touches my tools. That way, they can't drain a battery and leave it for me to figure out.

Many times, I must put a dead battery back in the case because I'm working where there's no juice. That's why I have 4-6 batteries, depending on the tool.

[Greg Swartz]

Well, went to the sears website

There are 2 levels: C3 and Craftsman Professional
The C3 combo kit (4 pack) runs for $169
The Professional (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00929029000P?mv=rr) kit (4 pack) runs for $579

I think there is a slight difference.

Anyway, the next time I'm in the market for a kit, I will ask about the extended warranty. If it covers damage as well... I know where I'm buying.

I know they make Craftsman hand tools right here in town... nearly across the street from Intel...

I know the electronics are made elsewhere, but the warranty can not be beat.

I'm not looking at Harbor Freight specials, which you expect to break, and they offer the same extended warranty... "for only $39.99, you can extend this warranty for 2 years, and unlimited replacements."
I know that I will return weekly, if not daily... there is no value there. Just lost time.

I think that Craftsman makes a good Professional grade tool... if you buy the Professional grade.

The guy that bought his 19.2 back in 2003, that got the warranty I talked about... well, I took his 19.2 vs my 18 DeWalt... and Craftsman won.
His beat mine in battery length, overall strength, less weight and better cost. Of course, this was a jobsite test... nothing you could hook a dyno up to...

[George Stolz]

Anybody have any experience with the Hitachi 18v? I have the 12v, love it, but looking for a bigger version of the same.

[LarryFine]

Anybody have any experience with the Hitachi 18v? I have the 12v, love it, but looking for a bigger version of the same.
Well, you're obviously looking in the right direction. ;)

[Greg Swartz]

Anybody have any experience with the Hitachi 18v? I have the 12v, love it, but looking for a bigger version of the same.

Well, you're obviously looking in the right direction. ;)

I just realized something: Larry actually, officially passed George in posts!
Congratulations!

I bet George has 12k by morning now!

[izak]

I will say this.

I have owned a DeWalt 18 volt XRP drill for 6 or 7 years now.
about 2 years ago i took it in to DeWalt repair to be completely rebuilt. New motor, new transmission, new trigger, new clutch. everythin except the case.
guaranteed fixed for $98.00 or less, satisfaction guaranteed. (I really only needed a new trigger but had everything done at once)

last month i took it in to have the case replaced because it torqued itself to death on a
2 3/8 hole saw in thin sheet metal (masting a roof) snapped the handle right off....

you could tell that there were existing (older) stress cracks in the same place)

that repair cost me 44 dollars including the cost to re-grease the metal transmission gears


that drill has been a real workhorse, and i use it for alot of heavy stuff; larger size unibits, holesaws/carbide tipped cutters, 1 1/4 ship auger bits thru top plates, driving Lag Bolts, and large drill bits in thicker steel.
I always use it in low gear for heavy demand, and I NEVER run the batteries (NiCAD) all the way down.
As soon as they begin to wane i stop and charge them. if there are no more fresh batteries, I WAIT.

Now about Lithium Ion:

The company i work for recently bought about 12 makita LI-ION drill/impact 'Lunchbox' combo kits with 18 volt, 1.5 AH batteries.

while these little things are GREAT for roughing in walls (zipping in panhead screws in metal studs) or running conduit on sheetrock walls with sheetrock screws,
they work OK for drilling holes in steel.
Pilot holes are usually not a problem, but using unibits, one could not expect to get more than maybe 4 or 5 holes out of a 3/4 inch (not conduit size,but perfect knockout stud size) unibit on low speed
hole saws are about the same


that being said, i know that cordless drills arent neccessarily made to be used that way, but my dewalt and its batteries will hold up to that quite reliably if taken care of and last alot longer than the makita drill..

what im saying is, even though ive had to have my dewalt rebuilt, (and it still worked pretty good when I had it rebuilt) it was still worth rebuilding.
the makita drills we are using (some are abusing) will not be worth rebuilding at all.

but the worst thing about Lithium Batteries - COLD Weather..

we have had Alot of Cold Weather here in arkansas lately, and we have had to store the batteries in a heated office trailer JUST TO KEEP THEM WORKING
some of those batteries that have been stored and charged in the cold
(around 30F overnight) dont work at all, and others can barely drill six 3/8 holes in a panel on one charge.

so, as far as makita goes, if youre buying for the OCCASIONAL use at home, they are COOL
I LOVE the impact.

if you are taking it to work, or helping your buddy build his deck, STAY AWAY

[LarryFine]

I just realized something: Larry actually, officially passed George in posts!
Congratulations!
Holy guacamole! 11.4K! I haven't been looking.


Added:
I bet George has 12k by morning now!If my count suddenly drops, be suspicious! 8-)

[bjp_ne_elec]

don't buy dewalt from home cheapo or blowe's. They use plastic parts in their drill that they sell at those stores - go to grainger or a store like that to buy dewalt - they are more expensive for a reason.

Where did you get this info? I've checked, and they're the same model number, so I don't see how that's possible. I'd like to hear more if this is true. PM me if you don't want to post.

[bjp_ne_elec]

Besides, $28 at a tool doctor, and 4 minutes of your time... you can have a new transmission installed (or do it yourself... it took me 8 minutes my first time!)
!

Greg - is this Tool Doctor someone local to you, or are they a franchise? I've never heard of them around NH.

thanks

[Greg Swartz]

Greg - is this Tool Doctor someone local to you, or are they a franchise? I've never heard of them around NH.

thanks
They're a franchise.
We have them in our local Kel Welco / White Cap store.

They fix the tool unless it's really difficult. If that's the case, then off to the Manu. Esp if it's under warranty. They'll ship it out for you... for free!

[Oakey]

As much as I don't want to say..I have Milwaukee tools only to have battery issues with them and have stopped buying them as of late, they just done seem to hold a charge that well, even the new Lithium batteries aren't up to par.
The Hitachi and Makita have been the most reliable for me and they get used and abused. Only my Panasonic drill and saw comes in at a close second and I've had them for 2 years and never had to do anything but replace the trigger.
The 3 Dewalt's I have had all have cracked outer cases and arent worth fixing.

[LHarrington]

Good morning,
We have been using Ridgid tool for better part of two years, one of my co-worker damaged his drill and they replaced it for free. They have a lifetime guaranty when you register on-line. They have also replaced my battery that wouldn't hold a charge. Very comfortable tools. Our assembly department uses the 12v screw guns and really work them hard and every time we had a problem they have replaced part for free no questions asked. If the parts can't be replaced in a reasonable time frame they have replaced the entire tool.

LHarrington

[MarkyMarkNC]

but the worst thing about Lithium Batteries - COLD Weather..



Lithium Ion batteries should work fine in the cold, but they should NEVER be charged in cold weather. Lithium Ion batteries require sophisticated chargers that monitor the charge process, and cold weather could provide feedback that can screw up the charging process.

[bobbyho]

I have the 18 volt Hitachi (not from a box store). It really is an awesome drill. Although I do have to admire some of the carpenters that have Panasonic and Festool. I am too vested in Milwaukee at this time to make a major change.

[Fulthrotl]

I have the 18 volt Hitachi (not from a box store). It really is an awesome drill. Although I do have to admire some of the carpenters that have Panasonic and Festool. I am too vested in Milwaukee at this time to make a major change.

hm. festool. load up the money gun.... however, it *is* a three phase
motor powering it....

[c2500]

Added: By the way, the jingle is usually the result of what's known as "throwing solder", because the armature winding leads are soldered to the commutator segments, and overheating melts the solder.

Thanks for letting me know. It still works, so I'll deal with the jingling :)

[cadpoint]

I'm surprised no one has mentioned the safe work practices of changing from a 12 to 18 volt or a 18 to 36 volt.

For goodness sake, the first time you hammer with the new larger drill pay attention! :roll:

[George Stolz]

I have the 18 volt Hitachi (not from a box store). It really is an awesome drill.
I just bought it. I'll give my review soon. :)

[76nemo]

I use that one too....thought it was a good drill cause Milwakuee is good right?...the drill sucks...dies super fast but it is still less than a year old so...i guess it will do


BESIDES the batteries, I think the 18V Milwaukee's are relentless. I've worked at a shop where they were shared, abused, and left for dead. Those drills are hardcore. I like the dual positioning of the battery. Well, I guess to each their own. Maybe I just have been lucky, but the Milwaukee's that's been in my hands have been much tougher than me.

[George Stolz]

...Maybe I just have been lucky, but the Milwaukee's that's been in my hands have been much tougher than me.
Not in my experience. Four years ago I bought the Milwaukee fat pack with an 18v hammerdrill, sawzall (hatchet), flashlight, circular saw, radio.

The radio is sitting under my desk at the moment, as my computer speakers. The circular saw is still good, but I never hardly use it so no big surprises there. The flashlight croaked PDQ after buying the kit. The sawzall I use on a regular basis, and has held up very well, no complaints with that.

The drill was stronger than it's case or transmission could handle. I used that drill for about two years, and it spent a few weeks at the repair shop in that time. I am fairly gentle with my tools, and it couldn't handle me. :)

Today I went to use a coworker's 18v Li-Ion sawzall, and it was dead. He grumbled about the battery life in it, said he'd never buy another again. Of course, if my sawzall is any indication, that saw is going to bother him until he leaves the trade. :D

[quogueelectric]

BESIDES the batteries, I think the 18V Milwaukee's are relentless. I've worked at a shop where they were shared, abused, and left for dead. Those drills are hardcore. I like the dual positioning of the battery. Well, I guess to each their own. Maybe I just have been lucky, but the Milwaukee's that's been in my hands have been much tougher than me.
I just bought the Milwaukee 18v li drill/driver combo and I love it. I havent pushed it through its paces yet but I have always have good results with Milwaukee products. It drives screws like into butter.

[76nemo]

Not in my experience. Four years ago I bought the Milwaukee fat pack with an 18v hammerdrill, sawzall (hatchet), flashlight, circular saw, radio.

The radio is sitting under my desk at the moment, as my computer speakers. The circular saw is still good, but I never hardly use it so no big surprises there. The flashlight croaked PDQ after buying the kit. The sawzall I use on a regular basis, and has held up very well, no complaints with that.

The drill was stronger than it's case or transmission could handle. I used that drill for about two years, and it spent a few weeks at the repair shop in that time. I am fairly gentle with my tools, and it couldn't handle me. :)

Today I went to use a coworker's 18v Li-Ion sawzall, and it was dead. He grumbled about the battery life in it, said he'd never buy another again. Of course, if my sawzall is any indication, that saw is going to bother him until he leaves the trade. :D

This is very interesting. I have sworn by Milwaukee. I took one upside the head from a 3' drop and I thought nothing was harder than my head. :grin:

I love these forums for the different opinions. I have heard of guys burning up Dewalt's, but never Milwaukee's, there again, maybe I have just been lucky:wink:

[quogueelectric]

This is very interesting. I have sworn by Milwaukee. I took one upside the head from a 3' drop and I thought nothing was harder than my head. :grin:

I love these forums for the different opinions. I have heard of guys burning up Dewalt's, but never Milwaukee's, there again, maybe I have just been lucky:wink:

I have smoked a couple of 14.4s but that is totally because I was abusing the tool to drill out way more than it was intended for. The drills never stopped working but were seriously damaged by pushing the limits and did not have the torque anymore. I love my 18 v li and I still only have the small bats I am waiting to buy the hammer drill which has 2 oversized li bats with it and annother impact gun with it.

[76nemo]

I see alot of construction guys starting to carry Hitachi, any opinions there? Never used one:cool:

[Fulthrotl]

I see alot of construction guys starting to carry Hitachi, any opinions there? Never used one:cool:

i had a hitatchi compressor... it lasted 14 months. i take care of my tools.
no more hitatchi for me.

[BMacky]

I've been using Milwaukee products for years. the other day I used a Makita 18V LI driver and it was like a feather in my hand with all the power of the Milwaukee. However, I then had an opportunity to use a Hilti 14V LI driver. Compact, lots of torque, actually just as much as the Makita and at 14 volts.

Just tossing it out there. It's not apples to apples. I've heard good and bad about all the major brands. Agree with all others on the cheaper models sold in the big box stores.

Hilti's are made (I believe) in Austria. Batteries are made elsewhere (Canada?).

[hardworkingstiff]

I have DeWalt and Ryobi drills. They both perform well. I actually have a Ryobi that I purchased in 1996 (still working). Looks like crap, but keeps on ticking.

IMO, on a cost/performance basis, Ryobi is hard to beat.

[fireryan]

we ave ryobi at work and the batterys dont hold up. i personally have ridgid at home and they work great. they also have free battery replacement

[quogueelectric]

we ave ryobi at work and the batterys dont hold up. i personally have ridgid at home and they work great. they also have free battery replacement

I have heard that the battery replacement is a one trick pony.

[Mr. Wizard]

Now, some input from me:

Have you considered Sears? Craftsman is a well known name brand. I don't know who is making their drills now. It used to be B&D. However, Craftsman drills are pretty cheap, and you can buy an extended warranty.
Overall, they are a pretty good drill... and my buddy bought the warranty... the extended warranty will cover it if you knock your drill off a 30' lift, it splits into 30 pieces...
You bring it back in pieces, and they give you a new drill!
You can't beat a warranty like that!

When my Milwaukee 28V set finally dies, I'm going to Sears. You see, Craftsman is really a good name. No one on the jobsite has their stuff (hand tools or electric) which helps with theft reduction, and the person behind the sales counter is NOT ALLOWED TO ASK why you are bringing your broken tool in... even when there are electrical marks all over it!

Have a great day!

Not a lot of people on job sites use Craftsman, which makes a thief less likely to steal the batteries while they're charging. Right now I use DeWalt, I'm with Greg on the thought of replacing mine with Craftsman as they die out, too.

[daleuger]

don't buy dewalt from home cheapo or blowe's. They use plastic parts in their drill that they sell at those stores - go to grainger or a store like that to buy dewalt - they are more expensive for a reason.

To this......Amen!

[George Stolz]

I see alot of construction guys starting to carry Hitachi, any opinions there? Never used one:cool:
http://images.lowes.com/product/717709/717709011335.jpg (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=59635-67702-DV18DL&lpage=none)

I bought the 18V Hitachi hammerdrill last week, and have been using it roughing in the house panel circuits for the 24-plexes I'm working on. I've been mostly drilling 7/8"s holes in 2x8s and stuff like that. The circuiting is spread out enough that it's cumbersome to try to drag a cord around all over the building.

I'm impressed, it does a good job. I took a chance a year or so ago on the gold-colored Li-Ion 18V drill they offered, and the stupid thing would shut itself down whenever you taxed the motor at all, as a safety feature. This drill has the same safety feature, but it's toned back quite a bit - it'll take a chance on your request when you ask too much of it before letting you know you're asking too much.

I haven't had a chance to try out the hammerdrill feature yet.

http://images.lowes.com/product/717709/717709010147.jpg (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=53876-67702-DS12DVF3&lpage=none)

It's not a replacement for my 12V version, but I think they'll make great companions. I was asking too much out of the 12v roughing in. But I quickly discovered I missed the 12v's smaller size and weight when I slid over to the clubhouse to hang a few ceiling fans that came in late. It's also better for stripping out panels, it's not as clunky when slapping it between your legs while getting the conductors into place.

JMO,

[growler]

skip the 18 volt line. i got the 36volt combo kit from dewalt and love it. thats all the tools you need. "power of corded without the cord"

I don't see it that way, sure the 36 volt tools have enough power but they are bigger and heavier. I think that tools should be purchased for the job you intend to use them for.

I have lots of heavy tools but for a normal service call I'm never going to use them so I keep a little 12V drill in the tool bag. I see no reason to carry an elephant gun when I'm only hunting rabbits.

The best way to buy tools is to use one's that will make life easy and not one's that will impress the rubes. I don't even take an expensive meter in on most jobs because I know I'm not going to need that level of accuracy.

On the other hand if you are hunting elephants it crazy to go out there with a 22 caliber rifle. :grin:

[DanZ]

I'm not looking at Harbor Freight specials, which you expect to break, and they offer the same extended warranty... "for only $39.99, you can extend this warranty for 2 years, and unlimited replacements."
I know that I will return weekly, if not daily... there is no value there. Just lost time.


Hey, those harbor Freight specials have their place! I know an HVAC contractor that uses them almost religiously when he's working on roof tops that are over 25' high. He knows he's just going to set it down for a second and turn around to do something, only to remember he shouldn't have set it on a sloped standing seam metal roof...:grin::rolleyes:

I have a set of Craftsman 19.2V Ni-Cad tools, and the tools themselves are awesome. I was doing some deck repair, and started snapping bits because I forgot to turn the torque down! The only problem I have had with them is battery life. After 30 minutes of drilling or screwing, the battery dies. They offer a Li-Ion upgrade now, but it's $90 a battery!

[dexterg]

Hilti is the best one but expensive