Let's Make Some Holes
- Thread starter laketime
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guitarsarge
Member
- Location
- Texas
Here you go...
Pierre C Belarge
Senior Member
- Location
- Westchester County, New York
The hole-hawg is heavy and very powerful, a possible wrist-breaker.
I used to use the Gooseneck (30degree extension) drill for most of the drilling; walls, floors, ceilings etc...
I used to use the Gooseneck (30degree extension) drill for most of the drilling; walls, floors, ceilings etc...
And like any tool, you need to learn how to use it. Properly. And safely.
Once you learn that, it works great.
Same here, 1/2" RA Milwakee with an 1 1/8" auger bit, plus an 18" bit for top plates if you are under 6' tall. Adjust the handle so it's 90 degrees from the chuck. Drill top plates right next to studs (left side) and use the stud as a brace.
If you are roughing a BUNCH of houses, get the angled extension.
Hole Hawg is too much of a beast. You get better leverage wit an RA drill and it seems like 1/2 the bulk/weight
If you are roughing a BUNCH of houses, get the angled extension.
Hole Hawg is too much of a beast. You get better leverage wit an RA drill and it seems like 1/2 the bulk/weight
With the 1-1/8 auger, if you are drilling 2 x 4s would this not present a problem with 300.4(A)(1) ? With the actual size of 3-1/2", even if you bored dead center you would technically be in vilolation.
laketime
Senior Member
which one out of these two?
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...&prodComp_1=100609422&N=10000003+90401+500859
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...&prodComp_1=100609422&N=10000003+90401+500859
:smile:
That's interesting...the "plumbers" drill is not variable speed, the "electricans" drill is...the basic difference.... I guess that means the electrician can pace himself, the plumber must go "full steam" :smile:
That's interesting...the "plumbers" drill is not variable speed, the "electricans" drill is...the basic difference.... I guess that means the electrician can pace himself, the plumber must go "full steam" :smile:
- Location
- Windsor, CO NEC: 2017
- Occupation
- Service Manager
I agree - but I have had much more trouble in twisting my wrists using my cordless 18V drill than with a Hole-Hawg. I think it has something to do with the fact that when I penetrate a 2x4 with the 18V, there isn't enough rotational inertia to knock the edges of the hole off. When I get through, and my arms move as a result, the sides of the bit seem to dig in and go sideways and then the torque of the drill murders my hands.
No kidding, I am still recovering from a week ago, almost every hole I drilled with the cordless was torturous. I never have much of a problem when using a corded Hole-Hawg (which is what I drilled most of that house with, with the same bit).
It might just be that the Hole-Hawg has less torque in high than my cordless on low, I'm not sure.
billdozier
Senior Member
- Location
- gulf coast
Give me the good ol hole hawg. Beats using anything else in my opinion. Cant imagine drilling a house with a cordless drill.
Pierre C Belarge
Senior Member
- Location
- Westchester County, New York
Here is a picture of the gooseneck I used. There is little need for a ladder in standard 8ft ceilings, and virtually no bending down as well for lower holes. I used these many, many years.
Pierre C Belarge
Senior Member
- Location
- Westchester County, New York
From the supply house. This was years ago, I bought my first one in the '80s.
I believe you can still get them from Milwaukee.
I believe you can still get them from Milwaukee.
I have the same thing, but it's not a dedicated drill, but rather it fits into the chuck of any ?" drill.
BTW, Pierre, you many want to straighten out that one box.... looks a wee bit crooked.:grin:
mivey
Senior Member
Where do you get those nail plates for air? Those would come in handy many places. I'm sure you use an air tool, but what kind of fastener do they use? :grin:
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