Electric Range issue

[dwellselectric]

Hello everyone I am stumped with an issue. My inlaws had asked me to come over because they smelled what they thought was burning wires from the oven when they had put it on bake. So I went over and put the oven on bake and sure enough it smelled. Now here is my question. I removed the back plate and tested the lower element and got 220 volts between leads and 120 volts to ground. Than I tested the upper element and I got nothing between the leads and I got 120 volts to ground on one of the leads. Now if I'm correct I should be getting 220 volts on the upper as well correct?
I couldn't see any of the wires melting or anything. One other thing which they said was odd is when the used to put the oven on bake the preheat light and the oven light would come on in the front of the control. And when the oven was up to temp the preheat light would go off and the oven would beep and the let you know it was up to temp. Now none of that happens. But the oven still preheats. So needless to day I am at a loss. Any ideas? The range is only about 6 years old.

 

[mxslick]

There are two issues I see possible from the info you gave.

First off, the burning smell came from a failure of the electronics that control the upper element.

Second, test the upper element, I'm willing to bet you'll find it's shorted to ground.

Replace BOTH elements (since the upper one may have failed the lower is probably about to) and replace the electronic control module.

Johnstone Supply may have all the parts.

 

[dwellselectric]

There are two issues I see possible from the info you gave.

First off, the burning smell came from a failure of the electronics that control the upper element.

Second, test the upper element, I'm willing to bet you'll find it's shorted to ground.

Replace BOTH elements (since the upper one may have failed the lower is probably about to) and replace the electronic control module.

Johnstone Supply may have all the parts.

I tested the upper element and I had got 120 volts to ground and nothing in between. I should be getting 220 volts in between I would think?

 

[cadpoint]

Get on line to your library and see if they have a copy of time/life complete home fix-it repairs! If the road map (schmatic) is on the model be sure to follow that carefully! There could be DC in there if there are chips!

It could also be the main modula is toast, I want to say CPU because theres probably a board with chips in there! Time clock, temp and the pre-heat light.

If you break the elements out be sure to ohm them out, that well be a sure tell!

Good Luck, ask for your favoite meal by them!

 

[PetrosA]

I tested the upper element and I had got 120 volts to ground and nothing in between. I should be getting 220 volts in between I would think?

You need to do an ohms test across the element and from each side to ground with the element disconnected. Check both upper and lower, since that will give a reference number for the upper one. In any case, you shouldn't get continuity to ground from either lead of an element.

 

[brother]

the element that has only 120 v to ground and nothing of 240, It sounds like you lost a 'leg'. this would give voltage to ground but not on the element. Also, as someone said, the control module may have went bad.

 

[mcclary's electrical]

he told you TWICE to read ohms,,not volts. He said check the element,,,,not the circuit feeding it.

 

[don_resqcapt19]

Often the upper element is only used for the broil function and not the bake function. If they only control the power on one of the legs you could read 120 volts to the neutral, but you should read the same 120 volts from both ends of the element to the neutral in that case.

 

[mxslick]

I got nothing between the leads and I got 120 volts to ground on one of the leads.

If the element has shorted to ground, then here's what could happen:

The side of the element closest to the short will read 0 volts, and it is that leg of the control module which will burn up. The side farthest from the short can have enough resistance to allow voltage to be present from the opposite leg, without burning that leg of the control module up.

In any event, quit wasting time and energy taking voltage readings. BOTH elements need to be checked with an ohmmeter for resistance and shorts to ground (or sheath if you prefer.)

Often the upper element is only used for the broil function and not the bake function.

Not necessarily in a modern electronic controlled range. Some makes use both elements during baking to ensure even heating. The older "mechanical" thermostat ranges did indeed use the upper element only for broiling.

Oh, and by the way: search the CPSC website, GE had a recall on several range models for some serious electrical issues. Make sure your inlaws range isn't on that list. LINK to list of recalled ranges all brands SCROLL DOWN TO "Ovens" and hit find button.

 

[dwellselectric]

I took an ohm reading and the lower element reading is 15.8 ohms and the upper element is 13.2 ohms.