Efficiency comparison

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All,
I e-mailed the engineer at copper.org. Here is his response;

I wonder where you saw that comment, because #10 wire for a 15 amp lighting load seems excessive, and boxes and other devices may change, affecting the installed cost. Perhaps a mis-print by a magazine? (Sometimes a story that I have not seen or reviewed, even though attributed to me, is published by a zealous editor.) A case may be made more easily for #12 instead of #14, but the procedure is the same for #10.

The basic wire loss calculation, simplified, is just the value of I squared R versus the additional cost of the wire.

For #14, R = 2.52 ohms per 1000 feet at 20 C.

For #12, R = 1.59 ohms per 1000 feet at 20 C (For comparison, #10 = 0.9988 ohms)

For a circuit of say 100 feet length, wire length is 200 feet ( 0.2 K ft.)

Let's assume a current requirement of 12 Amps (Limit for #14 continuous).

#14: Power = 12 X 12 x 2.52 X .2 = 72.6 WATTS x 4000 h/y = 290,304 Wh = 290.3 kWh/Y X $0.075 = $21.77 per year

For #12: Power = 12 X 12 X 1.59 X .2 = 45.79 W X 4000H/Y = 183,168 Wh = 183.1 kWh/Y X $0.075 = $13.74 per year.

Savings is $8.03 per year.

In actuality, the #14 will run hotter than the #12, so will have a bit more resistance, but temperature is omitted here.


For 15 amps load, the calculation for #12 AWG is 15 X 15 X 1.59 X .2 X 4 X $0.075 = $21.46 per year

For #10 AWG it's 15 X 15 X 0.9988 X .2 X 4 X $0.075 = $13.48 per year

The savings of $7.98 per year is then compared to the differential cost of 200 feet of the wire to get years to payback. As I said above, though, #10 requires special receptacles and boxes, which may make it more difficult to justify.

I wonder how old the source of that article is, since I have not performed this comparison for several years. Back then, larger gage was easier to justify. But prices have changed, and you should plug in current values for the wire cost, labor, and electricity price. In high energy-cost areas, like New England, upsizing is easy to justify. In areas like the Northwest, paybacks can be lengthy.


I hope this information is of help, and welcome your questions or comments.


I may bump up my HVAC unit, maybe a couple others, but that would be it.
 

ty

Senior Member
I wonder where you saw that comment, because #10 wire for a 15 amp lighting load seems excessive, and boxes and other devices may change, affecting the installed cost.

As I said above, though, #10 requires special receptacles and boxes, which may make it more difficult to justify.


I may bump up my HVAC unit, maybe a couple others, but that would be it.

sounds familiar:
Going from #12 to #10 would also not be cost effective.
The difference in wire cost alone would be too high to see any monetary gain from any effects of heat loss.
The boxes would have to be bigger, spicing wold be harder, and in general the labor cost would be more to install.

This is, of course, discussing effects of general branch circuits.
There might be some benefit to oversizing the wire on your a/c, but that would be a stretch.
Thanks for checking up on me, no crow today. :)
 

ohmhead

Senior Member
Location
ORLANDO FLA
Well Dave build your house better then the NEC install 10# awg i did in mine also ext military when i build something which i built my own house from the ground up poured footers & concrete slab wood framing did it all even plumbing .

I installed it conduit underground and pulled wire of 10 #copper branch stuff i also pulled ac and water heater two sizes up in copper .

And have a 400 amp service on my house and 3/0 main ground copper clad rods 30 feet deep cald welded the works .
And rigid conduit only .

Square D only commercial panels not homedepo stuff and high grade plugs and switches 20 amp good stuff .

Also commercial fixtures inside and small solar power unit & a 17.5 k stand by generator .

The inspector looked at my service and said what over kill who ripped you off this is excessive . I said

I just like it to last !

And when i die my kids can live there and not worrie!:D
 

mivey

Senior Member
And when i die my kids can live there and not worrie!:D
They will have plenty to worry about. By then the code will have changed and reveal all kinds of dangers that we are not aware of now. You may not know it, but if you could look through the time machine, you would run for cover. :grin:
 

ohmhead

Senior Member
Location
ORLANDO FLA
They will have plenty to worry about. By then the code will have changed and reveal all kinds of dangers that we are not aware of now. You may not know it, but if you could look through the time machine, you would run for cover. :grin:

Well i agree Mivey this world has changed the good times are gone the future can be if we dont get lazy . I really think we need another invention that can benefit all meaning everyone on earth not just for profit or megga sales .

Power & fuel lets find a way to do it better ?

I will not see it in my time !
 

mlnk

Senior Member
Find a voltage drop calculator (such as nooutage.com) and plug in your numbers. 10 amp/ 240 volt load run at full load for 10 hours per day at .15 per kwh is $3.60 per day, $1314 per year. If the run is 100 feet changing to #10 will lower the voltage drop .7 %
.007 x $1314 = $9.20 savings per year. Upgrading to #10 costs about $11 in material and more labor to splice, perhaps bigger boxes,etc. Wire price varies, Copper was double several years ago. Also, what is your cost of electricity? For my meter the low rate is 11 cents/kw, the high rate is 62 cents based on usage.
The temperature is based on the wire temp. when it is under load. A wire at 55 degrees will get warmer when under load this will heat up the air in the conduit if it is a continuous load, so the ambient temp. is only temporary. If you could keep the wire 130 degrees cooler, the calculator shows .2% savings. Comparing an attic to underground, you should take into account that in winter the attic is colder than 55 degrees! In a warm climate, I would guess less than .1 percent for underground wire. Per the above $1.30 per year.
In an average house your runs are less than 50 feet average, so cut the savings in half. To run a 100 watt bulb 24/7 for one year costs $130
 
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