Does anyone know of a UL listed amprage and voltage rated meter by pass link? I called Milbank today and the only ones they make are for temp use and are not UL listed or amprage/voltage rated. I have 4-400amp 600v 3ph and 2-200amp 600v 3ph meters that poco would like to eliminate to put a CT meter on transform to help customer save on demand charge. Inspector said as long as units are UL listed and are rated he will have no problem with approval. Installing links in place of socket would definely be easier than trying to splice in parrl 250. Any suggestions?
Milbank meter bypass links
- Thread starter WirenutNH
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LarryFine
Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
- Location
- Henrico County, VA
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
I would just leave the meters and just stop reading them.
If the POCO wants them back, they have to bypass them.
- Location
- Chapel Hill, NC
- Occupation
- Retired Electrical Contractor
Are you sure there is not a bypass lever in the meter? I also would have thought that a 3 phase 400 amp meter would be on a CT already. See what I know. Around here you get by with a 400 amp sp resi unit but for 3 phase it's a ct.
cadpoint
Senior Member
- Location
- Durham, NC
Where's the Poco to put them to make the clients draw different?
The Poco usually supplies a CT cabinet and meter bases are a touse up! Depending on service size but usually on the EC, around these parts...
To me it seems the owner needs to release the power to the client(s)((probably a bad assumption) and got lost in the contractural causes it's hurting him due to existing conditions of the service.
I've never heard that term that your asking for!
Poco told client that they could save between $100 and $12k a year if they can get there demand charge for whole building rather than from 6 seprate meters so I am asked to see how to get power throught existing meters due to poco taking back these 6 meters. I could polaris cap and extend condutors through trouths from line to load trouth but I am looking for a simple soulition to install a buss bar type piece inbetween existing meter jaws.
Teaspoon
Senior Member
- Location
- Camden,Tn.
I would think the power company would just remove the meter and strap out and cover and seal the meter base.
- Location
- Chapel Hill, NC
- Occupation
- Retired Electrical Contractor
I believe teaspoon has the right idea. Get a blank cover from the poco for the meter and rip the guts out just splice thru the conductors. The other choice is to pull new wires right thru the meter and just leave the neutral attached to ground the meter.
LarryFine
Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
- Location
- Henrico County, VA
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
To make things more deficult client wants to be able to go back to seprate meters. I p/u a set of the temp meter by pass links to get a look at them and they would be the easy fix but they are noy ul listed. I spoke with poco and they told me that there are co that make these ul ,amp, volt rated links but could not give me any info?
LarryFine
Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
- Location
- Henrico County, VA
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
That's tiny wire in that pic. You could simply wire-nut those, and use mechanical splices for the larger wires, even if you have to use short jumpers where you can't make the ends meet.
I still believe it's the POCO that bears the responsibility to provide and install the links if you go that route. They have access to the right parts, and they're who will pull the meters.
I still believe it's the POCO that bears the responsibility to provide and install the links if you go that route. They have access to the right parts, and they're who will pull the meters.
I agree that it normally would be poco resposabilty but this is a poco that is I believe town owned /op. I tried to up load all pics but the only one I could upload is fire pump which you are right I could wire nut them I think they are #6 or 8 but I am wrestling with the idea of polaris capping parrelled 250 to go throught the meter can be done but lots more work and I am thinking the easy bush bar type install is not going to happen so it is looking like the junctioning and capping is going to be my option.
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