Hope I sound like an electrical contractor I?m into my third week. This is my first post question. Mostly done commercial/industrial work since 94. I want to cut in boxes for lights along side deck stairs do all the wiring under deck with UF. The deck walls are same as deck floors wood. Is there a type of water resistant cut in box? I want to get flush mount lights also is silicone able to be put in wire nuts in outside Jboxes. Thanks
damp location cut in box?
- Thread starter rob12013
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Welcome to the forum
I have not seen a cut-in-box / old work box that is listed specifically for a damp location. The nature of an old work box is that its cut into the surface that supports it and generally removes it from the damp/wet location. The devices supported by the box and the covers for said devices would have to be rated for the environment.
For your particular installation, if the box will be exposed to the "elements", you may want to check into a box that is specifically listed for damp/wet locations to save you any headaches.
Pete
I have not seen a cut-in-box / old work box that is listed specifically for a damp location. The nature of an old work box is that its cut into the surface that supports it and generally removes it from the damp/wet location. The devices supported by the box and the covers for said devices would have to be rated for the environment.
For your particular installation, if the box will be exposed to the "elements", you may want to check into a box that is specifically listed for damp/wet locations to save you any headaches.
Pete
slick 50
Senior Member
- Location
- 6 super bowl ring city
Can you just bring the wire into the back of the fixture with a connector, or does it require a box?
There are wire-nuts available that have a "sealing" compound in them. These are typically used where there is a need to protect from moisture and/or wet locations such as a handhole. As far as filling the wire-nut with silicone that would be subject to approval by your AHJ.
Pete
Pete
mcclary's electrical
Senior Member
- Location
- VA
I did some like that last week. I cut an 1&1/2" hole in toe board. Then I mounted a FS box on the back and brough wires from the light into FS box with rubber cord connector. Scotchcote the nuts. The light covers the hole. It worked (and will continue to) work fine.
juptonstone
Member
- Location
- Lady Lake, FL
cut in / jb
cut in / jb
They make a special wire nut with a sort of membrane that's filled with no-llox or some such substance. I haven't seen one for a while. They use them sometimes in the 120v portion of irrigation systems. As to the lights, my suggestion would be low voltage. They make all sorts of stuff for decks including riser lighting with rotatable light shields... you'd only need one 120 V connection then for the transformer... and it could be on a timer. It's not cheap, but check out Unique Lighting... they offer a lifetime warranty on transformers and have the best stuff that I have seen.
cut in / jb
They make a special wire nut with a sort of membrane that's filled with no-llox or some such substance. I haven't seen one for a while. They use them sometimes in the 120v portion of irrigation systems. As to the lights, my suggestion would be low voltage. They make all sorts of stuff for decks including riser lighting with rotatable light shields... you'd only need one 120 V connection then for the transformer... and it could be on a timer. It's not cheap, but check out Unique Lighting... they offer a lifetime warranty on transformers and have the best stuff that I have seen.
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