Meyers Hub?
- Thread starter laketime
- Start date
- Status
- Location
- New Jersey
- Occupation
- Journeyman Electrician
Sealing locknuts.
- Location
- New Jersey
- Occupation
- Journeyman Electrician
- Location
- Massachusetts
Nope, here's a photo:
I think a 3" Meyers hub is about $30-$45 a 3" sealing lock nut about $8-$10 each.
The meter pan will have a dam ring at the opening, so a sealing locknut will not seat, and the utility may not accept it.
- Location
- Massachusetts
If a sealing lock nut will not seat how is a Myers hub going to?
Volta
Senior Member
- Location
- Columbus, Ohio
If there is an opening with a dam ring, there are probably provisions for a regular hub.
e57
Senior Member
- Location
- San Francisco, CA
I had some (I'm looking for an unoffensive term....) Bonehead - give me grief for using them on top of an enclosure... She said that they were not rated for UV exposure... :roll: I could NOT find out.... So I swapped it... I put it on the inside, and put a bonding locknut on the out side - gave me grief about that... When I told her she'd have to find out herself why the bonding locknut cant get wet - that was the end of it...
Anyway - a bonding Myrers hub is the superior product for longevity when entering from the top - it seals out water, and does little enamal damage where water would collect and rust... Where as the sides a more preferable sealing locknut would be wiser of the choices due to cost. JMSO
I had some (I'm looking for an unoffensive term....) Bonehead - give me grief for using them on top of an enclosure... She said that they were not rated for UV exposure... :roll: I could NOT find out.... So I swapped it... I put it on the inside, and put a bonding locknut on the out side - gave me grief about that... When I told her she'd have to find out herself why the bonding locknut cant get wet - that was the end of it...
Anyway - a bonding Myrers hub is the superior product for longevity when entering from the top - it seals out water, and does little enamal damage where water would collect and rust... Where as the sides a more preferable sealing locknut would be wiser of the choices due to cost. JMSO
The OP was looking for the least expensive way, and my guess would be the superior way myrers hub, or meter hub would also be best for top entry, i like to use the sealing lock nuts on a side entry.
- Location
- Massachusetts
No they are meter hubs, I was just noting the cost, of a meter hub verses the cost of Myer, the OP was intrested in cost, so a sealing locknut would be the lowest cost, but not the best choice for top entry IMO.
The utility meter inspector will usually be the one to comment on them in my area, if they are used for top entry.
AHJ will probably be a big part. Thinking in the top of the gear - Myers hub, in the side - sealing locknut, in the bottom, locknut. Is any buswork exposed to moisture below where the pipe enters? That may be the AHJ applying regulation.
- Location
- Massachusetts
The NEC and UL allow a sealing lock nut in any position in a wet location.
The AHJ should have anything to say about it unless they have amended the NEC.
- Location
- Massachusetts
I assume the top of his gear has no provision for a meter hub you seem to assume it does.
My own opinion is that rigid threaded into a Myers hub is very likely to leak at the threads between the hub and the RMC.
I think the real issue is that many electricians think Myers hubs look sexy and sealing lock nuts are like a wart on a witches nose.
Yup, not an AHJ issue, and the only comment I ever had was from a utility meter inspector, and his comment was read the installation guide book.
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