How Connect NM to Panel? - Old Work
- Thread starter David40
- Start date
- Status
jimport
Senior Member
- Location
- Outside Baltimore Maryland
- Occupation
- Master Electrician
Are you saying that the original install did not have connectors on the MC?
gadfly56
Senior Member
- Location
- New Jersey
- Occupation
- Professional Engineer, Fire & Life Safety
It sounds like he's adding an additional cable. I doubt anyone would leave spares pre-installed in the box :roll:.
M4gery
Senior Member
Those backwards button connectors are a great idea. I have always just used a normal button connector backwards and made sure to staple the wire well when it's going into the wall. Using a 2-screw metal romex connect requires a huge hole where it enters the wall, not the best method.
Split Bolt
Senior Member
- Location
- Northern Virginia
Not that I know of. But if you cut the ends of the 2 set screws on the MC connector after tightening them, it won't catch on as much stuff during your fish!
Gaffen99
Senior Member
- Location
- new jersey
I was in a supply house the other day and some company makes a old work ring that is rectangular and is cut into the sheetrock above the panel. Then it has a white finish cover when you are done that snaps into place. If you can picture that, I guess it's about 14"x4".
Arlington makes it I think.
Arlington makes it I think.
M4gery
Senior Member
So it's basically just an access panel?
I know you can buy plastic access panels at Home Depot for under $15. They are spring loaded and clip right into a cutout in the sheetrock or plaster. A plumber used one in a closet on a job I was on and I was surprised at how well it sat against the wall.
Gaffen99
Senior Member
- Location
- new jersey
Yeah, an access panel but the width of the electrical panel and about 4" high. A little more pleasing to the eye, I guess.
jetlag
Senior Member
- Location
- Eatonton, Georgia
I know the ones you are talking about there are not made to put in from the box side and they are split to go over the wire. if you try to go in from the box the clamps are backward and wont slide on the wire. The trick is Defeat the clamp some with a screw driver so it is not so tight, then put it on the wire close to the knock with the wire not connected in the box and push the wire and connecter together backwards into the knock out. The reason I use these some time is they come in 3/4 '' . the ones they show in the photo work much better and are made to install from inside but I can only find those for 1/2 ko.. and I but them by the large box from big blue.
jetlag
Senior Member
- Location
- Eatonton, Georgia
wont pass
wont pass
I forgot to say the way I was talking about using the 3/4 plastic wont pass inspection if the ahj is alert because the clamp is holding the wire in the wrong direction
wont pass
I forgot to say the way I was talking about using the 3/4 plastic wont pass inspection if the ahj is alert because the clamp is holding the wire in the wrong direction
readydave8
re member
- Location
- Clarkesville, Georgia
- Occupation
- electrician
I sometimes cut a hole for an old work box, install the box and blank it off whien I'm done. But I like your idea better.
Split Bolt
Senior Member
- Location
- Northern Virginia
readydave8
re member
- Location
- Clarkesville, Georgia
- Occupation
- electrician
I've been known to put a battery smoke alarm over a hole. Don't remember ever doing it right above a panel, usually on a ceiling or high on the wall.
juptonstone
Member
- Location
- Lady Lake, FL
wire into flush mount panel
wire into flush mount panel
I usually cut a 6X6" hole over the panel and then, after getting the wire in, I use a "plumber's" access panel (9x9" spring-loaded, white plastic panel) to cover it. Customers are invariably OK with that. They also make a romex connector with a snap lock on it, so when you push it into the hole, it locks itself in.
wire into flush mount panel
I usually cut a 6X6" hole over the panel and then, after getting the wire in, I use a "plumber's" access panel (9x9" spring-loaded, white plastic panel) to cover it. Customers are invariably OK with that. They also make a romex connector with a snap lock on it, so when you push it into the hole, it locks itself in.
That is something I've always thought about when it comes to connecting to the panel. When it comes to NM cable why is it so important to clamp or squeeze it at the entry point? It's buried in the wall and stapled down the line so it's not going to move. It would seem to me any kind of simple grommet to protect the wire from the sharp edges of the metal would be sufficient. It's not like the wire is a structural component that's going to hold the house together in a 200 MPH wind storm.
M4gery
Senior Member
NM doesn't have to be clamped or squeezed in all cases, take a look at most single gang nail on boxes, there is just a KO for the romex to come thru, no grommet or any other protection.
In the case of this thread, the wire fished down to the panel wouldn't be supported in the wall, so it would need some type of clamp.
kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
In that case you are required to secure the cable within 8 inches of the box instead of the 12 that is allowed in practically all other places.
M4gery
Senior Member
Yes, but that doesn't change anything.
jmellc
Senior Member
- Location
- Durham, NC
- Occupation
- Facility Maintenance Tech. Licensed Electrician
Several types of plastic snap ins can be used. I have seen 1 that had a "gentle" grip on the wire. Easy to snap in, then fish through. I worked with 1 guy who always insisted on metal connectors. I would cut a small slit under panel, hold a locknut at KO with needle nose pliers, then thread the clamp from the inside and fish through with it wide open. A pain to do.
1 of the bad habits I was taught early that I had to unlearn: Lots of otherwise good electricians would just go through the KO with no connector at all. Not the worst thing anyone ever did, but sloppy, against code & can be dangerous. May do ok for 50 years, may not. Others later taught me the ways to work it, including the access below or above panel & blanking it off. LV brackets are great for that. A 2g bracket gives lots of room to work.
1 of the bad habits I was taught early that I had to unlearn: Lots of otherwise good electricians would just go through the KO with no connector at all. Not the worst thing anyone ever did, but sloppy, against code & can be dangerous. May do ok for 50 years, may not. Others later taught me the ways to work it, including the access below or above panel & blanking it off. LV brackets are great for that. A 2g bracket gives lots of room to work.
- Status