Warming Drawer

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ElectricianJeff

Senior Member
Doing a bid first thing in the morning on a complete kitchen redo (res.). I'm being told that there will be a warming drawer in one of the base cabinets. I've never installed one before. The cabinet guy from home depot where I got the lead said he hasn't put one either so he is no help. I did some searching both google and here and can't seem to find what i'm looking for.

Just for bidding I'm thinking its a 120 amps. cord and plug with recpt in the back of the base cabinet sort of like I would do for a micro/hood combo. These don't come in 240 volts, do they?

Any advive from the been there done that crowd would be most appreciated.

Thanks
 

Split Bolt

Senior Member
My advise is to not assume anything! There are a lot of 240V, 30A hanging microwaves out there! Somebody has to know what is being purchased, it's probably already ordered. Get a brand name & model #, go to manufacturer's website and download the specs and/or installation manual.
 

mkgrady

Senior Member
Location
Massachusetts
The few I have wired were 120 volt, 15 amp and were cord connected. The receptacle had to go in a very specific location. Just look at the drawing of the unit to be installed.
 

kwired

Electron manager
Location
NE Nebraska
Doing a bid first thing in the morning on a complete kitchen redo (res.). I'm being told that there will be a warming drawer in one of the base cabinets. I've never installed one before. The cabinet guy from home depot where I got the lead said he hasn't put one either so he is no help. I did some searching both google and here and can't seem to find what i'm looking for.

Just for bidding I'm thinking its a 120 amps. cord and plug with recpt in the back of the base cabinet sort of like I would do for a micro/hood combo. These don't come in 240 volts, do they?

Any advive from the been there done that crowd would be most appreciated.

Thanks

120 amps is likely to require you to recheck your service calculations:grin:
 

e57

Senior Member
RFI, yes. Ask for a cut sheet for the equipment to be installed. This covers your butt in many ways.

Thats the best advise... But usually they are 4' 120V 15A cord connected (5-15P) - meaning they actually draw a bit less - but the manufacturer suggests a dedicated circuit.
 

dmagyar

Senior Member
Location
Rocklin, Ca.
Kitchen remodels

Kitchen remodels

I did my own Kitchen last year, the oven, microwave and warming drawer really gave me fits with placing the receptacles and boxes for connection. When the cabinets were installed then I had to relocate the warming drawer connection as you couldn't plug it in when it was shown. The warming drawer was 120 volts and 15 amps. Good luck, it took way more time than I originally figured for the rough in and connection.
 

e57

Senior Member
I did my own Kitchen last year, the oven, microwave and warming drawer really gave me fits with placing the receptacles and boxes for connection. When the cabinets were installed then I had to relocate the warming drawer connection as you couldn't plug it in when it was shown. The warming drawer was 120 volts and 15 amps. Good luck, it took way more time than I originally figured for the rough in and connection.
I usually do these in the cab below or adjacent to where the drawer will actually be. Not just because the obvious interference of the item being in the way. But also due to local interpretation of accessibility of the disconnecting means for fixed in place appliances.
 

devine

Member
yes jeff, most are cord connected. you should run a new circuit out from the panel and install a dedicated single recept (15 amp if using a 15 amp breaker/ 20 A if installing a 20 amp breaker) and yes, the receptacle has to be in a very specific location. I recently installed a GE warming drawer #PKD915SM and the recept had to be located in the ajoining cabinet. 42" max on the right cab or 16" max in the left cabinet. Pull the spects for your unit on line and this should help you with your situation. the kw rating on my unit was .45kw.... good luck
 

e57

Senior Member
You mean they interpret the need for it correctly? :grin:
We'll just say they have an opinion on the matter (not fitting what seems to be popular or often manufacturer opinion) - and fitting with the wording of the code itself. (422.33)

That opinion being - if you have to remove said item to disconnect it while still connected to the ungrounded conductors, then it is hardly 'accessible'....
 

iwire

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Massachusetts
We'll just say they have an opinion on the matter (not fitting what seems to be popular or often manufacturer opinion) - and fitting with the wording of the code itself. (422.33)

That opinion being - if you have to remove said item to disconnect it while still connected to the ungrounded conductors, then it is hardly 'accessible'....


I will stick with correctly. :D
 
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