Light Switch & Pocket Doors
- Thread starter markstg
- Start date
- Status
- Location
- Chapel Hill, NC
- Occupation
- Retired Electrical Contractor
I have done it if it is a 2x6 wall but not with 2x4 walls.
Its 2 pocket doors, one on each side. Its an entry to a study off a foyer, so didn't want swing doors.
Depends on the framing, the house I did had the same set up as you describe. The pocket door walls where 2x4 on the their sides. I had 1.5 to work with, used 4"sq boxes with mud rings to get them in there. Had to get creative on the box fill issues but worked ok for a 2 gang.
Tom
Tom
walkerj
Senior Member
- Location
- Baton Rouge
I agree with Davis.
I have always done it like that.
Edit: You have to use 1/8" mudrings and it needs 2 layers of rock on bathroom side.
I have always done it like that.
Edit: You have to use 1/8" mudrings and it needs 2 layers of rock on bathroom side.
Last edited:
IslandSparky
Member
Why not use LV wiring and a relay?
Cavie
Senior Member
- Location
- SW Florida
LV wiring and a relay is a very common way it is done.
- Location
- Chapel Hill, NC
- Occupation
- Retired Electrical Contractor
This is what I said. If you have 2x4 on their sides and a pocket door in the middle then you have a 2x6 wall. If on the otherhand, the builder or architects cheap out and use the flimsy kit then you cannot put a switch in the wall.
jmellc
Senior Member
- Location
- Durham, NC
- Occupation
- Facility Maintenance Tech. Licensed Electrician
A very shallow box may work if you only have a switch leg. I forget min legal depth if device is installed. I have a pocket door but no issue, my switches were already on other side when door installed. Someone said double rock, etc. That sounds good to me. For some uses, there is now a blue box, shallow with a "side pocket". Always thought they looked goofy, but I used a few in a mobile home wall & they worked well. I try to keep a few now.
LarryFine
Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
- Location
- Henrico County, VA
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
- Location
- Windsor, CO NEC: 2017
- Occupation
- Service Manager
You might look into the Leviton wireless switches. You just screw it to the wall at trim, aside from the details. 
ETA: http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpSctDspRte.jsp?section=28765&minisite=10025
ETA: http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpSctDspRte.jsp?section=28765&minisite=10025
Last edited:
ericsherman37
Senior Member
- Location
- Oregon Coast
I'd just surface mount one of these with one of these for the switch and then have one of these stubbed out the top into the ceiling.
Oh yah! Don't forget this, this (or alternatively, this or this (if you're cheap)), and probably at least two of these. And this, of course. That's the whole point.
It'd give the place a cool "steampunk" vibe, wouldn't it?
Oh yah! Don't forget this, this (or alternatively, this or this (if you're cheap)), and probably at least two of these. And this, of course. That's the whole point.
It'd give the place a cool "steampunk" vibe, wouldn't it?
No ice pack for when the HO smacks you for the slightly hacky, industrial looking install you just did in their living room? :grin: (I hate the limited smiley choice here)
ericsherman37
Senior Member
- Location
- Oregon Coast
It wouldn't be hacky! At least if you made sure to remember to do this before you land the pipe in the box.
Lol, for the record I said slightly hacky.
wireguy8169
Senior Member
- Location
- Southern Maine
Thats how I typically do it instead of spending the time and energy trying to make it work, but if you can make it work and like to that works too
- Location
- Windsor, CO NEC: 2017
- Occupation
- Service Manager
Must have been a slow Saturday night, ey?
- Status