Pipes froze. Heater installation?

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iwirehouses

Senior Member
A customer had the pipes freeze in a several hundred year old house. There is a 2 foot crawl space under the house, where the owners would like a heater. I always see people who stick a heater in this type of crawl space with an extension cord attached, then they plug it in when it gets cold. I was thinking a more permanent installation hooked up to a temperature switch for when it starts getting cold. I don't want to use a typical space heater considering their tendency to catch fire, and I don't think that baseboard is very typical either. Anyone ever done an installation similar to this that would like to share they're experience?
 
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tonype

Senior Member
Location
New Jersey
Is the crawlspace only accessible from the outside or from the inside? Is it under the entire home? Is it vented to the outside? Are there moisture related problems? Converting the crawlspace to a semi-conditioned area (insulating the foundation walls and a bunch of other stuff) would help to reduce energy use, make the floor above more comfortable and help eliminate the threat for freezing. Some information on making this change is in an article by the US DOE http://www.energysavers.gov/your_home/insulation_airsealing/index.cfm/mytopic=11480.

From my experience, if a heater would be installed, it should be on thermostat control (say, 40 to 45 degrees) - people often forget to do things they should.
 
renosteinke

renosteinke

Senior Member
Location
NE Arkansas
You're at risk of letting your ignorance give Mr. Murphy a nice place to play!

Whether to seal and insulate a crawl space is a topic of great debate, and the 'right' answer depends upon many factors. The "downside" of closing in the crawl space is that ground moisture can be trapped (causing rot and mildew), and that radon from the ground will then pass through the living quarters (causing a health risk increase). I'd stay away from re-designing the house.

Freezing pipes? The best solution, by far, is for the pipes to run in the 'conditioned spaces.' Where that can't be done, then use self-regulating heat tape and insulation. Install GFCI-protected receptacles for the tape to use - even though the tape has a GFCI-plug on it already.

The big advantage to heat tape - despite the more involved installation and higher initial cost - is that you're only putting the heat you need where it is needed.
 
George Stolz

George Stolz

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Windsor, CO NEC: 2017
Occupation
Service Manager
Insulate the crawl, whatever they do. Last month my electric bill was $100 high because my insulation failed. Great stuff is a quick fix, but I'm going to do something more long term soon.
 
ptonsparky

ptonsparky

Tom
Location
NE (9.06 miles @5.9 Degrees from Winged Horses)
Occupation
EC - retired
Depending on lots of particulars, try someone that can spray on foam insulation. Get a good dealer with a good reputation and you will be more than happy with the results. Heavy plastic on the ground in the crawl space helps with the moisture. Contolled ventilation may be needed but make sure you control it and not mother nature. Cost is not low but insulation is the only thing that will pay for itself.
 
tom baker

tom baker

First Chief Moderator
Staff member
Location
Bremerton, Washington
The current version of self regulating heat trace is very safe. It has an outer metal braid over the conductive core. The colder it is out, the hotter the tape gets. if you cross it over itself, it gets hot there and the heat is cut back.
Its protected by a GFCI with the metal braid as the ground path.

Its available in a roll from wholesale houses, in various watts/ft. The mfg (Raychem is one I have used) have tables to determine the wattage, based on size pipe, outside air temp and insulation.

If you insulate the pipes and use heat trace, very little heat will be required. But it will be enough. The water in the lines will be warm, perhaps a disadvantage of sorts
 
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