Log Homes - Bundling
- Thread starter Paul B
- Start date
- Status
kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
I did a log home about 12 years ago. I did not run any cables while logs were being set but I did bore holes in logs that I later fished cables through as well as bore out holes for setting flush boxes.
I also made a jig that I could run a router through the jig and make consistent flattened areas on the log faces where flush boxes were to be placed. this made trim plates sit on a flat surface and made the finished appearance look nice.
I have seen other log homes where they just ran wiremold instead of concealing the wiring and they looked like hell.
Bundling was not an issue on this home. for receptacles there was usually one cable in and one cable out at the most. I only recall one lighting switch installed in the logs and that was by the front door. Careful planning will only put minimal amount of cables in those logs.
This home was logs on exterior walls only, so some careful planning of receptacle placement can make for less drilling. Putting receptacles near corners on interior walls means less receptacles on exterior walls are required - but they may be desired.
I also made a jig that I could run a router through the jig and make consistent flattened areas on the log faces where flush boxes were to be placed. this made trim plates sit on a flat surface and made the finished appearance look nice.
I have seen other log homes where they just ran wiremold instead of concealing the wiring and they looked like hell.
Bundling was not an issue on this home. for receptacles there was usually one cable in and one cable out at the most. I only recall one lighting switch installed in the logs and that was by the front door. Careful planning will only put minimal amount of cables in those logs.
This home was logs on exterior walls only, so some careful planning of receptacle placement can make for less drilling. Putting receptacles near corners on interior walls means less receptacles on exterior walls are required - but they may be desired.
Buck Parrish
Senior Member
- Location
- NC & IN
The ones we have done the cabin delivery and construction guys bored all the holes and cut out all the boxes. I had it in writing that if any holes we're not penetratable then it would be an additional hourly charge to remedy the situation.
Incidentially they done a real good job. I left metal gangable cut out boxes on the job. Just to give them some thing to go by.
Like kwire , lots of the outlets are on the inside walls.
In addition the cabin had decorative base boards that would enable us to fish wires if another out let was desired.
Incidentially they done a real good job. I left metal gangable cut out boxes on the job. Just to give them some thing to go by.
Like kwire , lots of the outlets are on the inside walls.
In addition the cabin had decorative base boards that would enable us to fish wires if another out let was desired.
- Location
- Chapel Hill, NC
- Occupation
- Retired Electrical Contractor
I did a few but I was able to install the outlets in a 4" sq. with plaster ring at the floor level and then they installed a flat baseboard to hide everything. Switches and all were on the inside walls except in one or 2 places.
I did have to drill a few long holes. I used a 1" auger bit with extension bits. You have to continually keep pulling the bit back to keep the hole clean.
I did have to drill a few long holes. I used a 1" auger bit with extension bits. You have to continually keep pulling the bit back to keep the hole clean.
Sierrasparky
Senior Member
- Location
- USA
- Occupation
- Electrician ,contractor
milwakee has a quick chuck for extensions now. They work great.
Open Neutral
Senior Member
- Location
- Inside the Beltway
- Occupation
- Engineer
Well, the NorCal project I've asked lots of questions about is a log cabin; it's the the client's second one. I recall discussions on outlets and can ask.
muskrat
Member
- Location
- St. Louis, MO
everything ok so far-be sure of backcharge if stuff doesn't fit. Use s/g nail-on w/ nail ears cut off(more capacity if switching outlets and easy to mount) Must be there or trust others as holes should be drilled for outlets as the logs are stacked(long bit and back it out lots to clean chips)Floor outlets work but $$$$! Grinder works to make flat surface. Had a friend that was a chainsaw jockey and he made a jig to cut in holes and then grind flat.
MUST be there to pull for ceiling lights and PROTECT the cable.
Look for route from ceiling/roof down to basement/crawl and then up to switch location(lots more wire)
Most doors/windows are put into key-way to provide for shrinkage of logs as they dry(4-6" in 8' wall) can run behind the key for switches.
MUST be there to pull for ceiling lights and PROTECT the cable.
Look for route from ceiling/roof down to basement/crawl and then up to switch location(lots more wire)
Most doors/windows are put into key-way to provide for shrinkage of logs as they dry(4-6" in 8' wall) can run behind the key for switches.
ptonsparky
Tom
- Occupation
- EC - retired
The builders set the logs and drilled all the holes for us as they set them. Worked well but they were a step or two ahead of most.
LarryFine
Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
- Location
- Henrico County, VA
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
Added: I would think that a log home is the ideal use of remote lighting control, i.e. home automation. You'd need one or, at most two gang boxes for most locations.
That's great news, because these:
That's great news, because these:
... really create a vacuum when it comes to retaining its grip on the auger and not rounding out the setscrews.
Last edited:
Open Neutral
Senior Member
- Location
- Inside the Beltway
- Occupation
- Engineer
But they need speedbores with turned down hex shafts that interface. That rules out some of my existing 18-24" long ones.
Sierrasparky
Senior Member
- Location
- USA
- Occupation
- Electrician ,contractor
You can still use your long augers as long as the auger is bigger than the quick disconnect. I usually bore a large hole when drilling in logs.
Open Neutral
Senior Member
- Location
- Inside the Beltway
- Occupation
- Engineer
The newer extension depends on a turned-down neck on the shaft, about 1.5" from the end. My bits alas lack that; they have a ~1" hex section to fit in the chuck, and round stock up to the head.
ptonsparky
Tom
- Occupation
- EC - retired
You either baby sit those types of jobs and charge accordingly or trust someone else and still charge. Not low bid projects.
hurk27
Senior Member
- Location
- Portage, Indiana NEC: 2008
There is nothing low bid with log homes, the last one we did about 6 years ago went $42k for a 2800 SQ.FT. even though they did a great job of drilling the holes and setting the box's with flat spots for the wall plates it was a bust your butt job even with 4 guys just trying to keep up with the log setters and a basment,as they were paying by the hour for the crane, the log ceiling was vaulted with open top inside walls, that made lights and ceiling fans a bare to do, even with how bad getting jobs is right now I still would not want to see another log home like that one.
muskrat
Member
- Location
- St. Louis, MO
Best Idea--I swore off logs back when I was an EC. One major PITA.
LarryFine
Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
- Location
- Henrico County, VA
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
Any chance you can observe the work in progress? It would make for a most valuable education.
Sierrasparky
Senior Member
- Location
- USA
- Occupation
- Electrician ,contractor
So are you saying that the logs are set on a concrete slab on grade foundation?
If it is a raised foundation it's not too dificult to drill and place outlets in the lower log if they are substantial diameter say 14". The log hangs over the inside of the foundation. Once you carve out a niche for the outlet box you will have a nice angle to drill down.
For light switches you will have to feed at the door jamb area up and down.
Just a thought
Yes I can observe the work in progress.
"So are you saying that the logs are set on a concrete slab on grade foundation?
If it is a raised foundation it's not too dificult to drill and place outlets in the lower log if they are substantial diameter say 14". The log hangs over the inside of the foundation. Once you carve out a niche for the outlet box you will have a nice angle to drill down.
For light switches you will have to feed at the door jamb area up and down."
It has a full basement under it. The logs are D shape, flat inside, 8 x 10. The floor joist are 2 x 12's most places.
- Status