Under Cabinet Lighting Troubleshooting Issue

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wptski

Senior Member
Location
Warren, MI
A while back had a relative ask me to help them with their under cabinet lighting as some went out. Having never worked on them before, I found out they were 12V and the transformers were in the basement.
One was cold and the other warm, no skills required but as I remember, I put an amp meter on the input wires to verify. Later when they received the part, I went back to install it.

They contacted me that the other bank went out, they discovered that the other transformer is bad and have a new one. I later found out that a friend electrician used a clamp meter that I gave them the last time to replace the defective part.

They said the power was OFF. I used a Fluke VoltAlert, no power. Breaker ON, still no chirping, verify chirp at another circuit. Pull the twist caps OFF, use a T+ Pro, no power. Use a 87V, still no power. Use an extension cord from another circuit, still shows no power. Breaker OFF, other working lights go OFF as well. Disconnected both transformer wires, VoltAlert chirps, 87V and T+ Pro show power.

I connected the new transformer and all is well.

Connected the bad one at home, VoltAlert chirps and the T+ Pro reads 120V.

I did a search later and these so-called transformers are really electronic power supplies with a HF 12V output, on some there is no output without at least a 20W load and its output can only be read correctly with a RMS DMM .
Not sure what would fool the VoltAlert, etc. but one transformer was from the original install years ago done by the previous home owner.

Anybody have a logical reason for what I described here? When something can fool a VoltAlert, T+ Pro and a 87V, it’s a good way to end up touching a hot wire!!

I wish that I would have at least tried to use the VoltAlert with the new transformer installed.
 

PetrosA

Senior Member
Electronic transformers have an output that can't be read by DMMs but that doesn't influence the line voltage side. The reason the 12V side can't be read (even when there's a load on the power supply) is that they output 25 kHz or more and most DMMs don't have bandwidth capabilities that high.

I'm a little confused from your third paragraph about what you were testing. Was it the line or low voltage side of the power supply? If it was the line voltage side, was it on a dimmer and what kind of dimmer was it on (incandescent, mag. low voltage or elec. low voltage)? Was the dimmer turned on? If it was the low volt side, then yep, you're not going to see correct voltage with your meters. The 87V might show something on the 12V side, but probably not 12V.
 

wptski

Senior Member
Location
Warren, MI
Electronic transformers have an output that can't be read by DMMs but that doesn't influence the line voltage side. The reason the 12V side can't be read (even when there's a load on the power supply) is that they output 25 kHz or more and most DMMs don't have bandwidth capabilities that high.

I'm a little confused from your third paragraph about what you were testing. Was it the line or low voltage side of the power supply? If it was the line voltage side, was it on a dimmer and what kind of dimmer was it on (incandescent, mag. low voltage or elec. low voltage)? Was the dimmer turned on? If it was the low volt side, then yep, you're not going to see correct voltage with your meters. The 87V might show something on the 12V side, but probably not 12V.
I was trying to measure the line voltage side only and no dimmer.

There are two transformers used powering two banks of lights. To make this more clear, when I disconnected the input side of the two transformers that's when the 87V/T+ Pro showed 120V and the VoltAlert chirped. Up to that point, it appeared that the two transfomers didn't have a 120V input but the other bank of lights worked till the breaker was turned OFF and that's when I removed the twist caps, etc.
 

PetrosA

Senior Member
In that case I'm thinking that maybe the power supply was emitting some EMF that interfered with the volt alert, but I'm stumped that the DMM and clamp wouldn't see voltage.
 

wptski

Senior Member
Location
Warren, MI
In that case I'm thinking that maybe the power supply was emitting some EMF that interfered with the volt alert, but I'm stumped that the DMM and clamp wouldn't see voltage.
A few things to mention or add to the puzzle. Both OEM transformers have only two input and output wires but the first transformer replaced a while back had a ground wire which I connected. The latest new one doesn't have the extra ground wire.

The new transformer and the bad one read OL for resistance on the input with the 87V. I wired up the old bad one to a extension cord with no load of course and all three test methods show 120V.
 

Dennis Alwon

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Chapel Hill, NC
Occupation
Retired Electrical Contractor
I also will say that many electronic transformers will not work correctly without a minimum load however that doesn't appear to be your case. I have read 12v from the load side of transformers with my ideal meter so I am not sure why you got no reading. A non voltage testors would probably not read anything.
 

wptski

Senior Member
Location
Warren, MI
I also will say that many electronic transformers will not work correctly without a minimum load however that doesn't appear to be your case. I have read 12v from the load side of transformers with my ideal meter so I am not sure why you got no reading. A non voltage testors would probably not read anything.
The qestion isn't wether or not the transformer is working or not, it's why doesn't a meter/tester show 120V on the input when it's really there. I think that I tried every means to verify that but since the lights on the other bank were working I knew that all my meter/tester were being fooled.
 
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