Washer dryer usage

[Alwayslearningelec]

Does anyone know how I can figure how much my washer/dryer is costing me everyone we use it? It is an electric dryer. Thanks.

 

[infinity]

Simplest way would be to get some kind of recording meter to find out it's total usage for a set period of time, say 30 days. Then breakout your utility bill and use the KWH charge to determine the 30 day cost.

 

[ptonsparky]

Not sure why your asking...but replace.the washer first. By the time.your clothes get through the spin cycle on a HE washer you can dang near put them on once you scrape them off the sides of the drum.

 

[ActionDave]

A cheap and easy way would be to turn off all the breakers except for the washer/dryer, read the meter before and after running a full cycle.

Do they make a kill-a-watt that can be used on 240?

 

[Alwayslearningelec]

An engineer at my job told me to get the info off of the nameplate on the washer/dryer and I can calculate it off that. Not exactly sure what he was saying:dunce:

 

[iwire]

An engineer at my job told me to get the info off of the nameplate on the washer/dryer and I can calculate it off that. Not exactly sure what he was saying:dunce:

You could get a rough approximation using the nameplate data and you would have to know the run time.

BUT, the name plate data will show max current and the unit does not use max current all the time so you would end up with approximation on the high side.

 

[jumper]

An engineer at my job told me to get the info off of the nameplate on the washer/dryer and I can calculate it off that. Not exactly sure what he was saying:dunce:

Here is a calculator. Understand that the settings and run time of the appliances will variate the actual load.

http://www.citytrf.net/costs_calculator.htm

 

[Alwayslearningelec]

Here is a calculator. Understand that the settings and run time of the appliances will variate the actual load.

http://www.citytrf.net/costs_calculator.htm

Thanks.

 

[gar]

111014-0903 EDT

Get a TED 1000 System with the Footprints software. At this time I do not recommend the 5000 System.

The TED 1000 System has two current transformers that are summed, and uses one voltage input (120). You can monitor individual loads or your while house. Using one voltage reference does not mean you can not or do not have the ability to measure power to 240 V loads on a single phase system. In this system it is assumed that the voltage from one half of the power company secondary is sufficiently good to predict the voltage on the other half. The power company in their kWh meter uses the single 240 V supply for their voltage reference. Again assuming that each half of the secondary is equal to the other half.

Resolution of the 1000 series is 10 W, and 0.01 kWh. Maximum current per current transformer is 200 A. Thus maximum power is 240 * 200 = 48,000 W.

Cost is about $165, but you should add maybe another $30 for line filters.

Unfortunately TED uses power line communication and this may create data error problems unless you use an isolated circuit for the transmitter and receiver. Isolation means a filter in the main panel from a breaker to the isolated circuit, nothing but the TED components on the isolated circuit, and another filter from this isolated circuit to a computer that is powered from the circuit for collecting the TED data. Note isolation does not mean DC or a transformer, but simply a high impedance at 120 to 130 kHz.

.

 

[jumper]

Thanks.

Remember what Bob said in post #6. Approximate at best.

 

[jghrist]

Cost is about $165, but you should add maybe another $30 for line filters.

Add $200 for installation. Then see http://www.nppd.com/My_Home/Product_Brochures/Additional_Files/electric_usage.asp for an estimate. Say if you use warm/cold in the wash (don't forget the cost of heating water), the estimated cost is $0.598 per load. You can meter it for the cost of 660 loads of laundry.

 

[Alwayslearningelec]

THere has to be a way to figure it out base on the watts, fla info etc. given on the washer and dryer and knowing how long I use them everytime.....no?

 

[jumper]

THere has to be a way to figure it out base on the watts, fla info etc. given on the washer and dryer and knowing how long I use them everytime.....no?

Nope. The load variations will result in approximations at best. Metering needs a meter.

 

[Alwayslearningelec]

THis is the calculation the engineers told me to use.

the FLA x 110volts = A
Let's say the washer cycle is 1/2 hour

A X 1/2hour =B(KWH)..now divide B by 1000 to get KW for that cycle


FLA X 110volts= A

Let's say the dryer cycle is 45 min

A X 3/4= B(KWH)..now divide B by 1000 to get KWH for that cycle


If I add both the washer and dryer KWH together and multiple by 25 cents that will be the most it will cost me.

MAke sense?

 

[jghrist]

THis is the calculation the engineers told me to use.

the FLA x 110volts = A
Let's say the washer cycle is 1/2 hour

A X 1/2hour =B(KWH)..now divide B by 1000 to get KW for that cycle


FLA X 110volts= A

Let's say the dryer cycle is 45 min

A X 3/4= B(KWH)..now divide B by 1000 to get KWH for that cycle


If I add both the washer and dryer KWH together and multiple by 25 cents that will be the most it will cost me.

MAke sense?

This might get you a rough idea. You would confuse me less if you said A X 3/4 = B(watts) or better = B(VA). Then I wouldn't have to scratch my head so much to figure out why you divide by 1000. Except that the dryer is 240 V. The washer doesn't run at FLA the whole time of the cycle and you need to multiply by power factor to get from VA to watts, but your calcs will get you an upper limit. How do you heat your water? Do you want to include that cost?

Do you really pay 25 cents/kWh? I'm glad I don't live where you do. My rate in SC is 10 cents.

 

[Alwayslearningelec]

This might get you a rough idea. You would confuse me less if you said A X 3/4 = B(watts) or better = B(VA). Then I wouldn't have to scratch my head so much to figure out why you divide by 1000. Except that the dryer is 240 V. The washer doesn't run at FLA the whole time of the cycle and you need to multiply by power factor to get from VA to watts, but your calcs will get you an upper limit. How do you heat your water? Do you want to include that cost?

Do you really pay 25 cents/kWh? I'm glad I don't live where you do. My rate in SC is 10 cents.

No not the hot water. I'm not sure what I pay. I will check...THanks a lot JG

 

[George Stolz]

I tried to figure this out once. I got confused and simply quit doing laundry for a month to see what result it had on the power bill.

 

[Little Bill]

I tried to figure this out once. I got confused and simply quit doing laundry for a month to see what result it had on the power bill.

I bet everyone thought you had lost weight. Until they realized you just looked smaller because they were standing farther from you because you didn't smell so good.:lol:

 

[broadgage]

The only accurate way is to either turn off all other loads and read the utility meter before and after the doing the laundry, or more realisticly to fit a utility type KWH meter to the circuits supplying the laundry machines.

Calculations from the name plate rating are of little value as the load varies during the cycle, which also varies in length.

Energy used for drying is normally much more than that used for washing.
Worthwile money can be saved by line drying laundry when possible.

Here in the UK a typical wash cycle uses from 0.5 to 1.5 KWH with a cold fill washer.
Drying the same load is from 3.0 to 6.0 KWH.
Probably more in the USA as machines take larger loads of laundry.

 

[jghrist]

Worthwile money can be saved by line drying laundry when possible.

Here in the UK a typical wash cycle uses from 0.5 to 1.5 KWH with a cold fill washer.
Drying the same load is from 3.0 to 6.0 KWH.
Probably more in the USA as machines take larger loads of laundry.

Which would run between $0.35 and $0.75 per load here. Up to $0.60 for drying. I'd like you to come over here and try to talk my wife into line drying clothes to save $0.60.
:happysad: