Any tips on J Bolts in pole bases?

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My first time pouring pole bases, we normally sub them out but not this time! We drilled our holes, got our rebar cages in, pipe stubbed up, sono tube in and leveled. I have built a wooden template for our j-bolts, four holes for the bolts and a hole in the center where our pipes stub up. Is there a good way to attach the template to the sono tube so we can pour with them in place or I have heard of guys floating them in after the concrete is poured but do not have any knowledge on how to do this. What in your experiences is the best way to do this?
 

John120/240

Senior Member
Location
Olathe, Kansas
My first time pouring pole bases, we normally sub them out but not this time! We drilled our holes, got our rebar cages in, pipe stubbed up, sono tube in and leveled. I have built a wooden template for our j-bolts, four holes for the bolts and a hole in the center where our pipes stub up. Is there a good way to attach the template to the sono tube so we can pour with them in place or I have heard of guys floating them in after the concrete is poured but do not have any knowledge on how to do this. What in your experiences is the best way to do this?

How about some EMT or rebar cut short enough to fit across your rebar cage horizonaly.

Tie wire J-bolts to horizonial EMT. Be sure to get J-bolt orentiation correct. That one pole

when off will stick out like a sore thumb. Coat your exposed threads with grease to protect

the threads. Hopefully more experienced hands will chime in.
 

Cow

Senior Member
Location
Eastern Oregon
Occupation
Electrician
I recommend at least 3/4" plywood for the templates, 1/2" is too flexible for big j-bolts. Here goes, I'll try explaining it without a pic, so bear with me. This is how we do it, maybe others have a better way. You'll need some drywall screws and a short chunk of 2x2, maybe 6-8' long or so to cut into pieces.

1. Cut two pieces of 2x2 roughly a foot long. Put each piece flush with the top of the sono tube laying horizantally 180 degrees from each other, on opposite sides of the tube. This is on the outside. Run drywall screws in flush from the inside of the tube out into those pieces. Don't overdrive the screws or it'll distort the tube.

2. Now lay two 2x2's across the top of the sono tube long enough that you'll be able to screw into the top of both 2x2's you just installed in step 1. You'll lay your template on top of these boards. You want the template just wide enough to straddle the 2x2's and still be able to clear the nuts/washers on the j-bolts. Put your j-bolts through the plywood template, nuts/washers top and bottom to secure the j-bolts. Drop the template on top of the 2x2's, screw it down, then screw those 2x2's to the ones on the outside of the tube.

3. Pour your concrete. Rough finish it as best you can up against the 2x2's that are laying across the top. Let it set up for a bit. Maybe 30 mins or so. Come back with a sawzall and cut the 2x2's off flush with the edge of the template and get rid of them(you may be able to unscrew these 2x2's from the template and slide them out, but we always cut them. Just be sure your j-bolts don't sink if you decide to completely remove them). Now you should be able to put the final finish on the top of the pole base with only the square template left in the middle. Use a little water sprinkled on the concrete to bring the cream out and let you finish the top a little easier.

4. Don't forgot to pick up an edger the same diameter as the sono tube you're using. Vibrate the crap out of it if you can, wet the mud up a little, and rubber mallet it good to keep the air pockets away. A lot of times I don't have a vibrator, so I'll just rubber mallet it good.
 
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Hv&Lv

Senior Member
Location
-
Occupation
Engineer/Technician
Thanks for the tips, I am gonna use the 2 by 2 method! Just out of curiousity has anyone tried floating J Bolts in while pouring concrete?

I have years ago. I don't really care for the method because you can't see where the ends of the anchor bolts are. Without the ends of the anchor bolts tied in with the wire and rebar, the strength is dependant on the concrete.
I went to replace one a couple of years ago that had 6-6-10 WWM only in the piers. The anchor bolts didn't reach the mesh. the concrete pier split into at the point where the WWM started. the light fell over and had all the anchor bolts attached to it along with the 18" chunk of concrete the bolts were in.

It is easy to float them in. Probably the easiest method. I think it all boils down to how sure are you of the anchor bolt tie to the steel?
 

480sparky

Senior Member
Location
Iowegia
.........A lot of times I don't have a vibrator, so I'll just rubber mallet it good.

A cordless sawzall without a blade works wonders.
Thumbsup-1.gif
 

cowboyjwc

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Simi Valley, CA
Some manufactures spec that the j-bolts point in certin directions. The inspector can't tell if you did it right if you try to set them after the concrete is poured and it would probably be harder for you too..

Now part of that answer was assuming that you are getting it inspected. We inspect pole bases, because anything that requires an engineer should require an inspection.
 

hillbilly1

Senior Member
Location
North Georgia mountains
Occupation
Owner/electrical contractor
........... We inspect pole bases, because anything that requires an engineer should require an inspection.

I wish more jurisdictions did, A while back I posted a picture of two 35-40' poles at a large chain restaurant that had only about 18" of concrete below grade. 60 MPH winds toppled them. This was in a large suburban city of Atlanta too!
 

Cow

Senior Member
Location
Eastern Oregon
Occupation
Electrician
I wish more jurisdictions did, A while back I posted a picture of two 35-40' poles at a large chain restaurant that had only about 18" of concrete below grade. 60 MPH winds toppled them. This was in a large suburban city of Atlanta too!

That's scary, you could kill somebody!:rant:
 
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