Ground Rods, Neutral Bonding, & Generators

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baltimore

Member
Location
United States
Hello everyone,

I have a question concerning grounding and bonding which I have researched fairly extensively over the past week and have been unable to come up with a satisfactory solution for. I would appreciate any help or insight anyone may be able to provide, as I am somewhat stumped. Let me describe my installation and perhaps someone will be able to help. Thanks in advance!

I have installed a 125A main panel in a warehouse which will eventually serve about 12 circuits. Nothing major--no machinery, etc., just lights and receptacles. The panel is fed exclusively by a 15.5kW (prime) generator. There is no alternative source of power, and therefore no transfer switch. The generator is an FG Wilson P14-4S. Using my multimeter, I have determined that the manufacturer has not bonded the neutral to the ground at the generator. The wires from the alternator land on a terminal block which has two hots (A & B phases), a neutral, and a ground, which then feed through the breaker and on out to the warehouse panel via a 4-wire flexible cable which I have spliced to my feeders.

My question is, where should the ground rod be driven, and where should the neutral be bonded to ground? And why?

Since the manufacturer did not bond the neutral at the generator, I decided to bond it at the main panel using the green bonding screw provided by Square D. I then drove the ground rod outside behind the wall on which the panel is mounted and ran my GEC from the panel's ground bar to the rod outside. There is continuity at the panel, therefore, between neutral and ground.

Everything works. The lights and receptacles function normally, and I have 120V phase-to-ground and 240V between phases, as I would hope. But my conscience will not rest. I'm wondering if, by bonding at the panel, I have created a parallel return path for fault current along the equipment grounding conductor which runs out to the generator. I partly believe that that conductor should be removed, and yet the manufacturer saw fit to install it. What do you think?

I've studied the code quite a bit and am unable to decide, based on what I've read, what the best way to proceed is.

As a young journeyman electrician, I pride myself on doing the job right, but there are also a lot of gaps in my knowledge in many areas. I know the system works currently, but I want to make sure it's correct and I would like to understand why it is or isn't. Any help or insights you may be able provide would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks again! I look forward to hearing your thoughts.
 

david luchini

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Connecticut
Occupation
Engineer
I think the grounding of the system as you have described it is not code compliant. The system you have described is a separately derived system, and as such should be grounded in accordance with 250.30.

Per 250.30, you would need a system bonding jumper to be located at any point from the source (the alternator) to the first disconnecting means or OCPD (the c/b on the generator.) Bonding at the panel violates this requirement.

In addition, per 250.30, the grounding electrode for the system shall be the nearest of either a metal water pipe grounding electrode or structural metal grounding electrode. Only IF these electrodes don't exist can you use a ground rod or other electrode.
 

maghazadeh

Senior Member
Location
Campbell CA
In your situation since there is no utility power available, generator is the only source. So having a main disconnect or main CB at the generator requires the neutral and the ground bonding to be at the generator. the same goes for the ground rod (at the generator) assuming there is no metal water pipe or structure metal (Uffer) availble.
bonding at the panel does not comply with code.
 

baltimore

Member
Location
United States
Interesting stuff, guys. I agree that the neutral-ground bond should be moved to the generator, as well as the ground rod. In this situation, where the building is already completely built, is it still possible to bond to the metal frame of the building? There are no exposed steel members outside of the building at this point. Is a ground rod the best one can do in this situation?
 

Joethemechanic

Senior Member
Location
Hazleton Pa
Occupation
Electro-Mechanical Technician. Industrial machinery
Why does the ground rod have to be moved?

Although personally If you want to move the bond out to the generator and drive another ground rod there, I'd leave your ground rod at the panel intact. An extra ground rod isn't going to hurt anything, and it could help.
 

baltimore

Member
Location
United States
Thanks, Joe - the reason I was going to install a new ground rod was so that I could provide a continuous GEC from the generator frame to the rod... the ground running from the generator to the panel is split between the frame and my panel by a terminal strip in the generator and a splice made between my feeders and the flexible cable coming from the generator.

I will leave the rod by the panel to ground as well. I'm assuming the old GEC I have from there to the ground bar in the panel can stay and serve as a supplementary ground?
 

Joethemechanic

Senior Member
Location
Hazleton Pa
Occupation
Electro-Mechanical Technician. Industrial machinery
Yeah, you can only have one N-G bond, but you can have as many ground rods as you want.

Really the N-G bond placement is a bit of a code technicality on a generator install. Some will see the disco on the generator as the first, and like Dave said, some will see the panel as the first. If the generator and the panel are close, it probably will never matter from an electrical standpoint.
 
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