AHHHHHH! I hate bending PVC!

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Electron_Sam78

Senior Member
Location
Palm Bay, FL
I've got a job installing pvc with several offsets and bends. I haven't worked with this stuff much before this but I can tell you I don't like it after a week! I can make an offset using a wood block as a stand in for the equipment (ex.: 2-1/2" offset so 2-1/2" wood block) and a 3 to 4 ft straight edge to keep everything straight. All of this flat against a level hard floor with it held down until it cools. Then I lift it up to check it and there's still a slight dog leg! AHHHH! :thumbsdown: :rant:
 

iwire

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Massachusetts
1) If you have to make the same bends over and over take a minute a make some sort of jig.

2) Keep a wet rag with you to cool the pipe when it is in the shape you want.
 

PEDRO ESCOVILLA

Senior Member
Location
south texas
buy the plugs that go in the ends of the pipe, it makes a huge difference, as the air inside the pipe heats, it expands, these will help prevent mush and cave in so long as you dont gert your pipe too hot. .. you need to tighten those babies up, i've 'em blow right out while the pipe was in the hot box! woo! the wet rag is good idea, i like to use a 5 gallon bucket of water, keep a guart container near by you can fill and pour over your pipe. hey, if it was easy, kids would do it;)
 

Cow

Senior Member
Location
Eastern Oregon
Occupation
Electrician
+1 on the wet rag. Cool it off fast.

I agree!!! A bucket of water and a rag are what I always remember AFTER I get to the jobsite!!!

A piece of plywood, some screws and 2x4 scraps and you could have a nice flat jig in no time.

OH YEAH DON'T FORGET THE WET RAGS! Can't stress that enough....!

:)
 

goldstar

Senior Member
Location
New Jersey
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
Wet rags or the bucket of water are good ideas. I generally use a spray bottle (like the one Windex comes in) and I fill it with cold water and keep it close by when I'm ready to make bends. I also keep it stored inside the hot box along with a pair of work gloves. And yes, I once forgot it was in there and powered up the box and toasted it along with my work gloves.:slaphead:
 

sameguy

Senior Member
Location
New York
Occupation
Master Elec./JW retired
hot box, hot wrap, spray bottle and rags, cold spring bender works for 1/2, 3/4, make jig on plywood, big pipe in antifreeze (sucks) cannon, heat gun, blow torch, but the wet cold water "cures" the pipe in place a must have.
 

cadpoint

Senior Member
Location
Durham, NC
Greenlee sells a short 12"-14" blanket that can help staight'n the bow's.

You really have to watch cap'n the ends it does speed up the process, you've been advised! :)
 

busman

Senior Member
Location
Northern Virginia
Occupation
Master Electrician / Electrical Engineer
I've started using the pipe-viper (that long slinky looking thing) for all PVC bends in size 1.5" and above. It keeps the pipe from collapsing and the metal spring inside helps to soak up the heat so it cools without the mess of water in less than a minute. I won't use the viper to cold bend. That seems to be a waste, but I swear by it for hot bends.

Mark
 

Fulthrotl

~Autocorrect is My Worst Enema.~
http://www.hotbend.com/ would probably cut your time by a 1/3 or 1/2 when talking about heating the pipe. Works good, just takes some practice.

well, i've used a propane torch a lot, but the scorch
factor is always there, it looks like if you were gonna
be bending a lot, this thing would pay for itself....
however, at 800 bucks... and you know it's gonna
get trashed on the job....

and a bucket of water and rags solves the pipe
relaxing problem, and a scrap of plywood, and
four pieces of 4x4 lumber and a few drywall
screws to keep things from scooching around
makes a quickly configured bending fixture.
 

jmellc

Senior Member
Location
Durham, NC
Occupation
Facility Maintenance Tech. Licensed Electrician
I'm not the best on PVC bends either. Mine will pass, but are not works of art. I need to make a board with spacers for the most common offsets I do. Trouble is, I can't carry but so much stuff around.

Torches are very hard to control, I gave up with them, unless bending for a ditch. I mostly use a heat gun now. I can't afford the blanket or trough heater. If one has time, a homemade heater can be made a lot cheaper. I saw a guy who made one with a 4 foot cut of 4 inch EMT. Hole sawed a hole in middle, just large enough for a heat gun go blow into. Made legs from 4 standoff straps and 4 cuts of all thread. Set up, put pipe in and set heater under it on its back end. He had some kind of spacer to keep PVC centered & prevent center burning. It worked well enough & he saved a lot of $ on it. Similar could be made with lots of things. I also saw a toaster oven hole sawed on ends. It worked OK for short bends, could only heat up 12 inches at a time.

If you work a large job where masons have a sand pile in the sun, see if they will let you bury some lengths in their sand. A few hours in the sun will have the PVC very soft, slight bends can be done as is, some heat still needed for sharper bends. It gets you a head start anyway. bury the main length and leave ends out. Don't get them full of sand, that's trouble. Or lay out on hot asphalt or concrete a few hours.

The factory offset nipples are good for some short offsets and are easy to keep & carry.

I need to make time and bend some scrap pieces to 15, 22 and 30 degree bends, cut them short and have them handy. I could put together various offsets that way and have much less dog leg. Too often in the field, there is no good surface to lay things flat and heat, bend, wipe effectively, especially working alone.

I would like to see 15, 22 and 30's sold at supply houses. I think EMT bends were once sold that way, years ago. Now, 90's and 45's are the only ones I see.
 
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