FPE Panel Replacement

[CarlAshcraft]

I finally got approval from a customer to replace an Old 100amp FPE panel. The panel is located in the customer's kitchen. When I did the original walk through, I obviously didn't take a close enough look at what the situation was. The panel is a small panel (approximately 12" wide). The problem I am having is the panel is located between Rigid conduit (feeds the upstairs condo) and a door frame. Unfortunately there is a pantry located to the left of the panel and a door way to the right of the panel. Here is my stupid question, Is there a panel available that is 12" wide? I forgot to mention that the panel needs to be a 20 circuit panel.

 

[chris kennedy]

Can you cut the RMC and use a set-screw connector?

 

[Gac66610]

Eaton - Cutler Hammer has one but you would have to use all twins

Any chance to surface mount one?

 

[templdl]

Eaton - Cutler Hammer has one but you would have to use all twins

Any chance to surface mount one?

And I believe that they have a panel that fits in an I beam if I'm not mistaken, 8-5/8' PRL-2a-LX Column type wide. But it has boldon breakers and would be somewhat of an over kill as well as very expensive.
Have you though of just replacing the chassis? If you could you may loose gutter space putting the neutral/ground bar on the end or one on each end. Then, the issue is the trim which could disqualify the thought all togehter.
Just a bit of brain storming while thinking outside the box.

 

[kwired]

Can you cut the RMC and use a set-screw connector?

I think the RMC in question is unbroken and outside of existing equipment And it really has no reason to be in new panel if it feeds a separate dwelling unit.

How about putting a deep box in place of the existing panel that way the concealed raceways or cables are easy to terminate, but the box also extends out past the finished wall so you can run surface raceways to new surface mounted panel. If there is room just short nipples to new panel. Panel could be below this box if it had to be.

 

[CarlAshcraft]

Thank you to everyone that has responded!

As far as the RMC is concerned...It is a solid piece that continues into another dwelling unit (the upstairs condo). Going along with what kwired stated, assuming there would be a way to safely cut the RMC with live feeder cables in the conduit, I wouldn't feel comfortable leaving access to another dwelling units feeder cables in this home owners panel.

Gac66610, by chance do you have a model number for the panel that you mentioned? I spoke with my supply shop, which is a Eaton distributor and they stated that all of the panels that they have available are 14"-14.5" wide. As far as surface mounting the panel, I can't due to the fact that this would prevent the pantry door from being able to be opened all the way.

 

[iMuse97]

It's OK to think outside the box. But don't install the breakers outside the box.

 

[Gac66610]

model # BR1020B100F11RN , found it at Lowe's their Item # 89671

but like i stated you will have to use twins

 

[jaylectricity]

I think you're probably better off opening up the wall, cutting the stud and mounting the panel that way. You'll have to be creative and possibly add a few pieces of wood to make it work, but it will be cheaper in the long run than buying a highly specialized panel.

 

[CarlAshcraft]

Gac66610...That one is perfect! Based on what is existing, I can use that panel! It will fill EVERY space, but it will work! Thanks for you assistance.

 

[Jerseydaze]

GE has some skinny main lug panels check the blue box web site

 

[Palmbay]

Ill probably get bashed for this, but we usually check with AHJ to see if they will allow using guts of new panel and new pnl cover in these situations. I understand the original box is not ul tested with new guts. In my opinion, it is a good solution to this issue. On a side note, these homes with FPE are usually plaster walls, this makes a good in and out replacement, with very little repair of wall if any.

By the way, we usually use SqD Qo, and it works great for this.

 

[kwired]

Ill probably get bashed for this, but we usually check with AHJ to see if they will allow using guts of new panel and new pnl cover in these situations. I understand the original box is not ul tested with new guts. In my opinion, it is a good solution to this issue. On a side note, these homes with FPE are usually plaster walls, this makes a good in and out replacement, with very little repair of wall if any.

By the way, we usually use SqD Qo, and it works great for this.

I step up and bash you but not too hard.

A panelboard is the interior part that contains the bus, breakers, and any other elements that perform part of the main purpose of the panelboard. The panelboard is installed in a "cabinet". Take the guts out and you have a cabinet. It is much easier to use a panelboard with the cabinet the manufacturer designed the panelboard to fit in. The trouble with some older narrow cabinets is there will not be room for a newer panelboard to fit inside and have proper wire bending spaces.