mstrlucky74
Senior Member
- Location
- NJ
I was told it isd a lot long to attached a modular plug/rj45 connector to a cat 6 cable than it is to puch it down on jack. Seems that way but how much longer is it? Thanks.
I have never done CAT 6, but I don't see much difference in the time it takes to do those tasks with CAT 5.
The P&S system is a joke as there com panels are all jacks with no punch downs and I refuse to install these as I can do the punch downs much faster then putting on the plug ends.
Maybe its just me and my eyes but I much rather punch down then install the end plugs.
When using CAT 6 for high speed digital signaling, the impedance and balance conditions on the wires become critical, just as in coaxial cable for high frequencies. A good job of terminating to a properly designed punch block will maintain the necessary spacing and alignment, but it can also easily be done badly. Requiring a plug on the end of the CAT 5 or 6 forces you to keep the wires properly aligned and avoids any chance for unequal lengths, loops, etc.
Maybe more to the point, the maker of a panel which has only jacks does not have to worry about having the punchdowns done properly to maintain the rated signaling speed of the panel.
Why would you screw up that many? It does not seem that difficult for me...maybe one out of 30 that I have to redo. A lot of what we do is for industrial conrol panels, and there the space is at such a preimum that we go directly to the device with the cable that whe have pulled from the other control panels.You shouldn't be crimping plugs on cables unless it's absolutely necessary. Not only does it absolutely take more time, you will probably screw up at least one out of four causing you to cut it off, discard it and start over. Now what does that do for your time? Jacks are much easier and pretty much foolproof since they are labeled with the colors. And, if you use one of the quality manufacturers like Leviton who also makes a handheld tool for their jacks that will punch down and cut off all the tails in one squeeze of your hand, jack wiring should only take seconds. If you do manage to screw up the wiring just pull it off and re-do it. Jacks are reuseable.
Between the jack or patch panel and the device the port is connected to, always use factory made patch cords, NEVER make your own.
-Hal
I was told it isd a lot long to attached a modular plug/rj45 connector to a cat 6 cable than it is to puch it down on jack. Seems that way but how much longer is it? Thanks.
Why would you screw up that many? It does not seem that difficult for me...maybe one out of 30 that I have to redo.
Wayne,
Do you use the plugs with the little black plastic tray that slides on the wires before you insert them into the plug? The tray minimizes that problem, but you still have to watch as it does not completely eliminate it.
We use a Tyco/Amp plug. It comes with a little black plastic tray (they call it a "load bar") that has slots for the eight wires. You slide it onto the wire and then insert the tray and wire into the plug and crimp it.I'm not sure what your talking about, I have a little orange tray that came with a bag of Ideal 45 ends that the only purpose I could find for it was it has two places (hole shaped to plug in the plug into) to hold the plug one for the RJ-45 and one for an RJ-11, I found it cumbersome and never tried to use it again, The tool I use is an Ideal hand crimp that will crimp 45's to 11's as well as two sets of cutters to trim the wires straight across before putting them into the plug but after you arrange the colors.
I'm not sure what your talking about, I have a little orange tray that came with a bag of Ideal 45 ends that the only purpose I could find for it was it has two places (hole shaped to plug in the plug into) to hold the plug one for the RJ-45 and one for an RJ-11, I found it cumbersome and never tried to use it again, The tool I use is an Ideal hand crimp that will crimp 45's to 11's as well as two sets of cutters to trim the wires straight across before putting them into the plug but after you arrange the colors.
Your link doesn't work for me.We use a Tyco/Amp plug. It comes with a little black plastic tray (they call it a "load bar") that has slots for the eight wires. You slide it onto the wire and then insert the tray and wire into the plug and crimp it.
if memory serves..... a certified cat 5 (and cat 6) data cable can not be terminated in a RJ-45 plug at either end.
has to be to a jack, for field installs.
i've made RJ-45 direct connections in control panels for a bunch of reasons, space being the first one....
but it's a PITA, like packing a marshmallow into a piggy bank. you have to get all the little wires nice
and straight in the correct order, and short enough that the jacket gets crimped by the jack....
i've not seen the wire formers.... i just end up using my fingers.
now, something i'm doing at this time, i'm pulling a bunch of cat 6 cables during rough in.
what i'm gonna do, is punch down the 6e jack at the wall box, coil up the 2' of cable, put
it in a ziplock bag and zip it shut to keep the jack clean and dust free, and put it in the
4SD box....
now, the trick is... how do you keep it from getting trashed by the drywallers and their
roto zips?
i've bought 1,000 4" square bar coasters, with radiused corners. put one in the
box, and put the ring on..... got the double weight ones.....
then, on trim out, reach in with the needlenose, pull out the bar coaster, snap the
jack into a modular plate, and you are done.
i'm using them in all my boxes to keep the evil rotozip and mud out of my boxes.
for an extra $20 i can have my bizness logo put on them for a classier touch.....
and i'm half temped to, 'cause it'll spin my general contractor over the edge....
sort of like monogrammed paper towels in the porta potty....
I like that. I won't install the jacks until trim-out though. I suppose if you want to certify and be done with it your method is a good one.
Since I'm not installing the jacks I don't have to worry about dust and paint but the Roto-Zips are still going to get me. What I do is leave about a foot of cable coiled loosely in the bay above the ring then just take a tail down off of the coil and ty-rap it to the ring. That way if the tail gets hacked up no problem. On trim-out just pull on the tail (or if the tail is gone stick a fish tape up with a hook to grab the coil) and the rest of the cable uncoils and you have a fresh length of cable to work with.
-Hal
How much of the LV work do you do Fulthrottl? Do you terminate everything on a patch panel at the other end?
We'll sometimes pull the cable but not terminate the jacks, although I have done it on a couple of occasions when the customer didn't want to pay someone else to do it. I kind of like it, it's nice having variety...