Entertainment system wiring

[Greg1707]

I know this is a little out of the scope of the forum but I am sure it is an issue that others have dealt with. I am involved in a remodeling project. The customers want a flat screen TV mounted above the fireplace mantel. They want to position the cable box and other apparatus several feet away on the same wall. I addition to providing a power receptacle behind the proposed TV they want the wires between the TV and apparatus concealed behind the wall and floor.

I am not sure how to proceed with this? The owners are living abroad and will return and move in after the job is completed so I do not know what the equipment is etc.
Should I install a flexible conduit with a pull string?

 

[Smart $]

...
Should I install a flexible conduit with a pull string?

A chase of sorts with pull string, yes. Flexible conduit may not be the best option. How would you "terminate"?

Need more details on construction to make best recommendation... e.g. fireplace construction with respect to fishable wall... what's on other side of wall... is beneath the floor accessible... etc.

 

[hbiss]

... Flexible conduit may not be the best option. How would you "terminate"?

You install a large enough flexible conduit to allow the passage of connectorized cables. HDMI connectors are pretty small. You can almost drive your truck through 1 1/2" smurf tube which should handle anything they might need.

-Hal

 

[unytko]

They should tell you at least what AV components are going to be used in this setup, so you could match right AV cables. If you don't have a clear information on what to run "from - to",run bunch of Cat-6 between the two points (TV -Component Coset). You can later convert them to any type AV connection you disire - HDMI, Composit, VGA, DVI, Component .... Search for exemple "HDMI over Cat 5 / Cat 6 Extender Balun" and you will get the idea .... Youncan run up to 300 feet on single CAt-5. I do it all the time, especially for long HDMI runs.

 

[Smart $]

You install a large enough flexible conduit to allow the passage of connectorized cables. HDMI connectors are pretty small. You can almost drive your truck through 1 1/2" smurf tube which should handle anything they might need.

-Hal

That doesn't answer the question: how do you terminate the flex... say in a drywall-covered 2x4 stud wall? What if the mentioned fireplace is entirely masonry, including chimney?

 

[egnlsn]

Use low voltage rings instead of boxes, and secure the flex conduit or smurf tube with one or two hole straps about an inch or 2 above or below the ring. Just make sure that you have plenty of bend radius, and pull in a string before they get the walls up.

 

[iwire]

As someone mentioned they need to give you info about what the want to hook up.

On my own TV I use the following:

• HDMI for the cable box
• Composite for the DVD
• RCA video / audio in for the Wii
• Coax for the VCR
• VGA for my laptop

Of course they might just want a simple coax, they need to give you some direction.

 

[hbiss]

That doesn't answer the question: how do you terminate the flex... say in a drywall-covered 2x4 stud wall? What if the mentioned fireplace is entirely masonry, including chimney?

Use low voltage rings instead of boxes, and secure the flex conduit or smurf tube with one or two hole straps about an inch or 2 above or below the ring. Just make sure that you have plenty of bend radius, and pull in a string before they get the walls up.

Exactly. And if the fireplace is all masonry, well, you're screwed unless it's new construction.

As someone mentioned they need to give you info about what the want to hook up.

On my own TV I use the following:

• HDMI for the cable box
• Composite for the DVD
• RCA video / audio in for the Wii
• Coax for the VCR
• VGA for my laptop

Of course they might just want a simple coax, they need to give you some direction.​

That's really NOT our concern. Just provide a means for the installation by others.

-Hal


​

 

[Smart $]

That doesn't answer the question: how do you terminate the flex... say in a drywall-covered 2x4 stud wall? ...

Use low voltage rings instead of boxes, and secure the flex conduit or smurf tube with one or two hole straps about an inch or 2 above or below the ring. Just make sure that you have plenty of bend radius, and pull in a string before they get the walls up.

Exactly. ...

What if the stud wall isn't new construction? (i.e. OP said it's a remodel job)

Why use a conduit at all if it's a fishable wall?

 

[hbiss]

Why use a conduit at all if it's a fishable wall?

Good point. Just provide large enough holes and a pull string.

-Hal

 

[nhfire77]

Good point. Just provide large enough holes and a pull string.

-Hal

....and if you are putting in a premade HDMI cable, ensure its CL3 rated. (decent brand, not premium or pricy: Black Bull) Don't just use a Wally world special, it wont be in wall rated and will be junk too.

Pulling a whole load of CAT 6 TV to head end is a good idea for all manner of additional devices, IR, emitters, line in/out. Having flex/smurf tubing empty with the CAT 6 outide it will allow future expansion and covering your self when the customer changes their mind after they get back. Which they will .

 

[iwire]

That's really NOT our concern. Just provide a means for the installation by others.

-Hal

Are YOU doing the job?

How the heck do you know what the customer expects from the OP?

 

[hbiss]

Are YOU doing the job?

How the heck do you know what the customer expects from the OP?

I really don't want to start another 14 page debate on this so I will only say that rarely is an EC well enough versed on AV home entertainment to provide the actual wiring without input from others. Customers will ask you to do everything, that doesn't mean that we are all qualified to or should provide everything. The ideal scenerio here is the wiring spec'd by others and installed by the EC. If the wiring is installed by some AV company chances are you get $1000 HDMI cables stapled to the studs before the sheetrock is installed. We have the expertise to provide wireways and chases so anything can be installed at any time in the future. I wouldn't even worry about the actual wiring at this time.

-Hal

 

[Greg1707]

conduit

conduit

As the op I wanted to update everyone. I checked the route for the wires and I think I will install a flexible conduit with a pull string. I will secure the end of the conduit to a stud. I will then cut out a round hole in the sheet rock and install a round fitting that is sold to finish off holes so that computer cables can run through counter tops etc. I will do that on both end.
My supply house does not have 1.5" NMT, however, at HD I saw some flexible tubing that is sold for swimming pool vacuum systems. It is 1.5" in diameter. I think that would work.

 

[DTLight]

I used 1 1/2" and 1 1/4" Resi-Guard in my house to go to the back of the TV's, and 3/4" to regular wall locations for cat5/phone.
http://www.tselectronic.com/shop/product/Carlon-Resi-Gard-Flexible-Raceway/586

Terminating in Arlington recessed outlet/low voltage rings that fit between the studs so they are out of the way for mounting a TV mounting plate over the top if I want.
http://www.aifittings.com/catalog/communications/recessed-tv-box-for-power-and-low-voltage/

All the Resi-Guard terminates in a residential structured wiring enclosure in the hall closet, although most of the model homes I've toured have the structured wiring enclosure in the master walk in closet.
http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/SectionDisplay.jsp?section=37730&minisite=10251

 

[infinity]

Use low voltage rings instead of boxes, and secure the flex conduit or smurf tube with one or two hole straps about an inch or 2 above or below the ring. Just make sure that you have plenty of bend radius, and pull in a string before they get the walls up.

If this is feasible then it presents the issue that NH raised being that the cables now need to be rated for in wall use. Pretty silly but required nevertheless. :roll:

 

[nhfire77]

If this is feasible then it presents the issue that NH raised being that the cables now need to be rated for in wall use. Pretty silly but required nevertheless. :roll:

It doesn't get sillier than my mindless obscure references! It is highly doubtful that a resi a/v system will have an inspection (or even be noticed if it did) or a non CL3 cable would ever pose a threat. I'm a perfectionist who hasn't done it perfectly ever. 'Im like dog chasing a car, if I caught one, I wouldn't not what to do.'