stubbing out uf cable for an outdoor receptacle

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difowler1

Senior Member
I haven't found if it is or isn't authorized to stub out uf cable for an outdoor receptacle on a single family dwelling, without running the stub out through the wall in some sort of conduit, flex, etc. The uf cable would be ran through the OSB siding, tyvek, and then be placed in a box within a brick wall as usual.

Under 340.12 uses not permitted, it says that uf cable is not permitted "embedded in poured cement, concrete, or aggregate.

The exterior of the house will be brick, but that doesn't mean the uf cable would be in "poured cement".

UF cable is permitted in wet, dry, or corrosive location, but that isn't really the issue. I believe the intention of the conduit sleeve was to protect the wire from damage. So we get into the subject of "where subject to physical damage?"

Is there a code reference I am missing on this subject?
 

Volta

Senior Member
Location
Columbus, Ohio
As long as it is protected during construction (or at least not damaged) I cannot think of any section that would require a sleeve of any sort.
 

difowler1

Senior Member
stubbing out uf cable for an outdoor receptacle

I have been red tagged on an inspection for not installing a sleeve on a NMB moisture resistant romex stub out. I don't know why it would be different for uf cable. Local jurisdiction?
 

Volta

Senior Member
Location
Columbus, Ohio
Well, moisture-resistant is not weather-resistant.

NEC 110.11 said:
110.11 Deteriorating Agents. Unless identified for use in the operating environment, no conductors or equipment shall be located in damp or wet locations; where exposed to gases, fumes, vapors, liquids, or other agents that have a deteriorating effect on the conductors or equipment; or where exposed to excessive temperatures.
...
Equipment not identified for outdoor use and equipment identified only for indoor use, such as “dry locations,” “indoor use only,” “damp locations,” or enclosure Types 1, 2, 5, 12, 12K, and/or 13, shall be protected against damage from the weather during construction.

So the romex shouldn't be outside, and if stubbed out, he or she probably called you out on 110.11.

But the UF can be installed outside, so the only protection needed is from nicks, cuts, pinches, and the like. Not from the water.
 

Gaffen99

Senior Member
Location
new jersey
Is it really outside when installed in a weather proof box directly installed on the house? What would you do with an A/C disconnect, run UF for the whole circuit? I think the inspector is reaching a little bit.
 

texie

Senior Member
Location
Fort Collins, Colorado
Occupation
Electrician, Contractor, Inspector
Is it really outside when installed in a weather proof box directly installed on the house? What would you do with an A/C disconnect, run UF for the whole circuit? I think the inspector is reaching a little bit.

I agree. But it seems that some inspectors/AHJ's think that this is a wet location and NM is not approved for wet location. I think this started when the NEC made clear that a raceway outside or underground is a wet location. This is something that I think the code is going to have to clear up at some point.
 

GoldDigger

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Placerville, CA, USA
Occupation
Retired PV System Designer
I agree. But it seems that some inspectors/AHJ's think that this is a wet location and NM is not approved for wet location. I think this started when the NEC made clear that a raceway outside or underground is a wet location. This is something that I think the code is going to have to clear up at some point.
Giving full consideration to the condensation argument that makes an outside raceway a wet location:
The box itself, although waterproof, if fed moist air from the penetration through the vapor barrier, could condense moisture inside. It would be worse if a conduit or PVC stub surrounded the NM and left a larger air opening.

The Tyvek is an air-infiltration barrier and not a vapor barrier, so it would depend on what side of the actual vapor barrier in the interior wall the NM started at.
 

jumper

Senior Member
Giving full consideration to the condensation argument that makes an outside raceway a wet location:
The box itself, although waterproof, if fed moist air from the penetration through the vapor barrier, could condense moisture inside. It would be worse if a conduit or PVC stub surrounded the NM and left a larger air opening.

The Tyvek is an air-infiltration barrier and not a vapor barrier, so it would depend on what side of the actual vapor barrier in the interior wall the NM started at.

Sorry Gold, I gotta disagree. This a legal install IMO.
 

texie

Senior Member
Location
Fort Collins, Colorado
Occupation
Electrician, Contractor, Inspector
Giving full consideration to the condensation argument that makes an outside raceway a wet location:
The box itself, although waterproof, if fed moist air from the penetration through the vapor barrier, could condense moisture inside. It would be worse if a conduit or PVC stub surrounded the NM and left a larger air opening.

The Tyvek is an air-infiltration barrier and not a vapor barrier, so it would depend on what side of the actual vapor barrier in the interior wall the NM started at.

OK, but the question still remains, can you stub out an NM cable to, say, an outside light or A/C disco and be compliant? Many inpectors/AHJ's are starting to question this. I'm not sure what camp I'm in on this, but it has been done forever in most areas. It would seem that to meet the letter of the NEC this is not compliant.
 

jumper

Senior Member
OK, but the question still remains, can you stub out an NM cable to, say, an outside light or A/C disco and be compliant? Many inpectors/AHJ's are starting to question this. I'm not sure what camp I'm in on this, but it has been done forever in most areas. It would seem that to meet the letter of the NEC this is not compliant.


Are breakers for an outside panel required to be "wet location rated?"
 

texie

Senior Member
Location
Fort Collins, Colorado
Occupation
Electrician, Contractor, Inspector
[/B]

Are breakers for an outside panel required to be "wet location rated?"

Oh, I see your point and I've pointed that out before. Yet some think that NM cable can't penetrate the wall for, say, a light fixture. Consider the typical low budget tract house wiring with an outside panel for all the branch circuits-done all the time. Then you get the argument that that is OK but the NM going to an outside light is not. I've actualy seen inspectors make this argument. Seems kind of nuts to me.
 

jumper

Senior Member
Oh, I see your point and I've pointed that out before. Yet some think that NM cable can't penetrate the wall for, say, a light fixture. Consider the typical low budget tract house wiring with an outside panel for all the branch circuits-done all the time. Then you get the argument that that is OK but the NM going to an outside light is not. I've actualy seen inspectors make this argument. Seems kind of nuts to me.

That's 'cause those 'spectors are nuts.:D
 

Volta

Senior Member
Location
Columbus, Ohio
I think some clarification is needed: the OP didn't say that NM to an exterior box was what the violation was written for. The failure as I read it was for 'stubbing-out' NM cable, which I read as a whip in the weather for days before the siding is installed.

The question seemed to be whether a sleeve would be required. I don't think a sleeve would have any effect on the NM / UF issue, and should not be relevant to the inspector.
 

Gaffen99

Senior Member
Location
new jersey
The inside of a pipe is going to have different temps to the outside when under ground or elsewhere. We are talking about a box on the side of a house. What if it is a old work box for an outside gfci outlet, is the box outside if it serves an outside device even though it is cut into the siding. And again, what do you do with an A/C disconnect?
 

tortuga

Code Historian
Location
Oregon
Occupation
Electrical Design
I haven't found if it is or isn't authorized to stub out uf cable for an outdoor receptacle on a single family dwelling, without running the stub out through the wall in some sort of conduit, flex, etc. The uf cable would be ran through the OSB siding, tyvek, and then be placed in a box within a brick wall as usual.

Under 340.12 uses not permitted, it says that uf cable is not permitted "embedded in poured cement, concrete, or aggregate.

The exterior of the house will be brick, but that doesn't mean the uf cable would be in "poured cement".

UF cable is permitted in wet, dry, or corrosive location, but that isn't really the issue. I believe the intention of the conduit sleeve was to protect the wire from damage. So we get into the subject of "where subject to physical damage?"

Is there a code reference I am missing on this subject?

UF should be OK, NM-B no.
NM-B ends at the vapor barrior as other codes define the vapor barrier as the beginning of the damp location.

NM-B to a AC disco would be a code violation however it is permitted under 90.4, I see often if not weekly, it is 1/2" to 1/4" of cable if it goes straight through. Not a big deal.

What kind of connector do you use to terminate the cable to the box? Could be an issue there.
 

Cavie

Senior Member
Location
SW Florida
UF should be OK, NM-B no.
NM-B ends at the vapor barrior as other codes define the vapor barrier as the beginning of the damp location.

NM-B to a AC disco would be a code violation however it is permitted under 90.4, I see often if not weekly, it is 1/2" to 1/4" of cable if it goes straight through. Not a big deal.

What kind of connector do you use to terminate the cable to the box? Could be an issue there .
RX connector is the only thing legal.
 

GoldDigger

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Placerville, CA, USA
Occupation
Retired PV System Designer
UF should be OK, NM-B no.
NM-B ends at the vapor barrior as other codes define the vapor barrier as the beginning of the damp location.
So, under that interpretation, just wiring up interior receptacles in an outside wall will require use of UF, even if there is no outside connection at all?
The vapor barrier on an outside wall will typically be right behind the finish wallboard.
 
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