Cutting pipe with the Sawzall

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Ajambol

Member
Location
Olympia, WA, USA
I have been having a lot of trouble cutting pipe with the Sawzall. Even the small stuff. Just started a job doing commercial work, and we have 1/2 and 3/4 emt to cut. We're told to use the Sawzall with 1 hand, pipe in other. No mounts or anything are really available.

I am not sure what I am doing wrong, maybe its a strength issue. The pipe vibrates, the saw moves, I really don't get any progress. I get very annoyed and just use my hacksaw to get through it. It is a bit slower, but it gets the job done.


I want to get better at my job, and am willing to invest in to tools. I would like to be able to cut pipe a lot faster. Any tips on what I could be doing wrong, or tools I could get that are faster than the hacksaw.
 

eHunter

Senior Member
I have been having a lot of trouble cutting pipe with the Sawzall. Even the small stuff. Just started a job doing commercial work, and we have 1/2 and 3/4 emt to cut. We're told to use the Sawzall with 1 hand, pipe in other. No mounts or anything are really available.

I am not sure what I am doing wrong, maybe its a strength issue. The pipe vibrates, the saw moves, I really don't get any progress. I get very annoyed and just use my hacksaw to get through it. It is a bit slower, but it gets the job done.


I want to get better at my job, and am willing to invest in to tools. I would like to be able to cut pipe a lot faster. Any tips on what I could be doing wrong, or tools I could get that are faster than the hacksaw.

It is an acquired technique.
Keep the blade away from your fingers and tightly grip the pipe.
Use the proper blade for the material.
Using a sharp blade, place the Sawzall foot rest against the pipe to help stop the vibration and movement and pull the trigger.
Be easy with the downward force on the saw blade.
 
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Volta

Senior Member
Location
Columbus, Ohio
Welcome to the forum.

When using the hacksaw is that in the air also? More likely you have something around there that the tubing can be laid on, pressing one foot down on it there, and keeping the shoe of the saw against the EMT cut it that way.

Practice good, even, and true cuts that way first before cutting in the air.

When you move to that, one way can be to put the tube behind the knee of your non-saw side, pushing the EMT against the thigh of your saw side, slightly in a crouching position, and if you like, let the tail of the EMT touch the floor, unless the floor cannot be scratched.

But always, the shoe of the saw firmly against the work.
 

suemarkp

Senior Member
Location
Kent, WA
Occupation
Retired Engineer
How many teeth per inch are on your blade? Try a fine one for the EMT (24 TPI) and other thin metals. For rigid conduit, water pipe, or cutting nails, go for a 14 TPI blade. Cutting just 2X wood, use a 6 TPI.
 

GoldDigger

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Placerville, CA, USA
Occupation
Retired PV System Designer
I would like to be able to cut pipe a lot faster. Any tips on what I could be doing wrong, or tools I could get that are faster than the hacksaw.
Are you having problems getting the cut started or keeping it going once you get to the point where the blade is trying to cut through the thin walls?
The first problem will probably be solved by using the saw foot and keeping the pipe from rotating with a strong grip. (and having a sharp blade!!)
The second problem will probably be solved by using the right tpi blade as recommended by suemarkp.

If you are not holding the pipe against the saw foot, the pipe, especially EMT, does not have enough mass to keep it from just vibrating and following the blade instead of holding still to be cut. :)
 

Little Bill

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Tennessee NEC:2017
Occupation
Semi-Retired Electrician
Are you having problems getting the cut started or keeping it going once you get to the point where the blade is trying to cut through the thin walls?
The first problem will probably be solved by using the saw foot and keeping the pipe from rotating with a strong grip. (and having a sharp blade!!)
The second problem will probably be solved by using the right tpi blade as recommended by suemarkp.

If you are not holding the pipe against the saw foot, the pipe, especially EMT, does not have enough mass to keep it from just vibrating and following the blade instead of holding still to be cut. :)

:thumbsup:
Sounds like he's having the most problem with holding the saw shoe against the pipe, thus the vibrating!

A sharp blade is important, but usually it won't vibrate as much as it just doesn't cut.

Edit: to the OP>>>>You should ask your journeyman to help/show you the proper way.
 
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__dan

Senior Member
Use a portable bandsaw for pipe cutting and you will never go back to a sawzall. If you do not have a tristand to hold the pipe, it's easy to cut on the floor. Rest the far end of the bandsaw on the floor over the pipe, hold the trigger end and pull the trigger, bring the pipe up to the blade against the shoe with the other hand.

And as posted above, having the blade right teeth per inch makes a huge difference. 14 - 18 tpi for metal cutting sawzall, 24 or 32 tpi on a hacksaw. Don't know my preference for tpi on the bandsaw, I would have to look, but it's going to be ~ 24 tpi. Try different blades to find what works best for you in the material.
 

Ajambol

Member
Location
Olympia, WA, USA
some good advice here, especially about the portable bandsaw.

My main problem is getting the initial cut, the blade is a good point... it's not my sawzall, but I did plan on buying one if I could get it to work on pipe. There are 2 on the site, I have more luck with one than the other but it still seems tough and takes too much time for me to keep messing with. One of the blades is much smaller, I can actually get that to work eventually. I got some good tips here, so I will try them. I might consider buying a bandsaw first, though.


We have no tristand, or other things to use for holding the pipe, is that a good investment? Is there a semi-cheap alternative? Tristands are a few hundred, from what I can tell. Would like around 100, hopefully less for now.
 

GoldDigger

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Placerville, CA, USA
Occupation
Retired PV System Designer
My main problem is getting the initial cut, the blade is a good point... it's not my sawzall, but I did plan on buying one if I could get it to work on pipe.
1. The foot on a Sawzall can get damaged to the point where it does not provide a solid support for the workpiece any more. Or the orbital path of the blade may have loosened up through wear. Either of these could make starting (and continuing) harder.
2. You might want to buy yourself a single, proper tooth profile, replacement blade for the other guy's Sawzall to see if that makes a difference. A lot cheaper than buying your own without being confident that it will work.
3. Unlike a portable bandsaw, Sawzall is also very useful for non-electrical work, like plumbers cutting notches halfway through beams. :)
 
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__dan

Senior Member
I have been having a lot of trouble cutting pipe with the Sawzall. Even the small stuff. Just started a job doing commercial work, and we have 1/2 and 3/4 emt to cut. We're told to use the Sawzall with 1 hand, pipe in other. No mounts or anything are really available.

I am not sure what I am doing wrong, maybe its a strength issue. The pipe vibrates, the saw moves, I really don't get any progress. I get very annoyed and just use my hacksaw to get through it. It is a bit slower, but it gets the job done.


I want to get better at my job, and am willing to invest in to tools. I would like to be able to cut pipe a lot faster. Any tips on what I could be doing wrong, or tools I could get that are faster than the hacksaw.

If you're an employee, you should absolutely not be buying and bringing your own power tools to the job. You may as well bring a beaver to the job to chew through the pipe for you as that's what everyone else will do. I'm sure the bulk of the board will agree with me on this.

The employer should have a standard written list of each tool the j-man himself supplies, wrenches, sockets, meters, hand tools ... And companies who have had extensive lists were good for me as everyone was not always short of tools and borrowing / stealing mine.

It is commendable that you want to cut pipe faster. What you actually want is for the proper tool to cut the pipe for you, with minimal effort and reduced fatigue, higher production, on your part. The bandsaw and the sawzall are not interchangeable in this regard. The sawzall beats up the operator like 4x compared to the bandsaw with tristand, and any person telling me to use one to cut pipe, I would score as clueless, unprofessional, and his cluelessness is dangerous to me. If he wants to use a sawzall on pipe himself, he can do whatever he wants with no concerns.

You will have to talk to the owner and he will make the decision for you. When he says "use the sawzall" that translates as "I don't care if the tool beats you up more and is slower, I give the orders and you suffer from them". This will recur many times in different forms. The key is to stand up for yourself and give the owner the opportunity to discuss, to do the right thing or not, and not expect them to read your mind and do the right thing automatically.

It is a no brainer decision for the owner to invest in better tooling to save labor, reduce fatigue, increase productivity, increase quality. You want to see if the owner has a brain, he will know buying and beating up the tools is far cheaper than beating up on the employees. People addicted to power enjoy the suffering they cause to others.

If you want your own heavy tools, and I do, you could try to offer the owner this in exchange for more money. For example, offer for three dollars / hour more, which is ~ $3000 annual takehome more, you will buy thousands in tools you maintain and bring to the job as needed. Everyone here will know this will never fly, But the owner may run out and buy you a stolen bandsaw off ebay or pawnshop, to save himself the thousands in payroll for $150 cash today.

Look up the definition of the word "finesse". You want to do more with less, and the bandsaw is wise, but it is a situation you will have "manage" with finesse. If you are ever going to move up from sawzall operator, you will need to work for a company that knows the difference between a bandsaw and a sawzall, and know what tool to use when.

PS. use ear protection when using power tools, the fatigue factor drops by 1/2.
 

Fishspark

Member
Location
Wisconsin
Occupation
Electrician
we have been using the Panasonic EY3530NQMKW 15.6V Cordless Metal Cutter for about 10 years now.
The 1st ones were like 12 volt or something. Clean cut, very light, cuts thread rod clean, strut, steel, bar, pipe, tubing etc. all the band saws lay in the shop.
I thought everyone used them..
 

JJWalecka

Senior Member
Location
New England
Welcome to the forum

If you have to use a sawzall..

A solid work surface is important
Wear gloves and glasses where need be,
where a vise isn't available there is ways to improvise. Brace the pipe with your foot. Hold the sawzall tight to the material being cut
use a fine tooth blade not a blade made for demo or wood.

Time will make u better...stick to it and dont get hurt

Good luck
 
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sparkyrick

Senior Member
Location
Appleton, Wi
Welcome to the forum

If you have to use a sawzall..

A solid work surface is important
Wear gloves and glasses where need be,
where a vise isn't available there is ways to improvise. Brace the pipe with your foot. Hold the sawzall tight to the material being cut
use a fine tooth blade not a blade made for demo or wood.

Time will make u better...stick to it and dont get hurt

Good luck

A Sawzall is not your best choice for repetitive cuts on conduit. The best tool is a bandsaw. I use the Milwaukee M12 cordless band saw and love it. Some of my co-workers use a metal cutting blade in a cordless 5 1/4" circ saw, but they are noisy and throw a lot of metal chips. Get a bandsaw and you wont regret it.
 

junkhound

Senior Member
Location
Renton, WA
Occupation
EE, power electronics specialty
+1 for bandsaw or metal cutting blade, esp as OP is working a comercial job.

Own preference is an old Makita 10" chop saw with AlOxide metal cutting blade, fastest and easiest, only thing you need to be careful of with any cutoff blade is not to use it in areas with tinder like materials (e.g. have set dry leaves smouldering with a metal cutting blade) . I have my chop saw setup with a metal funnel to catch the sparks, cannot do that with a skilsaw setup though.

+1 also for the goggles and hearing protection, my hard hat has integral ear protectors I can pull down at any time.
 

__dan

Senior Member
+1 for bandsaw or metal cutting blade, esp as OP is working a comercial job.

Own preference is an old Makita 10" chop saw with AlOxide metal cutting blade, fastest and easiest, only thing you need to be careful of with any cutoff blade is not to use it in areas with tinder like materials (e.g. have set dry leaves smouldering with a metal cutting blade) . I have my chop saw setup with a metal funnel to catch the sparks, cannot do that with a skilsaw setup though.

+1 also for the goggles and hearing protection, my hard hat has integral ear protectors I can pull down at any time.

yep. took a long time to find a product I like..

http://shop.elvex.com/p/cu-60r-proguard-system-with-6-pt-ratchet-tectra-safety-cap-ear-muffs-nylon-screen-in-dielectric?pp=12

As far as I know the mesh screen is replaceable with the standard polycarbonate face shield.

I have multiple pairs of Peltors held together with duct tape but these are better than the Peltors

http://www.amazon.com/Bilsom-1010970-Thunder-Earmuff-NRR30/dp/B00139YMDS
 

Sierrasparky

Senior Member
Location
USA
Occupation
Electrician ,contractor
When I used to run a lot of 1/2 and 3/4 EMT we used the makita cordless sawzall. This tool was small compact weighed little. Could use in a holster and cut very fast equal to the bandsaw. Worked great with one hand. Try that with bandsaw
 
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