Wiring for fan/light/nightlight and or heater

[ritelec]

Good morning.

Buddy of mine picked up a light/fan/nightlight for his bathroom.

I'm sure this has bean covered several times. Did a couple searches but have to move on so am asking.

When wiring with nm. What is the general recommendation for wiring these light/fan/nightlight combo units?

Two cables? Multiwire and tape a white ?

I believe I brought the question up with a light/heat/fan a year or two back(maybe more) and it was mentioned that those units had separate neutrals for part of it.

Sight unseen. What should I expect for wiring methods to these multi unit units ?


Thank you for your time.

Rich

 

[ritelec]

ok.looked again....difficult search here, at least for me...

I'll wait till I go over to see what he has. I did a google search and many units look like they get a 3 wire for light/nightlight and a 2 wire to the fan...

So I'll plan on two separate cables. In the even it does use a common neutral for the three at the unit, I'll cut one or see what type of multi conductor nm my supplier carries..




All the best.

Be safe !

 

[ritelec]

All's good. prematurely got my panties bunched up...

three two wires at the fan..

 

[GerryB]

All's good. prematurely got my panties bunched up...

three two wires at the fan..

I normally feed the switch. If I or the contractor provided the fan I skip the night light. If the HO provides the fan and wants the night light (half the time they don't even know it has one), two 2wires. If it is a heater, a 20amp ckt other than the 20a bath circuit, two 2wires. Both cases a neutral and 3 switch legs from the switch box. If you need a fourth switch, 3 wire and a 2 wire. Are you feeding the at the fan?

 

[infinity]

I would use a 4 wire cable.

 

[ritelec]

Thanks for the reply. For next time I'll see what type of nm cable I can get. I'll have power to the switch and the ho/friend picked up a small piece of 14/3 and 14/2.

 

[goldstar]

I would use a 4 wire cable.

That's probably the way to go but most of us don't carry 4 wire NM cables on the truck. So, I would say for a F/L/NL run a 14/3 and a 14/2, tie all the whites together for the neutral and use the black of the 14/2 as the fan. For a F/L/NL/H I would run a 14/3 and a 12/3 (you'll need a 20 amp circuit for the heater). Use the black of the 12/3 as the fan and red as the heater. Keep the neutrals separate (14's for the lights, 12's for the fan/heat).

IMHO, a lot of wires to jam into a small wiring space

 

[ritelec]

In your honest opinion !!! I'm not asking your opinion !!! I asked how you would wire it !!!

I think there should be a rehab code to allow all those conductors in that little fan box !!!




TOTALLY PLAYING !!!

Thanks goldstar. I agree.

Quick question though. On this job the gec from the water pipe goes to the fan. The fan goes to a sub panel and the sub panel goes to an outside disconnect. The outside disconnect was never bonded There should be a rehab code that says the egc through the fan should be good enough right ?

No opinions please.


AGAIN. KIDDING. have a great day !

 

[kwired]

If there is non four conductor cable readily available, I personally have no problem with running 2 two wire cables if you route them together between switch and the unit. But there are some out there that will shoot this down with some nit picky but valid codes

I agree there is no good reason to run more cables/conductors then necessary to the small junction space provided in most of those units.

 

[GoldDigger]

If there is non four conductor cable readily available, I personally have no problem with running 2 two wire cables if you route them together between switch and the unit. But there are some out there that will shoot this down with some nit picky but valid codes

I agree there is no good reason to run more cables/conductors then necessary to the small junction space provided in most of those units.

Picky: @ goldstar
1. If fan/heater originates from a different breaker than light/night light, then tying the neutrals together at the fan mixes the circuits. And the manufacturer probably requires GFCI protection.
2. If all are fed from one circuit, then tying all the neutrals together parallels wires that are too small to qualify.

 

[goldstar]

Picky: @ goldstar
1. If fan/heater originates from a different breaker than light/night light, then tying the neutrals together at the fan mixes the circuits. And the manufacturer probably requires GFCI protection.
2. If all are fed from one circuit, then tying all the neutrals together parallels wires that are too small to qualify.

Isn't that what I said ? Where did I go wrong ? I'll try again.

14/3 & 14/2 fan-light-night light

• both whites - neutral (or you can cut or cap off one if you wish)
• 14/3 black - light
• 14/3 red - night light
• 14/2 black - fan

14/2 & 12/3 fan-light-night light-heater

• 14/3 white - neutral for lighting
• 14/3 black - light
• 14/3 red - night light
• 12/3 neutral for fan & heater
• 12/3 black - fan
• 12/3 red for heater

Still a lot of wires to jam into a small wiring compartment. Also, I believe the NEC requires GFI protection if the unit is in the ceiling directly above the tub. The only other problem I see is if both circuits end up on opposing phases. Then you'll end up with 240 vac inside the switch box and the unit. You really should be using a 2-pole breaker in which case you would have to run a 12/3 and a 12/2 and re-identify the white in the 12/2. Not sure if that's allowed either.

Can you splice all the EGC's together or do you have heartburn with that ?

 

[Dennis Alwon]

If there is non four conductor cable readily available, I personally have no problem with running 2 two wire cables if you route them together between switch and the unit. But there are some out there that will shoot this down with some nit picky but valid codes

I agree there is no good reason to run more cables/conductors then necessary to the small junction space provided in most of those units.

With nm cable it would be compliant and running them together would eliminate electromagnetic field's or at least minimize it.

 

[kwired]

Picky: @ goldstar
1. If fan/heater originates from a different breaker than light/night light, then tying the neutrals together at the fan mixes the circuits. And the manufacturer probably requires GFCI protection.
2. If all are fed from one circuit, then tying all the neutrals together parallels wires that are too small to qualify.

With what I was suggesting you have two blacks, two whites - one of which needs re-identified for the nit-picky people, though this is one place I don't have as much issue with re-identification and have three "hots" and one neutral to the unit. Unfortunately to be compliant with NEC all EGC's need tied together and bonded to the unit enclosure even though one really gets the job done.

 

[jaylectricity]

I like 14-2 to the fan or heat, then 14-3 to the others. Usually have separate neutrals for all three anyway. That way the 2-wire can be from a separate circuit if need be. Can even be 12-2 from the GFI location if it only serves that bathroom.