Rectorseal--- RMC

[travis301]

Is it a violation of the code to apply rectorseal to the threads of rigid metal conduit? The pipe will not be used as the EGC.I was wondering if this would effect the bonding requirements of the code. We sometimes do this on outdoor installations to seal the conduit.

 

[mdshunk]

I'm not sure that using thread joint compound on buried pipe is of any benefit. The pipe will get water in it anyhow. I know we used to use something called "red lead" that was supposedly conductive to seal the threads. I've dug up old RMC that had the finished joint slathered with tar and some sort of fabric (canvas?). In any event, there's surely enough metal to metal contact, regardless of what sort of thread sealing compound you use. The sealant only fills the interstitial spaces, and obviously won't stay where the male threads touch the female grooves.

 

[RayS]

I had an inspector object to this once- said it had to be listed as suitable so it would not prevent solid bonding- told him I used NoAlox, and it was accepted.

I think it's a good idea outdoors and in washdown areas. Lubes and protects the threads.

 

[stickboy1375]

Do you use Noalox on your threaded KO fillers installed outdoors?

 

[racerdave3]

Doesn't hurt to use noalox in an application like that for the threaded ko seals. It can be used on any threads to prevent oxidation or corrosion.

 

[mdshunk]

Aparently, there are a bunch of conductive thread sealants:

http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=83944

 

[stickboy1375]

Doesn't hurt to use noalox in an application like that for the threaded ko seals. It can be used on any threads to prevent oxidation or corrosion.

My point was noalox is not a thread sealer... Any bellbox comes with instructions to use a thread sealer in a wet location...

 

[racerdave3]

I agree with you. Although gunking up the threads with noalox may impede water from enetering the threads to a point, it is not actually a sealer and should not be used as such. MDSHUNK said it best that any sealer will fill the voids but continuity will still be present from metal to metal thread contact. The bottom line remains however that we can toss out ideas around all day long, but the AHJ will have the final word in the end, and we are sure to encounter inspectors who will rant and rave about sealants on the threads.

 

[stickboy1375]

IMO, if the instructions tell you to use a thread sealer, than there is no arguing...

 

[allenwayne]

Lets see s how of hands first,would a thread sealant stop water infiltration if the box was immersed in water ????Secondly who here actually uses thread sealant on a threaded ko filler ????? I doubt I will actually see to many hands emerge from the crowd for either question.

I always have drilled a weep hole in the bottom of a bell box.Have seen all to many instances where water accumilation has corroded connections,shorted out devices.Is it UL approved NO.Does it help IMO yes.Just my 2 cents.But what do I know I`m still a rookie 30+years later

 

[stickboy1375]

Thats too bad to hear that... I always use a thread sealer, its not actually hard to install either, why on earth would a bell box be submersed in water?
That weep hole is great when every ant on earth enters the box by the way... love opening those boxes up... the reason water is accumulating is because you don't seal the threads...or don't install the gasket properly... By the way I've only been doing this for 12 years, and never had a box fill with water...

 

[Rockyd]

Crouse Hinds STL is good. However...

I've always been fond of Kopr Shield (Thomas and Betts) for spec jobs myself.​

See NEC 300.6 for more detail...



Edit - added code section

 

[flick]

I usually lose the little tubes of sealant that come with some bell boxes, and instead seal them with clear silicone. It's a little messy, but gives a good seal IMO.

John

 

[Dave58er]

I always have drilled a weep hole in the bottom of a bell box.

I was installing a pump controller outdoors the other day and happened to check the paper work. It said the box was made ready to be 3R but in order to make it 3R after install I had to drill 2 weep holes near the outside corners in the bottom of the cabinet. Had a diagram and spec sheet for the holes.

This was new to me.

 

[Dave58er]

I've always been fond of Kopr Shield (Thomas and Betts) for spec jobs myself.

My favorite too.

 

[LarryFine]

There's a vast difference between rain-tight and water-proof.

 

[RayS]

...Secondly who here actually uses thread sealant on a threaded ko filler ?????

I always have drilled a weep hole in the bottom of a bell box.Have seen all to many instances where water accumilation has corroded connections,shorted out devices.Is it UL approved NO.Does it help IMO yes.Just my 2 cents.But what do I know I`m still a rookie 30+years later

actually, I like teflon tape for the KO seals
I think the drain holes are a good idea- I've opened too many boxes that had standing water in 'em