dc and ac

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soldier6

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Location
andover ny
con you run 120 vac in the same coduit as 12 vdc the dc power is comming from a batery and they already put the conduit in the ground and pored cement on the floor of the buildings the conduit runs between so i am stuck if i cant run them together. ps just walked on the job
 
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iwire

iwire

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Location
Massachusetts
Many of us think right away of 300.3(C) and it is important. :smile: But that ends up being in addition to the other code sections.

If this happens to be 120 to an EBU and 12 VDC out to remote emergency heads it is prohibited in 700.

If it happens to be power or lighting conductors mixed with class II or class III 725 will likely prohibit it.
 
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soldier6

Member
Location
andover ny
i was wondeing what you guys thought about pulling in the dc power incased in a pice of metalic liquid tight the conduit is 3 inch and their are only 6 #12 thhn wires going through.
 
John Valdes

John Valdes

Senior Member
Location
SC.
Occupation
Retired Electrician
Wouldn't it make more sense to just use another 3 inches of sealtight? If the wire rating in temp is the same, you should be okay. I would never consider doing it. But you need to look at the articles mentioned above.
Note: If the 12 VDC is for control no, no.
Also, please use blue wire for the DC. Give the guy that comes in behind you a chance to figure out what you have done.
 
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soldier6

Member
Location
andover ny
thanks i would normaly run them in different conduits but the cement is alredy poured that is why i had to ask because i have never done it and will never do it again just because of the saftey factor but thanks for the blue wire idea
 
peter d

peter d

Senior Member
Location
New England
soldier6 said:
thanks i would normaly run them in different conduits but the cement is alredy poured that is why i had to ask because i have never done it and will never do it again just because of the saftey factor but thanks for the blue wire idea
Click to expand...

One potential solution, without knowing all the details, is instead of adding a remote head, just extend the 120 volt wiring to the location where the remote head will be, and add another 120 volt "bug eye." That may be a cheaper solution in the long run.
 
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