Split Bolt

**Cow** · 02-27-09, 08:59 PM

Originally Posted by peter d

I've said it before and will say again that I cannot for the life of me understand why anyone would still use a split bolt for anything other than bare conductors in this day and age. :confused:

I agree, I've never bought one!

Insulated taps for me....

**stickboy1375** · 02-27-09, 09:09 PM

I agree, why on earth would someone use a split bolt?

**iaov** · 02-27-09, 10:38 PM

I realy like the Polaris fittings. Never used the Kup-L-Taps. My first instincts are to be leary of anything that is insullation piercing. Perhaps someone with more experience here could asuage my fears.

**LarryFine** · 02-27-09, 11:43 PM

Originally Posted by iaov

I realy like the Polaris fittings. Never used the Kup-L-Taps. My first instincts are to be leary of anything that is insullation piercing. Perhaps someone with more experience here could asuage my fears.

If it helps any, they have break-away bolt heads, so you can't under- or over-torque them.

**quogueelectric** · 02-28-09, 12:09 AM

Originally Posted by iaov

I realy like the Polaris fittings. Never used the Kup-L-Taps. My first instincts are to be leary of anything that is insullation piercing. Perhaps someone with more experience here could asuage my fears.

I have used them many times and as you are I am very leary of them so I have a tendancy to install a bit more analy than other methods. My bosses had me install them and they have never failed to my knowledge as of yet. Polaris is my first choice then splitbolt then whatever my personal preference.

**daleuger** · 02-28-09, 02:39 AM

Originally Posted by iaov

I realy like the Polaris fittings. Never used the Kup-L-Taps. My first instincts are to be leary of anything that is insullation piercing. Perhaps someone with more experience here could asuage my fears.

Haven't ya ever used those screw on caps for temporary lights?

**iwire** · 02-28-09, 05:18 AM

Originally Posted by LarryFine

I don't believe using a device rated for this use qualifies as "working hot" any more than touching the insulation of an energized conductor.

I don't know if you've ever seen or used one of these, but you'd have to go out of your way to try to make contact with any energized parts.

I still do not believe they are designed for hot installation.

Regardless of being hard to make contact with live parts you would be in for a world of burns if you clamped into a faulted conductor.

**LarryFine** · 03-01-09, 12:15 AM

Originally Posted by iwire

I still do not believe they are designed for hot installation.

It says they are on the page to which I linked, as long as there is no load.

Regardless of being hard to make contact with live parts you would be in for a world of burns if you clamped into a faulted conductor.

That conductor would already be the energized one; it would be the tap conductor I just installed that could be the faulted one.

However, I always use my K-60 to check each of my new conductors against an energized conductor first, for just that reason.

In fact, I do the same thing the first time I energize any new circuit or conductors.

**e57** · 03-01-09, 02:48 AM

The Type KS-3 accommodates 3 maximum size conductors.

(Page 4)
Apparently not UL or CSA listed?????

As for insulation piercing (I use the burndy version on page 36.) there is a time and place for them. I wouldn't use them in a gutter - but use them on OH service conductors all the time. Local POCO considers any splice they did not do temporary - so why waste time? (Although they often take a year to come out to re-splice)

Gutters or cans I use Polaris.