Marina/Pier Advice

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cycotcskir

Senior Member
I will be wiring a Pier with 4 boat lifts, lighting, general use rec's, and 3 shore power rec's. The water is brackish bay water, but still pretty corrosive.

This will be my first pier. I am hoping someone out there has some good experience with piers and can give me some good advice regarding materials best wiring methods (stringers are on the inside of the piles), and/or other possible pitfalls to look out for.

This pier is about 8" above avg high tide and the Datum plane is at about 2-3" below the very top of the piles. This could be a problem for supporting so I am considering pedestal mounted shore power and possibly a sistered piece of wood for GP rec's.

I have a few other ideas stirring around my head, but specific experience is worth it's weight in gold.

Thanks, in advance, for any ideas.
 

lakee911

Senior Member
Location
Columbus, OH
PVC or stainless conduit, lots of anti-corrosion compounds on electrical joints, GFCI receptacles (with weather proof in use covers), NEMA 4X enclosures...

That kind of stuff?
 

cycotcskir

Senior Member
PVC or stainless conduit, lots of anti-corrosion compounds on electrical joints, GFCI receptacles (with weather proof in use covers), NEMA 4X enclosures...

That kind of stuff?

Well, yes... and no.

I plan on using a 4X enclosure, probably Stainless. GFCI's, of course. Anti-corrosive compound - yup.



Stainless conduit is a bit much for the conduit, but I'm not sure what the "best practices" are (within reason, of course).

Submersible multiconductor cabling comes to mind - flexible and easy to hide, but not very pretty where exposed (sleeves, maybe).

PVC - partially easy to hide, tough to navigate corners and not be a major eye-sore.

LFNMC - Flexible, wire replacement, and no joints are good, but turns are still a bit wide and it's ugly.


Transitioning from below pier to above pier is another concern. I don't want it to be ugly if I can help it. (this is where the pedestal idea comes in)

What are the latest good options for lighting such as pole lights and footpath lighting (Should be fully submersible due to Datum Plane location)


OTOH:
555.9 Electrical Connections. Electrical connections shall
be located at least 305 mm (12 in.) above the deck of a
floating pier. Conductor splices, within approved junction
boxes, utilizing sealed wire connector systems listed and
identified for submersion shall be permitted where located
above the waterline but below the electrical datum field for
floating piers
.

Emphasis is mine. This is not a floating pier, so this rules them out... (haven't found an exception yet, don't think there is, though.)

In any case, are there any suggestions or preferences with regards to pole lighting installations. Maybe one product looks good but is actually trashy for reasons x,y, and z.
 

hardworkingstiff

Senior Member
Location
Wilmington, NC

augie47

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Tennessee
Occupation
State Electrical Inspector (Retired)
I'm a big fan of type W cable.

Check out this for your light bollard: http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/Markets/Electrical/Products/MarinaPowerProducts/Mariner/index.htm

Check out this for the power: http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/Marke...rinaPowerProducts/NewportHarborMate/index.htm

Marina Power & Light makes good stuff.

If you want to talk about this type of work, send me a PM with a phone number and I'll call you (I don't feel like typing pages and pages).

midwest also has some applicable products
http://www.midwestelectric.com/product/mes.htm
keep in mind DOCKS MOVE!:)

I suggest taking Lou up on his kind offer
 

charlietuna

Senior Member
Everything you can out of PVC--305 stainless marine grade fasteners -- stainless all thread --- marine rated pedistals with sealed bottoms --- anything you can't buy "marine rated" install inside PVC enclosures with gasketed covers and stainless hardware.
 

cadpoint

Senior Member
Location
Durham, NC
Just a thought:

What is in the water might be a big deciding factor of what you want to intsall, I believe its worth knowing over-all.

Granted you can't beat SS for the install.

Call ahead and around for a water testing /analyzing service, ask them how they want their sample to be drawn, incoming tide verses outgoing might be consideration, if that's even involved.

I have no idea of the price involved. Water must be tested with in twenty four hours to get the correct reading on any sample, that is a fact.
 

cycotcskir

Senior Member
Thanks for the suggestions. I think I will take lou up on his offer. In a rush to get to some inspections right now, though. I will look at the links and PM later.

Chris
 
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