Above ground pool issues

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mark32

Senior Member
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Currently in NJ
A friend of a friend asked me to look at their newly installed pool pump, which replaced an older one. Turns out that the breaker was tripped but here are my concerns:

1. This was initially hardwired (120v) and controlled by a nearby switch. The switch is located 3' from the pool. The switch is in a metal outdoor rated box that's threaded onto RMC sticking up out of the ground.

2. The pump has a #8 bonded to it but I'm unsure if it is bonded to the pool. The pool in question replaced the original one, of which the owner doesn't recall the replacement ever being inspected. I tried reading continuity between the pump and a couple of screws that seemed to hold pieces of the pool together. The meter sounded like it was reading something but it wasn't very distinctive. There's also a metallic platform with a ladder that one would use to enter the pool.

So what to do to make this thing right? I was thinking about suggesting installing a barrier between the switch and pool because, again, it's only 3' away. (Does the pump itself need to be behind this barrier?) Also, what could be used as a barrier? Swap out the breaker for a GFCI breaker and hard wire the pump to the switch. As far as the bond goes I'm rather stumped. Should I just install a few lugs around the pool and on the platform and split bolt it to the bond coming off the pump? In addition, where on an above ground pool can a lug be installed? I didn't see anything conductive aside from the thin metal coping that surrounds the top of the pool.
 

mark32

Senior Member
Location
Currently in NJ
Hi Dennis, I don't believe it is. The pump has a plate on it that says not to be used with storable pools, although that doesn't conclude this isn't a storable pool. How would I know if it's a storable type? Just looking at it I can't imagine someone would break it down and put it back up every year. The filter and all looks like a permanent install to me.
 

raider1

Senior Member
Staff member
Location
Logan, Utah
Here is the definition of Storable pool.

Storable Swimming, Wading, or Immersion Pool. Those that are constructed on or above the ground and are capable of holding water to a maximum depth of 1.0 m (42 in.), or a pool with nonmetallic, molded polymeric walls or inflatable fabric walls regardless of dimension.

Chris
 

mark32

Senior Member
Location
Currently in NJ
Ok, if it is a storable the motor looks like it would have to be replaced, if not, I need to do a couple of things I mentioned above. If the latter is the case, can anyone give me some advice on how to proceed? I would probably need a perimeter bond as well yes?
 

Dennis Alwon

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Chapel Hill, NC
Occupation
Retired Electrical Contractor
If this is not a storable pool then you must have an equipotential bond for the pool. You really need to read 680.26 and then ask specific questions. Read it slowly as it is alot to absorb.
 

mark32

Senior Member
Location
Currently in NJ
Hello again Dennis,

Actually I thought I was rather specific in my inquires. The existing switch is too close to the pool and installing a barrier seems to be easier than moving the underground RMC that's now supporting the switch box. My main question here is has anyone installed such a barrier and what did they use. The pump has a bond attached to it but I have no idea as to where it goes, thus I figured I would just run a new bond around the pool in accordance with 680.26(B)(2) and tap off it once, as I believe this pool's shell is nonconductive, and bond that to the pool, but where do I install a lug on this pool is my question here. The only conductive thing on this pool seems to be the metal coping that's laid on top of the pool's upper edge. Do I just bolt a lug to that?
 

Dennis Alwon

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Chapel Hill, NC
Occupation
Retired Electrical Contractor
Mark, if the pool is not conductive then you do not need to bond it. Any rebar or mesh that may be associated with the pool concrete must be bonded. This bond or epb just encircles the tub, if there is nothing to bond to and then ties to the motor lug.

I never built a wall aound a switch but it seems like a lot of work. Theoretically the disconnect must be 5' from the pool. If you move the disconnect and leave the existing switch box as a jb, it appears you can bond the old box and be good to go. 680.26(B)(7).

You still need to bond the water.
 

mark32

Senior Member
Location
Currently in NJ
Thank you Dennis for your help.

As far as the wall goes, I was thinking they, the home owner, could just slap a wooden or pvc fence between the switch and pool. There is already a fence surrounding the pool, of course, and it's only about five foot away so they could just come off the existing fence and run perpendicular from there and in between the sw and pool, but I think I like your idea of turning the sw location into a j-box better :) There is no concrete associated with this pool by the way. 680.26(B)(2), states "For non-conductive pool shells, bonding at four points shall not be required" so does that mean it doesn't need to be bonded at all like you say or that it can be bonded less than four times? Bonding the water, how would I accomplish this again? Thanks D
 

Dennis Alwon

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Chapel Hill, NC
Occupation
Retired Electrical Contractor
Bonding the water, how would I accomplish this again? Thanks D

You can install a gadget that is designed for the purpose. Do a search on google. Often times one just inserts a short piece of metal piping in line with the plastic stuff and be done with it. There must be at least 9 in square in contact with the water.

Here is one . Here is the site

bonder4.jpg
 
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