water heater anode is corroding

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hardworkingstiff

Senior Member
Location
Wilmington, NC
I'd try to isolate all the grounding to the water system and then check for a DC voltage between the water system and the grounding system. If you find a voltage, look for the source.
 

cadpoint

Senior Member
Location
Durham, NC
Tap the tank water before a cleaning! Draw some water from the cold water line ahead of H2O heater, if possible. This is the only way to know what's in the water.

It was probably a tank built on Frinday or Monday that got by the QA process! MBG...
 

billsnuff

Senior Member
try this...........

try this...........

RUSTY AND DISCOLORED WATER

Water heaters and storage tanks are often blamed for rusty or discolored water. In fact, it is very unusual for today's high quality glass lined tanks to have a lining failure significant enough to allow water to contact enough bare metal to discolor the contents of even a small tank.

The most common cause of rusty water is iron reducing bacteria called Leptothrix. Iron bacteria are commonly found in soil, water wells, water treatment plants and water distribution piping systems where soluble iron exceeds 0.2 parts per million. Higher levels make conditions even more favorable. Soluble iron in the water provides food for the bacteria. Rusty or discolored water is the result of a bacterial feeding process. Laundry, tableware, and plumbing fixtures can be stained if the condition is left unchecked. The affected water can be red or brown, and may have a black sediment.

Heaters and tanks with iron bacteria usually require new anode rods as presence of iron bacteria causes premature anode failure.

SOLUTION

Chlorinate the water heater or tank. Heaters and tanks with extended iron bacteria infestation may require more than one treatment. A chlorine feeder may be the only permanent solution to repeated iron or sulfur bacteria infestation.

CHLORINATING WATER HEATERS AND STORAGE TANKS

1. Turn off gas or electric supply to water heater.

2. Turn off cold water supply valve to water heater or tank.

3. Open a nearby hot water faucet to allow air into the system. This will break the vacuum and allow the heater or tank to drain.

4. Drain all water from heater or tank. (A hose attached to the drain valve may be needed to direct water to a nearby drain.)

5. Remove anode rod(s) and close drain valve.

6. Using a funnel placed in the anode rod opening pour in one gallon of household chorine bleach (i.e., Clorox or Purex) for every 25 gallons of tank capacity. Note: For commercial systems using large diameter pipe and long hot water loops, estimate water volume and add additional chlorine at the same one gallon to 25 gallons ratio.

7. Reinstall anode rod(s) after inspecting and replacing as needed.

8. Open cold water supply valve and refill system with water. Draw chlorine soution into hot water system piping by bleeding water at each faucet just until the chlorine solution can be smelled. Operate dishwashers and clotheswashers just until chlorine is smelled in those appliances. It is important to chlorinate all hot water lines.

9. Leave chlorine solution undisturbed in the hot water heating system one hour or more.

10. After contact time has been allowed, drain chlorine solution in tank according to steps #2, #3, and #4. Continue to flush tank if water is discolored or has chlorine odor.

11. Close drain valve and refill tank. Allow tank to sit for 15 minutes. Repeat step #2, #3, and #4. Continue to flush tank if water is discolored or has chlorine odor.

12. Close drain valve and refill tank. Flush all chlorine from piping by running hot water faucets until no chlorine odor is detected. Operate dishwashers and clotheswashers empty for one complete cycle.

13. Return hot water heating system to duty by following recommended start-up procedure posted on heater or in service manual.

from here......http://www.stopleaks.com/waterh.htm
 

jmd445

Senior Member
I believe it was stated the the Hot, cold and gas were bonded and then connected to the main panel.

I would use a DC clamp-on on this wire and see what is happening. Or, open the circuit (bond from HWH to panel) at the main panel and insert an amp meter in series, then a volt meter in series and see what you read.

Jim
 

steve66

Senior Member
Location
Illinois
Occupation
Engineer
Off the subject but the OP said that gas pipes were bonded. Isn't that a violation?

Nope... it's a requirement. 250.104(B)

Pete

As Pete mentioned, bonding the gas pipes is required. However, using the gas pipe as a grounding electrode is prohibited.

Exactly how you bond a gas pipe without it becoming an electrode esacpes me. Is there an insulator on the pipe before it exits the house and goes underground? Or maybe it has to do with the size of the bonding wire, or where it terminates at?

Sorry - not trying to hijack the thread, but I have always wondered about that.

Steve
 

Electron_Sam78

Senior Member
Location
Palm Bay, FL
However, using the gas pipe as a grounding electrode is prohibited.

Yeah that's what I was thinking of.

Exactly how you bond a gas pipe without it becoming an electrode esacpes me. Is there an insulator on the pipe before it exits the house and goes underground? Or maybe it has to do with the size of the bonding wire, or where it terminates at? Sorry - not trying to hijack the thread, but I have always wondered about that.

Yeah, hmmmm. I guess the differentiating factor is if the bonding conductor is sized using T250.66 or T250.122 :roll: Seems like a conflict
 

cowboyjwc

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Simi Valley, CA
There can't be any current flowing from the pipes to the heater as he stated that there were dielectric fittings installed.

I would bet it's the water.

Copper pipe or galvinized?
 
Last edited:

kwired

Electron manager
Location
NE Nebraska
There can't be any current flowing from the pipes to the heater as he stated that there were dielectric fittings installed.

I would bet it's the water.

Copper pipe or galvinized?


If it is the water only and on a municipal system the neighbors should all have the same problem - they are receiving water from the same source.
 

Jim W in Tampa

Senior Member
Location
Tampa Florida
If it is the water only and on a municipal system the neighbors should all have the same problem - they are receiving water from the same source.

Maybe he is buying reconditioned water
Been told some places have awful city water
Am glad i am on a well and septic. My water after softner is just as good as city and cost next to nothing.
 

acrwc10

Master Code Professional
Location
CA
Occupation
Building inspector
Maybe he is buying reconditioned water
Been told some places have awful city water
Am glad i am on a well and septic. My water after softner is just as good as city and cost next to nothing.

I hope that isn't a combo unit. :grin:
 

tom baker

First Chief Moderator
Staff member
Contact the water company and ask for a copy of their water quality confidence report. its required by the EPA, and will list all the chemical properties of the water. What you want to look at is the pH. Some water sources tends to be aggressive and will leach out lead and copper if it has a low pH. Our water has a pH of 7.5 so its treated with sodium hydroxide to raise the pH to 8.5

with dielectric fittings its not a grounding issue but that gets blamed a lot.
 
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