When doing cord drops I have a specific way I do them, first I use a hook into a structure member or a beam clamp that is strong, with a hook, I always use a twist-loc receptacle at the top to keep it plugged in so vibrations wont let it fall out, and this also keeps them from removing them to be used as an extension cord and then loosing it, it also allow a quick way for them to remove the cord if a work station is relocated or done away with, the last place I made up 3 extra cords encase one was damaged.
Using a loop basket at the top installed about a foot from the T-L plug on the end, the cord I use is extra hard usage type with the strain fibers in it, for the bottom I use a malleable iron two gain box with a single hub (required by 314.23(H)(1) (I think) with a kellums grip to attach the cord to the hub, with a malleable two gain GFCI/duplex cover. all but about indestructible.
The trucking company garage I did a few years ago had a fork truck hang up on one of the receptacle box's and they said it lifted it off the floor about 6" but didn't even damage the drop, the hook at the top was bolted into a truss, but even then I was surprised that nothing gave or broke free, been using this method for a few years and yet to have one fail.
I would say if you are going to just use ty-raps then don't use a locking receptacle as if it ever gets pulled out you will want the receptacle to be able to be pulled free with out doing damage, I have never direct wired them into a box since it can do allot of damage if they get yanked on or catches on moving machinery, and might be an advantage to allow them to pull free if they can be caught on moving machinery, I'm sure if the above fork lift was much bigger it could have broke that truss the hook was mounted to, but luckily it lifted the fork lift instead, something larger might have brought the roof down, so a break free install might be a good idea?