mark32
Senior Member
- Location
- Currently in NJ
Some of these photos represent threads I have recently started. In the first pic you see the main panel with the ats next to it. For those not familiar with generac stand by's, the ats comes with a 30' FMC whip that exits the top of the ats and runs out to the generator, which I had to extend. In addition there is a 2' LFMC that exits the side of the ats, which I had to shorten. Both of these modifications increased my time and materials considerably. The ats is completely wired from the factory so I had to pull out the conductors running from the ats to the main panel. I at first pulled them back in all together but the conductors looked terribly bunched up so I removed them and repulled them back in one pair at a time. In addition, if look closely at the top of the interior of the ats you'll see where the two egc's are terminated. Initially there were o-ring crimps on both but I had to replace one of the egc's with my own. (From the factory there is an inverted cup with four somewhat pointy tips that I assume bite through the enclosure's paint when tightened) I do not own a crimper that is capable of crimping a lug onto #8 so I used a garden variety lug and screwed it back in place along with the original one.
The next pic shows 1" emt exiting the ats, I struggled with what to use here. PVC or FMC crossed my mind first but settled on EMT due to the fact I don't own a hot box and figured the FMC would look crappy. I couldn't bend the emt in the basement, there wasn't enough room, so I had to run outside each time to make a bend or cut. Looking at the photo now I see I hadn't put a strap on the pipe as it crossed under the floor joist, I could have sworn I did, next time I'm there I'll throw one on it.
The 3rd pic is the oversized "C" I had started a thread about.
The 4th pic is the first of three splice boxes. The FMC exiting the left side of the 8x8 is the whip I removed from the ats. Do you like the $11 a piece Burndy's? This was the first time using them, they're pretty sweet, I also started a thread about retorquing, this is where that idea came from. (According to the Burndy website these have a wire range from 14-4 and the torque spec is 45 in-lbs. I couldn't believe had I been using #12 it is suggested I torque it to 45 in-lbs so I contacted Burndy. I asked what the torque spec would be for smaller gauges, for the hell of it, and the reply was something like, "The engineer says the spec is based on the set screw size and not the wire size". Huh? Every breaker, lug, ground bar I've ever seen had different specs for different wire sizes, just doesn't sound right to me) Although you can't see it in the pic, I bonded this box with a lay-in lug and then threw a big blue on the two #8 egc's. The only thing that concerned me with the inspector here was the control conductors I had pulled. One of those black #18 tffn's is a neutral but the supply houses don't cut the stuff so I had to either buy a 500' spool of it or just wrap some white tape around it, which as you can see that's what I did.
The 5th pic, here you see the other end of the 30' FMC entering the back of an outdoor rated 8x8. I really wanted to use those little insulated crimp caps on the control wires but I couldn't find them. Notice the double lug I used to bond this box.
The 6th pic is to show the aforementioned box and part of the factory supplied box mounted on that 6x4 post. A thread was also started about this section as I was contemplating just stringing a whip from one box to the other instead of going underground, but that was before I decided on moving the splice box to the location you now see it in. It was to be mounted a number of feet to the right bringing it closer to the gen.
The final pic shows the interior of the factory box. Originally there was an insulated block mounted to the back of this box. This block had three threaded posts that allowed you to run a nut down on top of the conductors which had o-ring type crimps on them. As you can see I removed all of it, would have been nice to use that block but again I don't have a crimper to do such work. I've looked online for such a crimper but I can't figure out which I would get, there's so many of them. Once again I had to use an addition lug to bond the eg. So what do you think, any and all critics are welcome. By the way, the ats is level but for some reason it appears that it's a bit crooked, it's an optical illusion rest assured ~
The next pic shows 1" emt exiting the ats, I struggled with what to use here. PVC or FMC crossed my mind first but settled on EMT due to the fact I don't own a hot box and figured the FMC would look crappy. I couldn't bend the emt in the basement, there wasn't enough room, so I had to run outside each time to make a bend or cut. Looking at the photo now I see I hadn't put a strap on the pipe as it crossed under the floor joist, I could have sworn I did, next time I'm there I'll throw one on it.
The 3rd pic is the oversized "C" I had started a thread about.
The 4th pic is the first of three splice boxes. The FMC exiting the left side of the 8x8 is the whip I removed from the ats. Do you like the $11 a piece Burndy's? This was the first time using them, they're pretty sweet, I also started a thread about retorquing, this is where that idea came from. (According to the Burndy website these have a wire range from 14-4 and the torque spec is 45 in-lbs. I couldn't believe had I been using #12 it is suggested I torque it to 45 in-lbs so I contacted Burndy. I asked what the torque spec would be for smaller gauges, for the hell of it, and the reply was something like, "The engineer says the spec is based on the set screw size and not the wire size". Huh? Every breaker, lug, ground bar I've ever seen had different specs for different wire sizes, just doesn't sound right to me) Although you can't see it in the pic, I bonded this box with a lay-in lug and then threw a big blue on the two #8 egc's. The only thing that concerned me with the inspector here was the control conductors I had pulled. One of those black #18 tffn's is a neutral but the supply houses don't cut the stuff so I had to either buy a 500' spool of it or just wrap some white tape around it, which as you can see that's what I did.
The 5th pic, here you see the other end of the 30' FMC entering the back of an outdoor rated 8x8. I really wanted to use those little insulated crimp caps on the control wires but I couldn't find them. Notice the double lug I used to bond this box.
The 6th pic is to show the aforementioned box and part of the factory supplied box mounted on that 6x4 post. A thread was also started about this section as I was contemplating just stringing a whip from one box to the other instead of going underground, but that was before I decided on moving the splice box to the location you now see it in. It was to be mounted a number of feet to the right bringing it closer to the gen.
The final pic shows the interior of the factory box. Originally there was an insulated block mounted to the back of this box. This block had three threaded posts that allowed you to run a nut down on top of the conductors which had o-ring type crimps on them. As you can see I removed all of it, would have been nice to use that block but again I don't have a crimper to do such work. I've looked online for such a crimper but I can't figure out which I would get, there's so many of them. Once again I had to use an addition lug to bond the eg. So what do you think, any and all critics are welcome. By the way, the ats is level but for some reason it appears that it's a bit crooked, it's an optical illusion rest assured ~
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