Chinese pipe hickey for GRC....

Status
Not open for further replies.

Fulthrotl

~Autocorrect is My Worst Enema.~

sigh.
the term dates before everything in the world was made in china.
and before everything was in something other than GRC

a chinese pipe hickey is a steel mandrel that is about 8" long,
and has the end turned down to just slde in a GRC about 4".
then it has at the shoulder a tapered pipe thread to accept
a GRC coupling. you spin a coupling on it, and slide it into
a ridgid conduit that needs moving, and you have a solid
bar to put the hickey on, so you don't collapse the pipe and
deform the threads. it's great for scooching over a pipe
that needs scooching... i had a set i made for 1/2"~1",
but they disappeared when i had a trailer stolen a few
years back.

and i know where i can find them now.... in my brother's
garage, on the table right next to his lathe, after i make them.
it's just a pain to have to turn tapered threads on his lathe,
but i'll just turn a bar down with two shoulders, one the
ID of a coupling, and the second shoulder the ID of the
conduit, and it will just slip on...
 

hillbilly1

Senior Member
Location
North Georgia mountains
Occupation
Owner/electrical contractor
sigh.
the term dates before everything in the world was made in china.
and before everything was in something other than GRC

a chinese pipe hickey is a steel mandrel that is about 8" long,
and has the end turned down to just slde in a GRC about 4".
then it has at the shoulder a tapered pipe thread to accept
a GRC coupling. you spin a coupling on it, and slide it into
a ridgid conduit that needs moving, and you have a solid
bar to put the hickey on, so you don't collapse the pipe and
deform the threads. it's great for scooching over a pipe
that needs scooching... i had a set i made for 1/2"~1",
but they disappeared when i had a trailer stolen a few
years back.

and i know where i can find them now.... in my brother's
garage, on the table right next to his lathe, after i make them.
it's just a pain to have to turn tapered threads on his lathe,
but i'll just turn a bar down with two shoulders, one the
ID of a coupling, and the second shoulder the ID of the
conduit, and it will just slip on...

At the rate were borrowing money from China, "Made in China" will be made here..........
 

Fulthrotl

~Autocorrect is My Worst Enema.~
What an interesting way to bend pipe .... I'd love to have those for adjusting stub-ups.

that's what it's used for.... i now am the proud owner of a 3' long bar of 1 1/4" cold rolled steel, with the plan for some quick
machine work.

i'll have some stub ups to snoodle.

IMG_0302.jpg


IMG_0338.jpg


IMG_0317.jpg


IMG_0303.jpg
 

WIMaster

Senior Member
Location
Wisconsin
I'm going to go out on a limb and bet the stubb ups are RMC or IMC, but they are connected to PVC below grade.

I do have to ask what is with the ?tape? on them?
 
Last edited:

Fulthrotl

~Autocorrect is My Worst Enema.~
I'm going to go out on a limb and bet the stubb ups are RMC or IMC, but they are connected to PVC below grade.

I do have to ask what is with the ?tape? on them?

GRC yard ells, with 20 mil scotchwrap corrosion protection tape.
schedule 40 pvc in the slab. coupling, pipe piug, and string
already in the pipe.... 12' coiled up at each end, tucked inside.
 

elecold

Member
Randy, I don't know if everyone caught this the first time around, but really, with that pencil in there for scale, you do amazing work!

Is that pencil some kind of photo crop? Or did you have a gigantic pencil. Lol

Fulthrotl, beautiful work bro. :thumbsup:
 

cadpoint

Senior Member
Location
Durham, NC
Nice work.

I've seen a home made one made out of a threaded elbow fitting. A little less than ninety degrees was removed but the cut was made
about thirty degrees off of top dead center, So if you layed it on the full side the insert or open face is ready to receive a piece of conduit.

But this was for a hand bender to bendiing service conductor's.

Don't know if this helps....
 

Cow

Senior Member
Location
Eastern Oregon
Occupation
Electrician
Hey Randy I'll tell you a trick we use for floor boxes. Maybe it's something you'd like to try, maybe your method works good enough.

We build a small concrete form out of 2x4's nailed together. Generally around 18x18 or so, not too big, they get heavy!! Build as many as you want or need. Throw them out where the next pour is and have the concrete guys/brickies fill 'em with leftover mud or grout when they're finished with a pour. Screed them off with a board, don't have to be smooth. Use a handtruck/whatever and haul them around the site where you need 'em. Lay them on the ground, shoot them with a laser and then rotohammer long 1/4" wedge anchors into them. Adjust floor boxes up/down with double nuts on the wedge anchors. Works great. Almost impossible to end up with shallow/proud floor boxes with such a solid base.

Great looking underground too! I like the pipe hoop over the top of the conduits for keeping them even. What we'll do is anchor the strut like you've done with 3/4" rigid but leave the pipe stakes standing proud at each end of the strut. Tie a string from one stake to the other over the tops of the stubups. Then simply butt the stubups up to the string, no measuring.
 

Fulthrotl

~Autocorrect is My Worst Enema.~
Hey Randy I'll tell you a trick we use for floor boxes. Maybe it's something you'd like to try, maybe your method works good enough.

We build a small concrete form out of 2x4's nailed together. Generally around 18x18 or so, not too big, they get heavy!! Build as many as you want or need. Throw them out where the next pour is and have the concrete guys/brickies fill 'em with leftover mud or grout when they're finished with a pour. Screed them off with a board, don't have to be smooth. Use a handtruck/whatever and haul them around the site where you need 'em. Lay them on the ground, shoot them with a laser and then rotohammer long 1/4" wedge anchors into them. Adjust floor boxes up/down with double nuts on the wedge anchors. Works great. Almost impossible to end up with shallow/proud floor boxes with such a solid base.

Great looking underground too! I like the pipe hoop over the top of the conduits for keeping them even. What we'll do is anchor the strut like you've done with 3/4" rigid but leave the pipe stakes standing proud at each end of the strut. Tie a string from one stake to the other over the tops of the stubups. Then simply butt the stubups up to the string, no measuring.

actually, the emt hoop is a backbone for lacing up the data cables... about 200 of them.

never tried the paperweights, i have a bunch of 12 and 14 guage mild steel. i pop four 1/2" holes in them, and tek screw the floorboxes down to it... then
i spread them out, and nail them with 2' stakes of emt, then shoot them with a laser, and mark the emt, etc.

the good thing is i can carry a dozen of them... :happyyes: but i like the paperweight idea.....
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top