About to change a pannel from fuse to circuit breakers. Some of the wire will be too short. Is it acceptibul to use a but splice inside the newly installed pannel board
About to change a pannel from fuse to circuit breakers. Some of the wire will be too short. Is it acceptibul to use a but splice inside the newly installed pannel board
IMO a properly installed wirenut is a better connection.
As far as I know, most crimped connectors are only rated for stranded wire, so I think that would be the main problem if you were working in a panel with solid wires.
Are your terminals, splices, and disconnects listed for stranded and solid wire?
You can use both stranded or solid wire on our insulated rings and forks from #26AWG up to #10AWG, our non-insulated rings and forks from #22AWG up to #8AWG, and splices up to #10AWG. Our disconnects are for stranded wire only.
As far as I know they are rated for both solid and stranded.
Here is what Thomas and Betts says,
Wire stranding ? Unless clearly marked "Solid,""SOL,""Stranded" or "STR" for a given wire size, wire range or wire combination, conductors in the range 30-10 AWG are both solid and stranded, and 8 AWG and larger are for stranded wire only. Connectors additionally rated for metric conductor sizes may be marked with the letter "r" for rigid solid and rigid stranded conductors, or the letter "f" for flexible conductors.
Use of specific tools ? A specific tool and die used to assemble a wire connector to a conductor is identified on the connector, or on or within the unit container of the connector. The identification consists of a catalog or type designation, color-coding, die index number, or equivalent means. Color-coding of the crimp barrel is common.
I don't think I have ever seen instructions for crimp connectors for conductors #10 and smaller that specified the use of a ratcheting type crimper.the typical problem with butt splices is the same problem with crimped on terminals of all kinds. people refuse to use the proper ratcheting type tool and use a plier type tool instead because it is "faster" and they have always done it this way. they either crimp it too hard or not hard enough and it works loose. then they blame this on the connector rather than poor workmanship.
I don't think I have ever seen instructions for crimp connectors for conductors #10 and smaller that specified the use of a ratcheting type crimper.
They do say that a controlled crimp tool is preferred but they stop short of saying my must use that type of too. The list of recommended crimping tools for most of the terminals for #10 and smaller wire list the plier type tool as one of the recommended tools. The use of any of the recommended tools will result in a crimp that is complaint with the UL listing.Crimps most Panduit #22 ? 10 AWG insulated and non-insulated terminals.