Which is the better Loadtester?

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Which is the better Loadtester?

  • Extech CT80

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Mastech MS5908

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Other

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    2
  • Poll closed .
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I will use it for mostly residential applications. I would like to easily be able to check the voltage drop under load at various receptacle outlets in homes. GFCI and AFCI test features would be nice as well(I am clear that the only recognized test is the test button).
I have been looking at the following:
Extech CT80
IDEAL 61-165
Insp-3
Mastech MS5908


Some of them look cheap, and some look very difficult to perform multiple tests.
 

Fulthrotl

~Autocorrect is My Worst Enema.~
I will use it for mostly residential applications. I would like to easily be able to check the voltage drop under load at various receptacle outlets in homes. GFCI and AFCI test features would be nice as well(I am clear that the only recognized test is the test button).
I have been looking at the following:
Extech CT80
IDEAL 61-165
Insp-3
Mastech MS5908


Some of them look cheap, and some look very difficult to perform multiple tests.

i've got the ideal, it works well...
if you buy it, there is a firmware update that was added.
it allows you to estimate the load being pulled on a
branch circuit, by just plugging into it at any point on
the circuit.

make sure your's will do that. the one i bought had been
sitting on the shelf, and had older firmware, and wouldn't
do that. :weeping:
 

PetrosA

Senior Member
I have an INSP-3 and have been pretty well satisfied with it. I have never done any actual comparison to real loads and how they affect voltage nor have I checked the actual loads mine uses to test with, but that might be a good idea at some point. Some things which I've noticed will affect the readings:

Age of receptacle - worn or dirty contacts will show a larger amount of voltage drop

Backstabbing - this will show a larger voltage drop

Grade of receptacle - a Hubbell or Spec Grade receptacle will show a better reading than a cheap "contractor" grade receptacle, even if it's much older than the cheaper receptacle

Number of receptacles/splices in the circuit - each splice or receptacle in the circuit, even if it's close by like with a quad setup in a two gang box will show a lower reading the further you are from the feed

Even a typical kitchen circuit tested at the first outlet will usually fail the 20A test because of distance from the panel with my INSP-3. In that sense I think a tester that would do 1.44 kW and 1.8 kW (nominal, max allowed by code) tests instead of 15A and 20A tests would be more useful. The workaround with the INSP-3 is to use the 10A (1.2 kW) for 15A circuits and the 15 A (1.8 kW) test for 20A circuits.

YMMV
 

GoldDigger

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Placerville, CA, USA
Occupation
Retired PV System Designer
Thanks for taking the time to answer. That was very helpful.

FWIW, there may be times (e.g. thermal imaging ba k along the circuit) when you will want to have a real continuous load and not just the pulsed load that one of these testers will give you. You can either buy one of those or make one out of light bulbs or heaters.
 

Fulthrotl

~Autocorrect is My Worst Enema.~
FWIW, there may be times (e.g. thermal imaging ba k along the circuit) when you will want to have a real continuous load and not just the pulsed load that one of these testers will give you. You can either buy one of those or make one out of light bulbs or heaters.

i have a heat shrink gun that works well for that....

now all i need is the thermal imaging camera....
flir just came out with new ones.... pretty spiffy.
pretty expensive as well...
the one that looks good for me would be $6k.
still too steep....
 

cadpoint

Senior Member
Location
Durham, NC
Sears sells an inexpesive Amp donut that one could use and has plugs at both ends, but it's only hot and neutral
and only 15 AMP rated.

I've thought about the Ideal, but never felt the need.
 

RLyons

Senior Member
Not terribly impressed with my insp-3
from another post:
I had to have mine replaced after hitting the AFCI test one to many times on a GFCI circuit :slaphead:....no smoke though it did indicate on the screen it needed to be repaired. I don't know how much I trust this thing as you plug it in and it says it fails voltage drop then you unplug it and plug it in again and it passes. On GFCI circuits you are suppose to hit the GFCI test button before plugging it in so it gives you polarity and voltage drop then instructing you to "hit GFCI" to test. Allot of the times it just trips the GFCI and doesn't give me the polarity and voltage drop. Another weird thing I came across was a GFI recept that didn't trip when I hit the test button or when using a plug tester the isp3 tripped it and said the gfi was working properly.
 
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