MRI manufacturers may well go overboard on some items, based on earlier generation machines (or even contradict the NEC, as with language about independent ground rods), but in general you cannot go wrong by following their instructions, while not asking could lead to major grief.
And one problem with providing straight 60 Hz., 120V AC is that the filament won't last long because it will vibrate due to the 60 Hz. being applied in the presence of a strong magnetic field.
I went this route in a garage I am building. I was able to get the 4' T8 LED lamps for around $16 CDN per bulb. So for each fixture- $32 for bulbs and $50 for a cheapo fixture puts me under $100 a fixture which is decent for LED.
There are a few options you can go if you decide to go this route. Some of the LED lights have the option of running off the existing ballast (which nullifies the energy efficiency offered by the LED somewhat because of losses in ballast) or you can get LED's that require you to remove the ballast and wire tombstones directly to 120. Some of the LED tubes allow you to rotate the end pins to aim the tubes in certain directions as well.
The market has been flooded with LED products, so depending where you buy from make sure you still have the UL certifications.
Last one we did the Architect said NO to LED. He's done about 30 MRI rooms. We installed EFI/RF filters for all the lights. These were 65R30. All were located away from the magnet.
Interesting work if you can get an MRI room.
MIL spec, medical grade or laboratory apparatus accessories cost many times more because of lower volume, different sales network and more hands on verification requirement. The high cost of things going wrong means they are way more likely to make factory recommended purchase no questions asked.
It could be a vendor built kit but someone has to pay for research, shopping and testing. If they only sell a handful a year $400 is a fair price.
24v or 12v LED tapes are usually simple. 3 or 6 LEDs in series with a resistor. They should be free of magnetic materials.
They would just wire the same path as the existing incandescent bulbs and terminate to an old school design unsophisticated linear constant current power supply. Some standard PWM dimming LED ballast make the LED strips into an effective RFI emission antenna and don't even pass FCC regulations for home use. Current reduction types spray less interference but if it uses switching power supply, the noise level can be too much. A linear power supply uses analog circuits to operate a transistor like a big rheostat. It's not very efficient but it produces a very clean power.
Standard light fixtures use chassis and fasteners that stick to magnet.
Last edited by Electric-Light; 01-18-17 at 02:07 AM.
We had led light installed last year. They works goog so far