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Thread: Underground PVC size transition

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by peter d View Post
    Probably because of this:
    That would do it.

    So maybe 1.25 from there to the section of 2" and stay with 2" there after?

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by iwire View Post
    That would do it.

    So maybe 1.25 from there to the section of 2" and stay with 2" there after?
    That would work.

    Besides, for a 60 amp feeder, 2 #6, 1 #8 and 1 #10 will fly through a 1.25" conduit like greased lightning, even with the transition.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by iwire View Post
    So maybe 1.25 from there to the section of 2" and stay with 2" there after?
    The reasons I don't want to run 2" on the other end are:

    1) I had to add a subpanel on the main panel side because panel was full. Biggest KO on subpanel is 1.5".

    2) I have to core drill through a concrete filled block wall. I hate core drilling and the larger the size, the more I hate it.

    3) Pipe is going to be exposed inside garage for about 15' and I had a hard enough time trying to sell this idea with 1.25". Pretty sure 2" would be a no go. Plus it's snaking behind the legs of a storage cabinet. 2" may not fit there. If I were to come through the wall just below the subpanel it would look a lot nicer but would require trenching 20 feet in a very bad area (full of bushes and other pipes).

  4. #14
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    There are also "swedge reducers" which are presumably easier to pull through:

    https://www.platt.com/platt-electric...px?zpid=476361

    Cheers, Wayne

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coppersmith View Post
    The reasons I don't want to run 2" on the other end are:

    1) I had to add a subpanel on the main panel side because panel was full. Biggest KO on subpanel is 1.5".

    2) I have to core drill through a concrete filled block wall. I hate core drilling and the larger the size, the more I hate it.

    3) Pipe is going to be exposed inside garage for about 15' and I had a hard enough time trying to sell this idea with 1.25". Pretty sure 2" would be a no go. Plus it's snaking behind the legs of a storage cabinet. 2" may not fit there. If I were to come through the wall just below the subpanel it would look a lot nicer but would require trenching 20 feet in a very bad area (full of bushes and other pipes).
    In that case, I would install the pull line before backfill as suggested, and use the reducers.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by wwhitney View Post
    There are also "swedge reducers" which are presumably easier to pull through:

    https://www.platt.com/platt-electric...px?zpid=476361

    Cheers, Wayne

    Nice, but $35 each!

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coppersmith View Post
    Nice, but $35 each!
    I call $35 to solve that problem (correctly) a bargain! How much is your time worth?



    SceneryDriver

  8. #18
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    Dec 2014
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    Sharps Chapel, TN
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    Well, first of all if I am understanding your installation you're taking a 60 amp service out to a detached garage that is 100 feet away. If in fact this is true then your trench should have been at 24 inches and not 18 inches.
    And because it is a detached garage you will need a main breaker as a means of disconnect in your panel.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by electrict dave View Post
    Well, first of all if I am understanding your installation you're taking a 60 amp service out to a detached garage that is 100 feet away. If in fact this is true then your trench should have been at 24 inches and not 18 inches.
    And because it is a detached garage you will need a main breaker as a means of disconnect in your panel.
    You don't necessarily need a main breaker because you can still use the 6 disconnect rule.
    They say I shot a man named Gray and took his wife to Italy
    She inherited a million bucks and when she died it came to me
    I can't help it if I'm lucky



  10. #20
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    What is the length of the 2" 'sleeve'?

    As I understand it, the reason you can't simply slide some 1.25" through the 2" sleeve is because of the bell ends for joining lengths of 1.25". But if you had a long enough length of 1.25" you would have no problem, correct?

    Would a flexible NM raceway be suitable for the entire run, something continuous with no joints in the middle?

    -Jon

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