wptski
Senior Member
- Location
- Warren, MI
I know this has been discussed before here and I was involved in one of the threads at least.
I first tried a device called a Shock Buster a portable GFCI that you just plug in first. Using a AEMC 1060 with the device plugged(tripped) into an extension cord, stating at 50V and trying all possible connections between L-N-G. I got max resistance in 50V, 100V and 250V but at 500V the voltage dropped to zero as the resistance started to drop. It was actually resetting the device.
I didn't know at first that I had a few PASS&Seymour 20A duplex GFCI's. I first used a Ideal Suretest which has a GFCI test function(I know the test button is the only true test) before starting and noted the readings. Using all possible L-N-G connections on the input/load side all the way to 1000V and got the max. resistance in every range. The test button still works and the Suretest shows the exact same tets values. Now, I don't know about PI ten minute test as that might be pushing it????
I first tried a device called a Shock Buster a portable GFCI that you just plug in first. Using a AEMC 1060 with the device plugged(tripped) into an extension cord, stating at 50V and trying all possible connections between L-N-G. I got max resistance in 50V, 100V and 250V but at 500V the voltage dropped to zero as the resistance started to drop. It was actually resetting the device.
I didn't know at first that I had a few PASS&Seymour 20A duplex GFCI's. I first used a Ideal Suretest which has a GFCI test function(I know the test button is the only true test) before starting and noted the readings. Using all possible L-N-G connections on the input/load side all the way to 1000V and got the max. resistance in every range. The test button still works and the Suretest shows the exact same tets values. Now, I don't know about PI ten minute test as that might be pushing it????