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Thread: can thermal protectors

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    NE (9.1 miles @5.07 Degrees from Winged Horses)
    Quote Originally Posted by ActionDave View Post
    I gotta get my eyes checked. I did not see the word "can" in the title of this thread the first time I looked at it.
    I saw it, but thought he wanted to get rid of them.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    NE Nebraska
    Quote Originally Posted by GlennH View Post
    Well that explains why the neutral is there, but are you saying the ambient air, when reaching a setpoint, causes the heater to come on thus tripping the overload or

    that the heater is on all the time and when the ambient air temp is added the overload then trips?

    Still don't understand why a simple switch wouldn't do the same thing
    Your average residential can has a thermal switch in series with the lamp inside the can. This type is usually mounted through a KO in the wiring box, bury that in insulation and it doesn't dissipate the heat it produces as quickly as if it is in open air, it cycles the light whether you have correct lamp installed or not if covered in insulation.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Quote Originally Posted by kwired View Post

    The heater inside the thermal overload keeps the trip unit at a "near trip" condition.
    That way the trip is quick and doesn't have to build up heat for a period of time before it opens the circuit.


  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    New Jersey
    Looks like a thermal overload for a Lightolier recessed can that's mounted to the wiring junction box on the outside of the housing and I'm guessing functions on external heat around the can as Mgraw described. Newer cans like Halo and Juno use only a 2-wire thermal overload inside the can and function on the heat of the bulb to trip if you over-lamp the fixture or heat inside the can if insulation is packed around it.

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