Page 5 of 7 FirstFirst ... 34567 LastLast
Results 41 to 50 of 65

Thread: Grounding electrode 250.64(D)

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    6,520
    Quote Originally Posted by jap View Post
    I disagree.

    To me, the bolt and nut have very little to do with the actual connection of the lug to the bar itself.

    The bolt probably doesn't even contact the inside diameter of the drilled hole in the bar.
    OK. Take away the bolt and nut. There is no longer a CONNECTION.
    Another Al in Minnesota

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    2,903
    On a lighter note,,, most bolts and nuts that are used for items such as,this seem to be softer and weaker than normal nuts and bolts I usually use.
    Maybe to save money, I don't know.

    I bolted a front hitch on my truck and used the 1/2" bolts and nuts that came with it.

    When I layed into them with the torque wrench at the specified ft lbs. 2 out of the 4 sheered off.

    One of them nearly blowing a hole through my radiator.

    Had that of happened, I'd of found their "Listed" phone number and they'd of gotten a very "Listed" piece of my mind.


    I chunked em and use my own.

    JAP>

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    2,903
    Quote Originally Posted by al hildenbrand View Post
    OK. Take away the bolt and nut. There is no longer a CONNECTION.
    You know what we mean.
    The actual connection is between the mating surfaces of the two.
    The bolt itself carries very little if any of the fault current in my opinion.

    JAP>

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    US
    Posts
    317
    Wow I never thought I would stir up such a conversation with that install, and especially about a nut and bolt. Like I said before it's widely excepted here. In fact it's the preferred method. Are there any inspectors here that would fail this install. I have seen way worse methods of installing an EGC that's for sure. Maybe were onto something we should start making bus bars with lugs welded on from the factory then there could be no missinterpretation

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    US
    Posts
    317
    I do this type of install 3/4 times a week

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  6. #46
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    2,903
    Quote Originally Posted by nickelec View Post
    Maybe were onto something we should start making bus bars with lugs welded on from the factory then there could be no missinterpretation

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

    Don't make them crimp type if you do like we use.
    Crimping in place on a bussbar like that would be a real Pain.

    JAP>

  7. #47
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    US
    Posts
    317
    Another thing if I was to grind off the head of that bolt and round over the nut it would then be irreversible. Another thing I didn't mention here in NYC we still good of 2008 NEC I don't have my book handy wat does it say in the 2008 book about connections to buss bars. That may end this conversation dead in it's tracks lol

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  8. #48
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    2,903
    Are those Romex Connectors on the bottom of those panels listed to be used with those single insulated conductors?

    JAP>

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Austin, TX, USA
    Posts
    8,489
    Quote Originally Posted by jap View Post
    The bolt probably doesn't even contact the inside diameter of the drilled hole in the bar.
    And sometimes the holes are square.

  10. #50
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    2,903
    If you tightened the ends of the romex connectors down to where each end are touching you've in a sense created a choke and you probably need to bond those also....

    Ok I'm done.

    JAP>

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •