tester accuracy

Status
Not open for further replies.

electricalist

Senior Member
Location
dallas tx
Often in threads ,,post will ask about testers being used.
If any one would like to share what testers they prefer for v,oltage testing , then for ohms and so on , on to the more complicated.
I have very little real knowledge on the differences.
 

John120/240

Senior Member
Location
Olathe, Kansas
For my uses this Ideal Vol-Con #61-076 & Fluke Amp clamp are what I use. Not too sophisticated.
 

Attachments

  • fluke amp clamp.jpg
    fluke amp clamp.jpg
    22.3 KB · Views: 0
  • vol con ideal 61-076.JPG
    vol con ideal 61-076.JPG
    21.5 KB · Views: 0

Strathead

Senior Member
Location
Ocala, Florida, USA
Occupation
Electrician/Estimator/Project Manager/Superintendent
One thing to watch out for is the maximum resistance reading. If you do any fire alarm, then you need to be able to read at least 3K many of the combination testers by Fluke Greenlee etc, don't go over 600 ohms and that doesn't help when trying to read the end of the line resistors. Another thing is what you are trying to do. If I am just working on a standard commercial building checking for voltage a simple tester that tells the difference between 120 240 277 and 480 is usually better than one that is accurate. I being a dinosaur, also find great benefit is a Simpson 260 analog. It is much less likely to give false readings.
 

PetrosA

Senior Member
I've graduated past the buying of cheap testers after dealing with an Extech that went wonky on me but showed no signs of wonkiness. I also don't carry any test tools that aren't TRMS rated except for my insulation tester. I don't need to test for energized circuits for safety on a regular basis, so I don't own a voltage tester (which is recommended over a DMM/clamp meter when the need for verification is there since with a voltage tester you can't accidentally set it to the wrong setting and mistake a reading).

On my tool pouch I carry a Hioki 3282 clamp meter. Small, accurate and handy, but no back light.

In the truck I also have a number of test tools from Agilent/Keysight which work with their Bluetooth system:

U1211A clamp meter
U1272A DMM
U1242A DMM
U1115A Wireless receiver
U1117A Bluetooth modules

as well as:

AEMC 1250N megohmmeter

The Keysight DMMs seem more accurate than my Hioki, but that's to be expected. They also work wirelessly up to 300 feet with the modules and receiver.

There are three more tools I'd like to add to my collection but can't afford it yet:

AEMC PEL datalogger
Tasco 42 circuit mapper
and a handheld oscilloscope.

I also have a few tools on my workbench at home:

Metrix MX24 DMM TRMS which I got on the AEMC website at a price I couldn't refuse.
Klein CL3100 hook meter for $15. How could I refuse that?
http://www.kleinconnection.com/200a-hook-meter.html
They still have them in stock for that price. Only downside is it isn't TRMS.
 

p1ll1ng

Member
I use a fluke t-5 gor the grab and go meter an a fluke 376 for a ac/dc clamp an a gluke 1587 for those precise measurements or for meggering
 

electricalist

Senior Member
Location
dallas tx
Thanks for all the post, when I started we always had a wiggy tester and a fluke, mostly single phase work.
Now I have Milwaukee. Wouldn't say they are great but I don't really know how good is determined.. Testing a motors start up,, some testers scramble some show a value for a split second. Mine says trms but what will that be for. Exteck ohms testers$ 1k. Does it work.....
 

electricalist

Senior Member
Location
dallas tx
a610309a33a22178c72f7a0a074a84bc.jpg
73e393a9186c0a243cafc0b0f9ca1d6e.jpg

The amp probe has something going on. Sometimes when it's on continuity when it rings it doesn't stop even when I seperate the leads .
 

PetrosA

Senior Member
Yeah, those testers look like they're ready for the dumpster, especially if there are any malfunctions.

There are two types of meters; averaging and True Root-Mean Squared. What that designates is how the meter arrives at a voltage value. When we refer to 120V, the sine peaks are actually at a higher value (RMSx1.414) of about 170V or 340V peak-to-peak. The reason we use the 120V number is that it indicates what DC voltage would be needed instead of AC voltage. For example, if you hooked a 120V incandescent light bulb up to 170V DC (value at the top of the AC wave form) it would quickly burn out. An averaging meter assumes a perfect sine wave is being read and does a simple calculation to spit out a voltage value. A TRMS meter actually computes the value while taking into consideration harmonic distortion of a sine wave or even non-sinusoidal waves like you might have from a UPS. The reading from a TRMS meter will be more accurate in more situations.

I recommend staying away from Extech and other brands like Milwaukee, Klein or Southwire. Those are just rebadged testers from mass producers in Asia. Do stick with brands like AEMC, Fluke, Hioki, Keysight etc. which are actually the designers AND manufacturers of their testers.

Also, you might want to start keeping your testers in protective pouches ;)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top