Advice on cable tugger for remote field work

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10fords

Member
Location
California
I had a thread going on distance between sweeps which made me realize I need some sort of cable tugger for the kind of work I have been doing. I have never used one in 20 years of being an electrician/ electrical contractor, but I think the time has come for me to enter the 21st century! I mostly pull wire from PVC conduit that is located at ground level in Christy boxes. Rarely have a plug in power source, but always have my Honda eu2000i generator, or a 5k genny available if necessary. Anyone else done this kind of work and have a recommendation for a good setup? I'm OK with fabricating, so it doesn't have to be a factory setup. My criteria would be durability, ease of use, and ability to transport into steep terrain. Thanks for any advice- Scott
 

iwire

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Massachusetts
I had a thread going on distance between sweeps which made me realize I need some sort of cable tugger for the kind of work I have been doing. I have never used one in 20 years of being an electrician/ electrical contractor, but I think the time has come for me to enter the 21st century! I mostly pull wire from PVC conduit that is located at ground level in Christy boxes. Rarely have a plug in power source, but always have my Honda eu2000i generator, or a 5k genny available if necessary. Anyone else done this kind of work and have a recommendation for a good setup? I'm OK with fabricating, so it doesn't have to be a factory setup. My criteria would be durability, ease of use, and ability to transport into steep terrain. Thanks for any advice- Scott

What size cables are you going to be pulling and how far?

You can get a smaller puller for like 2,000 or 3,000 but a big one will run 6,000 to 8,000 depending on the options you get.

Be realistic as choosing a smaller one to save money will cost you more if you burn up the motor or can't complete a pull you started.
 

10fords

Member
Location
California
What size cables are you going to be pulling and how far?

You can get a smaller puller for like 2,000 or 3,000 but a big one will run 6,000 to 8,000 depending on the options you get.

Be realistic as choosing a smaller one to save money will cost you more if you burn up the motor or can't complete a pull you started.

Wire size is usually in the #4 to #2/0 range and I try to keep the distance between pull boxes at around 300 feet. sometimes if the run is only 400 feet I will do it continuous if it is fairly straight. The thing I am unclear on is it seems like the maxxis style tuggers attach to the panel in the wall and brace to the floor of which I have neither when I am pulling through Christy boxes in the ground. And the larger tuggers would be difficult if not impossible to get to where I need to use them- hillsides etc. I'm sure there is a solution amongst the vast amount of knowledge here though! Thanks- Scott
 

iwire

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Massachusetts
Wire size is usually in the #4 to #2/0 range and I try to keep the distance between pull boxes at around 300 feet. sometimes if the run is only 400 feet

Then for sure, the less expensive Maxius puller or one its clones from Current Tools would be fine. They set up quickly and transport easy.
 

10fords

Member
Location
California
Then for sure, the less expensive Maxius puller or one its clones from Current Tools would be fine. They set up quickly and transport easy.

How do they work when pulling from the ground? I have looked at them online and can't figure out how it would work. Unfortunately my lousy internet service doesn't allow me to view youtube videos.
 

Ponchik

Senior Member
Location
CA
Occupation
Electronologist
I have not used tuggers for the last 20 years but I will throw this out there.

Since you have fairly small cable, how about you install your tugger on two or three rail road ties and use that as a solid surface. Then use (6) 48" long 5/8" thick steel rods to attach the ties to the ground.

I don't know if this will work or not. :?
 

JoeyD74

Senior Member
Location
Boston MA
Occupation
Electrical contractor
How do they work when pulling from the ground? I have looked at them online and can't figure out how it would work. Unfortunately my lousy internet service doesn't allow me to view youtube videos.
They can also attach to the hitch on the back of your van, if you have one.
 

10fords

Member
Location
California
I have not used tuggers for the last 20 years but I will throw this out there.

Since you have fairly small cable, how about you install your tugger on two or three rail road ties and use that as a solid surface. Then use (6) 48" long 5/8" thick steel rods to attach the ties to the ground.

I don't know if this will work or not. :?

They can also attach to the hitch on the back of your van, if you have one.

Thanks guys. I think the logistics of the railroad ties etc. would be too labor intensive. The hitch part sounds interesting though. I have a 1966 Bronco with lockers, winch, and a receiver hitch that I could get into a lot of places that I need to pull at, but not all. I could get a receiver for my quad, but I don't think it would be heavy enough to pull from. I was thinking of making a big tripod that I could hang a snatch block from and pull with a winch. Anyone ever use this method? Theoretically the downward pressure would hold the tripod in place, but I'm not sure if it would be enough to keep the tripod from moving toward the winch.
 

Joe Villani

Senior Member
If it was me I would just bite the bullet and go with one of the following

The greenlee UT-10 with the mobile version set up (wheels)

http://www.greenlee.com/products/UT10-PACKAGE-W%40FMOBILE-VERSI-BOOM.html?product_id=18706

or

Condux International Cable Glider HD

http://www.condux.com/product.php?id=244

Both are pricey but it will be the only puller you will ever have to buy. Also you can rent it to other contractors if the need arises

I like the greenlee because you can use a 3" piece of rigid to extend the boom.

Condux are tools that are designed for utiity type installations.

They have accessories for the underground installations as you are encountering.

An example: http://www.condux.com/product.php?id=258

If you read the instruction manuals for each, they detail a manhole or handhole application.

It might seem like a bit overkill, but if you are proficient at this type of work and the word gets out, you'll have other ECs subbing their pulling to you.

Good luck in your search

Joe Villani
 

10fords

Member
Location
California
If it was me I would just bite the bullet and go with one of the following

The greenlee UT-10 with the mobile version set up (wheels)

http://www.greenlee.com/products/UT10-PACKAGE-W%40FMOBILE-VERSI-BOOM.html?product_id=18706

or

Condux International Cable Glider HD

http://www.condux.com/product.php?id=244

Both are pricey but it will be the only puller you will ever have to buy. Also you can rent it to other contractors if the need arises

I like the greenlee because you can use a 3" piece of rigid to extend the boom.

Condux are tools that are designed for utiity type installations.

They have accessories for the underground installations as you are encountering.

An example: http://www.condux.com/product.php?id=258

If you read the instruction manuals for each, they detail a manhole or handhole application.

It might seem like a bit overkill, but if you are proficient at this type of work and the word gets out, you'll have other ECs subbing their pulling to you.

Good luck in your search

Joe Villani

Great stuff Joe! Condux appears to have a unit that looks like the tripod setup I was talking about. I'm going to look into these tomorrow. Thanks- Scott
 

cadpoint

Senior Member
Location
Durham, NC
How about a review of how pulleys work. Pulley Systems.

Note that in fact with boom arms and the like your transferring the load back to the body or frame holding the boom arm and not as clearly stated as the stationary loading done in the link.

What I'm trying to get you to realize is that in fact in most cases even if one thinks there
doing better using two rollers the exact loading at each roller is off due to obtuse angle loading of the rollers, verses the Link. Also the load is usually over-over the rollers, not over-under a roller.

I've seen the frame of the boom bolted to the floor. Even as simple and non heavy
as a pull might be, stay alert!
 

JoeyD74

Senior Member
Location
Boston MA
Occupation
Electrical contractor
Thanks guys. I think the logistics of the railroad ties etc. would be too labor intensive. The hitch part sounds interesting though. I have a 1966 Bronco with lockers, winch, and a receiver hitch that I could get into a lot of places that I need to pull at, but not all. I could get a receiver for my quad, but I don't think it would be heavy enough to pull from. I was thinking of making a big tripod that I could hang a snatch block from and pull with a winch. Anyone ever use this method? Theoretically the downward pressure would hold the tripod in place, but I'm not sure if it would be enough to keep the tripod from moving toward the winch.
If you can't anchor it, it will move.
 

JoeyD74

Senior Member
Location
Boston MA
Occupation
Electrical contractor
These are a couple of wire guides for pulling wire in ground boxes or man holes
 

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Fulthrotl

~Autocorrect is My Worst Enema.~
How do they work when pulling from the ground? I have looked at them online and can't figure out how it would work. Unfortunately my lousy internet service doesn't allow me to view youtube videos.

if you are pulling from a ground box, the maxxis tuggers will work well.
put a 4x4 about 3' long on the foot, so it won't twist, and i use a short
piece of pipe big enough to go over the lower legs, and act as a straight
leg to the bottom of the box. pull directly out of the conduit over the
large second sheave, and don't put the first sheave on at all.

that's if there is a long reach to the bottom of the ground box.
for what you are doing, i suspect the factory legs going to the
conduit yolk will reach the bottom. just stick it in the hole, and pull
straight over the second roller.

if you need to pull out a long amount, you can stick a piece of strut
in between the pulling head, and the sheave.

if it's a hundred feet down the side of a hill from where the truck is parked,
i'd stick the end of the tugger in a class 3 receiver on the vehicle, put a sheave
or a roller over the edge of the box, and pull it from the vehicle.
that's about the fastest way. just mount it on the vehicle, and off you go.

i've got one of these for snaking cable around a corner.

http://www.amazon.com/Cmi-High-Roller-Edge-Protector/dp/B003EM77U2

 
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J.P.

Senior Member
Location
United States
Once in a great while I will drive a stake for the maxis base. Every other time I have used it I just slip the sleeve in the pipe or the collar around the nut on the MA and the tension of the wire being puled keeps it in place.

I can't think of a simpler set up. Well except hiring it done:)

Whatever you get will beat the heck out of hand pulling.
 
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