Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 29

Thread: Rewiring a 1930s House comments

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Atlanta,GA
    Posts
    5,877
    Quote Originally Posted by electricguy61 View Post
    I too had an older home that needed rew
    iring, plumbing, insulation, etc.

    I gutted, to bare studs, one room at a time, made all the necessary repairs, insulated, etc.

    And think of all that lead paint you got rid of and probably no one even noticed. From now on you are safe no matter how strict the law gets.

    And it's one of the most energy efficient things you can do. To heck with tankless water heaters, it's heating and cooling that cost the real money.
    The 95% of people that you can't trust give the other 5% a bad name.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Roughly 5346 miles from Earls Court
    Posts
    2,623
    Quote Originally Posted by growler View Post
    And it's one of the most energy efficient things you can do.
    Depends on whether you replace the walls with plaster or drywall. Plaster is a far better insulator and obviously much more robust.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Atlanta,GA
    Posts
    5,877
    Quote Originally Posted by growler View Post

    And it's one of the most energy efficient things you can do.
    Quote Originally Posted by zbang View Post
    Depends on whether you replace the walls with plaster or drywall. Plaster is a far better insulator and obviously much more robust.
    Plaster may be a better insulator than drywall but there is no insulation in the walls of these old homes. With 3 1/2 - 4 inches of spray foam insalation in the outside wall and then drywall it will be much better insulated. It will even dampen the noise from outside.
    The 95% of people that you can't trust give the other 5% a bad name.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Williamsburg, VA
    Posts
    5,438
    Tom, I do not know of any places that require those gaskets, however I see that some Led trim can light replacements come with a gasket, so I imagine they are required in some places.


    Quote Originally Posted by romex jockey View Post
    Many plast/lath homes were framed w/ 2x4's on edge, so we use a lot of>>



    Carlon B117RSW


    ~RJ~
    I remember when I first inquired about that type of box and trying to describe it. Best I could come up with was "pregnant box".
    Electricians do it until it Hertz!

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    The Motor City, Michigan USA
    Posts
    765
    Quote Originally Posted by growler View Post
    Plaster may be a better insulator than drywall ... It will even dampen [sic] the noise from outside.
    Perhaps, but the difference is irrelevant. Neither plaster nor drywall is an effective thermal insulator.

    "dampen" (verb): add a small amount of water to
    "damp" (verb, present tense): attenuate, diminish
    "damped" (verb, past tense): attenuated, diminished
    This is a very common error. So common, in fact, that it appears in some dictionaries.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Bremerton, Washington
    Posts
    7,915
    Quote Originally Posted by Frank DuVal View Post
    If you do not yet own one of these, get a similar one, you will be able to seal most every little space in your re-hab.

    Be aware, there is a learning curve on how much foam expands! And there are different expansion types for that gun.

    The gun is sssooooo much easier than the cans with straws.

    What? You guys don't take the time to cut out the plaster and wood lath to screw the GEM box to the wood lath like the old guys did it? Ha!
    I have a Hilit foam gun at work its great, the nozzle does not plug up
    Moderator-Washington State
    Ancora Imparo

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Bremerton, Washington
    Posts
    7,915
    Quote Originally Posted by electrofelon View Post
    Ive been using smart boxes screwed to the stud whenever possible for lath and plaster. IMO its a much stronger and higher quality install. It does take a little more time as you have to located the stud, and can be tricky if you dont have a good wall scanner that will go through the plaster and lath.
    What is a smart box?
    So fastening to the stud is a great idea, and it would be stronger.
    Moderator-Washington State
    Ancora Imparo

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    The Motor City, Michigan USA
    Posts
    765

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Cherry Valley NY, Seattle, WA
    Posts
    4,530
    Quote Originally Posted by drcampbell View Post
    Yep. I actually like the arlington ones a little better (I call all boxes with the side screws "smart boxes" regardless of brand). I hate the big bosses in the smart box brand ones and they dont have many cubic inches.

    The last rewire I did, I used the arlington ones pretty much everywhere. Most of the walls were being skim coated so i was free to drill into the wall with a 1/16 bit to find the studs. Once I found one on a wall, the others were easy as the framing was 16" OC
    Ethan Brush - East West Electric. NY, WA. MA

    "You can't generalize"

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    13,327
    All #12 for receptacles even where not required?

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •