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Thread: 0-10 volt dimmable LED troffer control wiring

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Madison, WI, USA
    Posts
    329

    0-10 volt dimmable LED troffer control wiring

    I’m installing 0-10v dimmable LEDs and I have a couple questions about he control wiring:

    1. I’m using class 2 CL thermostat wire (18-2) for the DC signal. From how I interpret the chapter on power limited wiring is that it’s ok for this wire to enter the junction box on the light fixture through a separate knockout. Anyone care to refute?

    2. There seems to be no way to turn the fixture completely off using a DC signal. 0 volts ( or no signal) is full brightness and 10 volts is full brightness. 1-10 volts is bright somewhat proportional to voltage but there’s a plateau where no more dimming is possible at about 2 volts. I discovered by accident that removing the voltage signal and shorting the input terminals in the fixture causes the light to turn off. I tested one off to the side for a few days and it seemed to cause no harm to the electronics. I was wondering if anyone knew of this was by design and meant to operate this way. I could easily put a relay in the control box that disconnects the signal voltage and shorts the control circuit for off operation. The documentation on these fixtures is sparse.

    Thanks!


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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    123
    Shorting the purple and grey leads will dim to the lowest light level - this may be off or may be just dim. Open is full on. On the fancier drivers, this can be programmed (whether they dim to off, and what the low and high level points are). Shorting the leads should not cause any damage as that's an allowable state.

    /mike

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Madison, WI, USA
    Posts
    329
    Thanks. It makes sense that that would be by design. I’m new to this technology but I’m liking it.


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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    118
    Are you just putting the class 2 wire through the knockout on the j-box? Or is there a connector for low voltage wiring?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    68
    Quote Originally Posted by DrSparks View Post
    I’m installing 0-10v dimmable LEDs and I have a couple questions about he control wiring:

    1. I’m using class 2 CL thermostat wire (18-2) for the DC signal. From how I interpret the chapter on power limited wiring is that it’s ok for this wire to enter the junction box on the light fixture through a separate knockout. Anyone care to refute?

    2. There seems to be no way to turn the fixture completely off using a DC signal. 0 volts ( or no signal) is full brightness and 10 volts is full brightness. 1-10 volts is bright somewhat proportional to voltage but there’s a plateau where no more dimming is possible at about 2 volts. I discovered by accident that removing the voltage signal and shorting the input terminals in the fixture causes the light to turn off. I tested one off to the side for a few days and it seemed to cause no harm to the electronics. I was wondering if anyone knew of this was by design and meant to operate this way. I could easily put a relay in the control box that disconnects the signal voltage and shorts the control circuit for off operation. The documentation on these fixtures is sparse.

    Thanks!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Why don’t you just jump the lights out in Luminary cable

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