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Thread: outlet

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Simi Valley, CA
    Posts
    8,385
    Quote Originally Posted by 480sparky View Post
    Bare ground wire right next to the hot terminals. Pushing in a cord moves the recep / wiring and causes short.
    had sort of the same thing happen, it was a metal box with a raised cover and there was a nick in the wire that we didn't see. As soon as someone plugged something in it popped. actually checked the box several times until it popped and left an arc mark on the back of the box.

    That's one of those lessons you don't forget, check the easy stuff first.
    I can build anything you want if you draw a picture of it on the back of a big enough check.

    There's no substitute for hard work....but that doesn't mean I'm going to give up trying to find one.

    John Childress
    Electrical Inspector
    IAEI / CEI / C10
    Certified Electrical Inspector

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    2,378
    hit it w/ end of 2x4, see if the ocpd trips

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Austin, TX, USA
    Posts
    9,800
    Quote Originally Posted by cowboyjwc View Post
    had sort of the same thing happen, it was a metal box with a raised cover and there was a nick in the wire that we didn't see. As soon as someone plugged something in it popped. actually checked the box several times until it popped and left an arc mark on the back of the box.

    That's one of those lessons you don't forget, check the easy stuff first.
    In a somewhat related story...

    For years I drove a 1971 Ford Econoline van. It did this annoying thing; I would just be driving along when suddenly the engine would shut down and would not restart. When this happened I would pull off the engine cowling and kind of poke around, find nothing amiss, try to start it, and it would light right off and run fine... for a month or two, when it would happen again. This went on for a couple of years before I finally found the problem. On the top front of the engine there was a heater hose that attached to the engine with a hose clamp, and the side of the clamp was in contact with engine metal. The 12V supply line from the distributor points to the coil was in contact with the tag end of the hose clamp and over time it had worn a tiny notch through the insulation on the underside of the wire where I couldn't see it. Short to ground, dead engine.

    Whenever I would poke around under the engine cowling the wire would get moved so that it was no longer shorted to ground, so the engine would start up and run fine for a long while, but eventually the notch in the insulation would find its way back to the clamp and shut things down again. It drove me nuts.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    2,378
    Quote Originally Posted by ggunn View Post
    In a somewhat related story...

    For years I drove a 1971 Ford Econoline van. It did this annoying thing; I would just be driving along when suddenly the engine would shut down and would not restart. When this happened I would pull off the engine cowling and kind of poke around, find nothing amiss, try to start it, and it would light right off and run fine... for a month or two, when it would happen again. This went on for a couple of years before I finally found the problem. On the top front of the engine there was a heater hose that attached to the engine with a hose clamp, and the side of the clamp was in contact with engine metal. The 12V supply line from the distributor points to the coil was in contact with the tag end of the hose clamp and over time it had worn a tiny notch through the insulation on the underside of the wire where I couldn't see it. Short to ground, dead engine.

    Whenever I would poke around under the engine cowling the wire would get moved so that it was no longer shorted to ground, so the engine would start up and run fine for a long while, but eventually the notch in the insulation would find its way back to the clamp and shut things down again. It drove me nuts.
    arent all 1971 eco line vans now in a car graveyard, or squished into a cube of metal?

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Bay Area, Northern CA
    Posts
    1,057
    Are you reading the 120v with an electronic meter? Those can be difficult to troubleshoot with as there is no real load on the voltage.
    ABC

    "Eschew Obfuscation!"

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Bay Area, Northern CA
    Posts
    1,057
    Quote Originally Posted by FionaZuppa View Post
    arent all 1971 eco line vans now in a car graveyard, or squished into a cube of metal?
    My first service van (working for someone else) was that era; dark green exterior, on the column 3 speed, no power steering or brakes, no AC, am radio, rattled something terrible.

    How far we’ve come. My current ProRam 1500 hightop is a cadillac by comparison.
    ABC

    "Eschew Obfuscation!"

  7. #17
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Boyertown, PA, USA
    Posts
    238
    Quote Originally Posted by electricguy61 View Post
    My first service van (working for someone else) was that era; dark green exterior, on the column 3 speed, no power steering or brakes, no AC, am radio, rattled something terrible.

    How far we’ve come. My current ProRam 1500 hightop is a cadillac by comparison.
    My present work ride is a 2014 E250...the end of the line for Econolines, except cutaway bodies. It's a miserable ride, that's only happy when *really* loaded down...like three full cable reels, a half skid of plywood, a pallet (ton) of wood pellets, etc. It's rattle-y, the front end has something funky going on just like every "Twin I-beam" does, but it keeps a boatload of tools and materials dry and safe, so it beats my prior F-150 pickups by miles.

    *And it's paid for.*

    I doubt I'll still be working when it requires replacement. A Promaster or Transit would be nice, but I'm well beyond wanting to lay out for another truck.

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