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Thread: Unique Situation

  1. #1
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    Unique Situation

    due to voltage drop and far distances we have large feeders say 1/0 and larger dropping down to #6 and #8. They are asking for a box with copper details to achieve the reduction. Is this the best and most cost effective way of reducing the feeder from a large size to a much smaller size. We have a bunch of these scenarios. Thanks

  2. #2
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    I would say no. Polaris types taps and a proper size pullbox is what I would do.
    Rob

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    All responses based on the 2014 NEC unless otherwise noted

  3. #3
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    Not at all. Polaris taps are nice, but costly. T&B offers hypress butt splices with reducers.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris664 View Post
    Not at all. Polaris taps are nice, but costly. T&B offers hypress butt splices with reducers.
    I agree but in mrluckys case his labor costs for a single journeyman are over $100/hour so the faster Polaris style taps may be cheaper in the long run
    Rob

    Moderator

    All responses based on the 2014 NEC unless otherwise noted

  5. #5
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    These come in various sizes. Like using Polaris connectors but you have to put your own insulation on. Heat shrink works or rubber and vinyl tape wrap. Cheaper material-wise, more expensive labor-wise.

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-0-STR-...2-10/100126602

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by mstrlucky74 View Post
    due to voltage drop and far distances we have large feeders say 1/0 and larger dropping down to #6 and #8. They are asking for a box with copper details to achieve the reduction. Is this the best and most cost effective way of reducing the feeder from a large size to a much smaller size. We have a bunch of these scenarios. Thanks
    It might be if it reduces your field labor enough. Field labor is insanely costly and if you can buy something off the shelf it can often be quite cost effective.

    here is an idea.

    https://lugsdirect.com/double-wire-lugs.htm

    Part number 2S1/0 is $1.39 each and has 2 holes each sized for 1/0 down to #14.

    As a bonus is UL listed for flexible stranded wires.

    Buy a part number 600V-KIT for an insulated standoff you can mount to any panel for $6.60.

    Get some sheet metal boxes of whatever style and size makes sense. Make them up in the shop. For $50 or $100 it is done. Can even cut holes for conduit in the shop if you know where it is going and install a hub or whatever.
    Bob

  7. #7
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    I think the insulated Polaris bugs are probably the right way to go. You can probably use a smaller JB if you use the knuckle type connectors like these :

    https://commerce.ilsco.com/e2wShoppi...208:3100012314

    I use Ilsco insulated barrel crimps lik these but usually only on services

    https://commerce.ilsco.com/e2wShoppi...197:3100012379

  8. #8
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    Apr 2015
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    "cold shrink" insulation has been holding up and working great here in the desert as far as using burndy reducers/butt splices goes... remember... if the larger wire is at the circuit breaker its a good thing you will have the crimper- the goof up comes when you try to terminate a 1/0 into a 70 amp c.b. burndy also makes crimp on reducing terminal pins for this... (most wholesale houses that stock the crimp stuff will have the correct crimper to loan out) the engineer may have spec'd out what kind of splices are expected... mechanical or irreversible. unless the engineer is you!

    I guess its worth saying the problem isn't the #6 or #8's but the 1/0... 1/0 or bigger you cant beat a crimp but a mechanical splice is fine for small wires. but, butt splices sure makes a ugly mess in vaults- Polaris side by side sure looks nice...
    Last edited by rambojoe; 09-19-18 at 08:48 AM.

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