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Thread: Air conditioner disconnect for inverter?

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaggedben View Post
    Well that's actually true for the vast majority of residential solar inverters as well, not going above 32A. The few that actually go up to 48A we are making a bigger enough profit on those jobs that I can spend 70 bucks on a safety switch.

    Useful feedback, but I'm most interested in whether anyone thinks there's a code issue.
    I think it is dependent on interpretation of what you brought up:

    the disconnecting means shall consist of ... switch(es) or circuit breaker(s) with the following [feature]:
    ...
    (2) Externally operable without exposing the operator to live parts...
    IMO operator isn't exposed to live parts with such disconnect.

    Midwest Electric has a model that has a sliding switch operator instead of a "pull out" if you want to go one step further with non exposure to live parts, and is only slightly higher in price than the pull out version. No pull out to lose either.
    I live for today, I'm just a day behind.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaggedben View Post
    to comply with the grouped disconnect requirement when an inverter is not near the point of interconnection. 690.15 in the 2014 NEC.
    Would you mind elaborating a bit? Im a but fuzzy on that. Are you thinking about 690.15(A)(3)?
    Ethan Brush - East West Electric. NY, WA. MA

    "You can't generalize"

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaggedben View Post
    Pretty much the same deal for solar inverters, I think, if by 'rarely' you mean that once a unit is installed and commissioned, most are not touched again for a long time. (Or do you mean that most of the time that you yourself operate one, you have the circuit turned off elsewhere?) Also since inverters don't restart immediately when reconnected, it's only disconnecting that one needs to be concerned with load. But these things are load break rated anyway, right?
    Pretty much, but as mentioned above, every once in a while you will be putting one in when it's going to start as soon as you do. That can sometimes be a pain, especially on an older one. The new ones seem to work much better for getting it in smartly and fully. I've had to replace a lot more failed breaker-style discos than pull-outs.

    One can have a preference but to say using the other is a hallmark for bad install is a stretch. After all, I would never use a backstab on a receptacle!

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwired View Post
    ...Midwest Electric has a model that has a sliding switch operator instead of a "pull out" if you want to go one step further with non exposure to live parts, and is only slightly higher in price than the pull out version. No pull out to lose either.
    When doing maintenance, I far prefer the pull-outs to the breakers or switch styles. The reason being is I take the pull-out and set it on top of the disco box or machine and can look any time and SEE IT. Sometimes during t-shooting, you will turn power on and off several times. I ALWAYS make sure it's off again when I need it. And I don't leave the lids open to see the breakers or switch because that's a guaranteed way to cut your head open when you hit it.

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