Paslode

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stickboy1375

Senior Member
Location
Litchfield, CT
I just started a job which requires ALOT of framing on my part, basically blocking for light fixture boxes and all the receptacles are installed horizontal which also requires blocking, just wondering if anybody has bought a Paslode or just uses a hammer and nail...
 

big vic

Senior Member
I would use the carpenter's nail gun or use a screw gun and screws........or have the carpenter put in the blocks
 

stickboy1375

Senior Member
Location
Litchfield, CT
Yeh, would be nice to have the carpenter do it, but can't see wasting two guys time, me laying out the blocks and the going to get the carpenter and showing him where to nail the block... :grin:
 

ceb

Senior Member
Location
raeford,nc
The gas operated nail guns are the trick. No air hoses to fool with or get tangled up when working off of a ladder. $300.00 or so at slowes i mean lowes
 

stickboy1375

Senior Member
Location
Litchfield, CT
Thats what i'm thinking, I've used them before, just never dawned on me to go buy one till I started this one job... and really got thinking about how much time I waste installing nailers for switch boxes...
 

RBI14

Member
Try using cabinet screws. Available at Home Depot right next to drywall screws. These are typically used to join kitchen cabinets together. The head is much smaller than a drywall screw, just slightly larger than the threaded portion. Uses a #2 square head bit to drive. Don't need to predrill any holes. I have a cordless framing nailer that is a struggle to get between joists. And the exhaust kicks up the insulation when doing old work in an attic. But my cordless drill works just fine. Upside is if I happen to misplace a 2x4 by a little bit, can easily remove screws, reposition and drive screws back in. Timewise, they take just slightly longer than to use framing nailer, but a LOT more convenient.
 

360Youth

Senior Member
Location
Newport, NC
Allied makes what I call a bar-hanger light box, most are probably familiar, if you find one with recept., let me know. This would be my recomendation if you can find it. It is a [back] pain having to horizontally mount recept. in a baseboard. So far, for me, it has been hammer and nails. Are you going in the baseboard where you are essentially raising the bottom plate with scrap lumber, or are you having to cut blocks and nail them in? A nail gun would probably better serve the latter so you won't have to hold the block and swing the hammer at the same time.
 

mhulbert

Senior Member
Location
Chico, CA
May I suggest a couple cases of Caddy TSGB's? It's basically an adjustable spreader bar that you screw into the studs, then set your box, usually a shallow or deep 4S or 5S, where it needs to be, and screw to the bar with short tek screws. I use these all the time, they save me the effort of cutting 2x's and trying to nail them in straight. I think you will find that the price of these easily pays itself in labor, and additionally, you have a more accurate placement.

Here's the product page: http://www.erico.com/products/CADDYcfcScrwGnBxBrckt.asp
 

Jim W in Tampa

Senior Member
Location
Tampa Florida
Just how many board are we talking about ?Drywall screws are likely the cheapest way out unless we are talking about 100 or more.A carpenter would probably only slow the job down.
 

JohnE

Senior Member
Location
Milford, MA
Personally, I prefer just a hammer and nails. I've done a lot of carpentry, and it wouldn't save me enough time to warrant the cost. Unless there is an insane amount of blocking. 20, 30, 40 blocks, I'd do by hand. I'd spend the money on something else given the choice.

My guys are a different story. It would probably make me money if they needed to do the blocking.

So, it depends on your skills.:wink: Course you'll never get any better if you don't do it by hand.:grin:

That's why I won't let my new guys use screw guns for devices until they've put in thousands of them. They need to build some skills.
 

Mike03a3

Senior Member
Location
Virginia
stickboy1375 said:
all the receptacles are installed horizontal which also requires blocking

Use these instead. Great for baseboards, since you can easily adjust the box to make it flush with the face of the baseboard.

SBHZ.gif
 

-marty

Senior Member
Location
Alaska
I bought the paslode and it worked great. I used it for a little over a year and it broke. It was only used by me and I take good care of my tools.

It went to the shop and came back in little better condition than it went in. Went back to shop. It is now sits in a box waiting for me to buy a boat so I can use it for an anchor.

Summary - you will love it. And your shop can probably fix it if it breaks. But mine couldn't.

Good tool - bad shop.

I have paid for two and have none.
 

brian john

Senior Member
Location
Leesburg, VA
The real issue is he just wants another tool, feels guilty about buying it and is looking for re-enforcement of his decision

Go ahead and buy it.....
 

stickboy1375

Senior Member
Location
Litchfield, CT
brian john said:
The real issue is he just wants another tool, feels guilty about buying it and is looking for re-enforcement of his decision

Go ahead and buy it.....

:grin: :grin: :grin: Naaaa... just tired of swinging a hammer... I already roughed the 2nd floor in, and i can't tell you the amount of added labor in putting receptacles in the baseboard...
 

blue spark

Senior Member
Location
MN
We're constantly putting up boards for scabs, nm ladders, stub-outs for track and undercabinet lighting. We tried Paslode but the cold became an issue for us. Didn't like to work in the cold. We just have a 10" Dewalt chop say and a box of 3" torxs on our rough ins. Works great and easier to remove the boards in case of changes.
 

macmikeman

Senior Member
I have a passload, love it, use it all the time. Had it for over 5 years and no real trouble with it. Keep the carpenter's hands off of it and they are good to go. Also having a small light weight chop saw available is part of the speeding up of the process. Gotta try the caddy bracket technique so I can see if it is more cost effective labor wise vs cost.
 
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