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Thread: Bryant panels?

  1. #1
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    Bryant panels?

    I have an old bryant panel that I am putting a new 15amp breaker into. Trying to find bryant breakers, I was informed cutler-hammer bought out bryant. I was also told cutler hammer breakers would fit a bryant panel. I put a CH breaker in and it would not hold, and no voltage could be read. Any suggestions?
    "It's better to burn out than fade away."

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lithium1994
    I have an old bryant panel that I am putting a new 15amp breaker into. Trying to find bryant breakers, I was informed cutler-hammer bought out bryant. I was also told cutler hammer breakers would fit a bryant panel. I put a CH breaker in and it would not hold, and no voltage could be read. Any suggestions?
    I thought they were bought by Murray but it wouldn't matter unless they kept manufacturing the same ones... breakers must be approved for use in the panel. You can check this chart to see which panels the CH is approved for: http://www.eatonelectrical.com/unsec...A00304001E.PDF

    Half the guys here probably have used ones from panel upgrades. I'll check the bins later.
    Last edited by DaveTap; 11-28-06 at 12:41 PM.
    (yes it's REALLY my name) HVAC/ Electrical Contractor licensed Chicago,IL ... I said its OFF! Don't you trust me?

  3. #3
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    John, Chair City, NC
    Technology: Mans best efforts to make things as good as they used to be

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lithium1994
    I put a CH breaker in and it would not hold, and no voltage could be read.
    hmmm...what does "not hold" mean?
    Phyisically in the panel or stay closed?


    Quote Originally Posted by Lithium1994
    I was also told cutler hammer breakers would fit a bryant panel.
    The breaker should be a "CH-BR" model...is that what you have?
    ĦĦĦĦĦĦĦĦĦĦĦĦ
    ««« CELTIC »»»
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  5. #5
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    The Cutler Hammer "BR" series is BRyant. CutlerHammer took over the Bryant line.

  6. #6
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    Refer to this copy of a letter from UL which should answer your questions directly.
    http://www.eatonelectrical.com/unsec...T01221002E.PDF

  7. #7
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    thanks for all the help guys, I found an old breaker on ebay, not the best solution, but it will work for now until i can afford a service change or panel upgrade
    "It's better to burn out than fade away."

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lithium1994
    I found an old breaker on ebay, not the best solution, but it will work for now until i can afford a service change or panel upgrade
    Will it work?
    How do you know it wasn't taken from the swamps of New Orleans?


    I think you can't afford NOT to just buy a new one at HD, Lowe's, a local supply house, or even online from a retailer:

    Here's a list of supply houses in your area:
    http://searchbug.switchboard.com/bin...Waterbury&S=CT

    $3.95 @ http://www.okelectricsupply.com/cuhaweb.html
    ĦĦĦĦĦĦĦĦĦĦĦĦ
    ««« CELTIC »»»
    ĦĦĦĦĦĦĦĦĦĦĦĦ
    An error on your part does not constitute an emergency on my part.8-)


  9. #9
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    Celtic,
    Yes, isn't it great to save money by purchasing from the used market. You save money, the space is filled, you attach the wire, and it does open and close all right. Not a problem. The space has been filled and you walk away content and the customer doesn't know the difference because they trust your judgement and expertise as that is what they have payed for.
    But, as you said, does it work? Can you be assured that it will protect in the event of an overload or short circuit?
    Is the electrician willing to gamble with a potential liability lawsuit?
    It's best to simply purchase one new that is uninstalled and has been calibrated at the factory sealed.

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