Interpretation of IRC minimum service requirements.

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fastline

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To be brief, in my area, I MUST build a dwelling in order to build a storage out building, even out in the most remote area you can think of. I am highly irritated. I am now going through all the code 'minimums' to figure out what will satisfy the requirements.

So far I am at 120-150sf. I am basically building a nice little tool shed (will be converted as soon as officials sign off). It will basically have a tiny kitchen sink, a single element cook surface, small lavatory and shower, and a little baseboard electric heater. It will not have a dish washer, disposal, washer, etc, etc.

I am NOT paying to have rural electric run and the code guy could not find anything that prohibits me from using a generator. For this reason, the smaller the better.

Per CH 36 of the IRC, I am arriving at rough service loads of 6-8kva. Also under CH36 is "conductor sizing" in which it states that the ampacity of "the conductor" shall be a minimum of 100A. I see nothing that says the service must be 100A. Actually it runs you through the song and dance calcs and I don't have much to hook up. I am not insulating but I most throw a little electric heater in there because it must be heated.

Am I misunderstanding the language before I have a talk with code officials Monday?
 
If NEC also applies your service disconnecting means must have at least a 100 amp rating for a one family dwelling.
 
Not familiar with IRC, but also based on NEC terminology if you are not supplied by utility company, you have no service or service entrance, that leaves you with art 215 feeders or 225 outdoor branch circuits and feeders to look at for the supply. Both those only require the feeder conductors to be sized per the load, 225 part II buildings supplied by feeder or branch circuit however does require the main disconnecting means for a one family dwelling to still be rated at least 100 amps just like the service disconnecting means does in art 230.

I see no real good reason to have more than 8 to 10 kVA rated generator (or even wind or solar equipment) to supply this house, but still need a main disconnect rated at 100 amps, can be supplied by a 35 amp feeder if that is the load calculation.
 
I think the requirements in 250.30 for separately derived systems would apply, including system and supply-side bonding jumpers, grounding electrode and GEC, etc.
 
Above is what I am starting to come around to and I will have a long list of questions for code enforcement tomorrow. Yes, NEC would apply for standard wiring practices, but our county uses the IRC to dictate things like minimum room sizes, ceilings, etc. Basically basic minimums.

I am going to have to fight this battle with code references. So far the IRC references a "service" and a service is further defined as utility. HOWEVER, I have yet to find the magic language that states what is really even required to be called a dwelling. So far I have most certainly found that I must have a sink, 30x30 shower, a toilet, and heating to be able to warm the structure to 68F. It says nothing about insulation and since there is no garage, I am hoping to forgo drywall, BUT wiring will need covered.

I am not concerned about installing conductors rated to 100A. That should just be some triplex and a 100A load center with main breaker serving as the disconnect. Actually, if running on a generator, there will be another disconnect called a "kill switch" outside, so that seems covered.

Per the IRC anyway, it does look like if I have anything electric, I would have to install 100A rated mains. I could heat it with gas, but then you get into even more BS with propane so probably easier to just add some electric.

Main issues right now is providing potable water and sewer. So far, I believe I can just install a Culligan water dispenser and booster pump to get it pressurized. They apparently make "composting toilets" that use no water??? lol EWW, and no it would never get used..... They have some tray that you dump every couple months.

I am hoping I can get them to buy off on a gray water tank system that I would just "take to a disposal station". Basically I do not want to have to build a septic system on the books with them so I need to find another solution.
 

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Sounds like an outhouse is out then...

All this work for a 150 sq ft garden shed?

Why not go bigger and make a shop out of it too?


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I feel a "dwelling unit" by definition leave a lot to interpretation. "provisions for sleeping" for instance could be a king size bed or a futon, depending on a standard of living. Many Amish don't even have electricity, yet their home is a "dwelling unit".

many people eat in the living area and cooking can be done in a LONG list of ways.

Just saying, this might be interesting and I would rather hinge my arguments on code rather than a "code official's opinion".

I was just talking to someone tonight about how these officials seem to make stuff up out of thin air but then cannot reference a specific code.
 
I used to own a van camper that had everything needed for living. Shower, bucket potty, one burner stove, ice box, bed, clothing storage, TV, fans, and air conditioning if I chose to park where I could plug in. It was tiny, no bigger than a service van, but I lived in it for three months while I was in Las Vegas.
 
fastline said:
I feel a "dwelling unit" by definition leave a lot to interpretation. "provisions for sleeping" for instance could be a king size bed or a futon, depending on a standard of living. Many Amish don't even have electricity, yet their home is a "dwelling unit".

many people eat in the living area and cooking can be done in a LONG list of ways.

Just saying, this might be interesting and I would rather hinge my arguments on code rather than a "code official's opinion".

I was just talking to someone tonight about how these officials seem to make stuff up out of thin air but then cannot reference a specific code.
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Amish in this area all have electric lights and some appliances AFAIK, they definitely use power tools these days for their own work or for hire. However they are not supplied by the grid, if they own the place, if they are renting they will have utilities and will utilize them. Renting is usually temporary and they eventually move into something they own or purchase what they are renting. Many have solar panels probably with battery systems and they will use generators when needing more power than a solar or other system can deliver at that time.
 
We do some work for some Amish groups and told that there are many different "groups" of them, with different requirements and ways of living. Some use tractors, some are horse/buggy types.

Anywho, as I read more, though our county has adopted the 2018 IRC, their amended resolution has deleted the electrical section of the IRC, and deflect to the 2017 NEC. In talking with the county, they are looking into the question of generators but it does sound like the standards of 120/240, 3 wire, etc, mostly pertains to the standards by the utility, in which I am not connecting. I did find something in the IBC regarding "emergency and standby generators" that indicates a UL2200 listed device. That could be a problem if they lean on that because I did not intend to use a listed generator.

I am not yet sure how they might approach inductive inrush.
 
fastline said:
To be brief, in my area, I MUST build a dwelling in order to build a storage out building,
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I find that impossible to believe unless it's on a parcel of land by itself.

If you have to build a dwelling you are going to have to provide permanent water from a well and sanitary facilities and disposal such as a septic to meet any building code I am aware of. I also doubt that you will be able to get away with no insulation or sheetrock. You will have to meet the minimum energy code so plan on 2x6 exterior framing.

Since your electrical code is the NEC 2017, spend the few hundred dollars for a 100A panel and the required wiring, branch circuits, receptacles and AFCIs. You can install a generator inlet, to feed the panel. I think the electrical is the least of your problem.

-Hal
 
hbiss said:
I find that impossible to believe unless it's on a parcel of land by itself.

If you have to build a dwelling you are going to have to provide permanent water from a well and sanitary facilities and disposal such as a septic to meet any building code I am aware of. I also doubt that you will be able to get away with no insulation or sheetrock. You will have to meet the minimum energy code so plan on 2x6 exterior framing.

Since your electrical code is the NEC 2017, spend the few hundred dollars for a 100A panel and the required wiring, branch circuits, receptacles and AFCIs. You can install a generator inlet, to feed the panel. I think the electrical is the least of your problem.

-Hal
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Is the Midwest 2X6 exterior required?
 
Hbiss, this is a large acreage parcel with nothing on it currently. Our zoning codes are rather lax in remote rural areas, but they do have this one limitation on building a residential accessory building without a residence. I can most certainly build a farm building, but I would be taxed more than double, and those taxes would just continue to rise year after year.

Our county very specifically deleted the energy part of the code (quoted directly from official today) because they are too strict and costly currently, so they leave the option for people to improve efficiency. They require 2x4 exterior walls with R13. There is not sheetrock requirement, BUT there is a smoke and flame spread requirement that could end up meaning sheetrock is needed.

The local guy with septics is pretty reasonable and willing to work with me if I 'have to' build the septic. I have extensive experience designing and building them, I just don't want to just to satisfy the dwelling BS. Many people buy drinking water. It sounds like the county is already tuning their mindset to accommodate the tiny home surge as many people look for ways to escape some insane taxes. obviously that is why I am going to these extremes.
 
fastline said:
Hbiss, this is a large acreage parcel with nothing on it currently. Our zoning codes are rather lax in remote rural areas, but they do have this one limitation on building a residential accessory building without a residence. I can most certainly build a farm building, but I would be taxed more than double, and those taxes would just continue to rise year after year.

Our county very specifically deleted the energy part of the code (quoted directly from official today) because they are too strict and costly currently, so they leave the option for people to improve efficiency. They require 2x4 exterior walls with R13. There is not sheetrock requirement, BUT there is a smoke and flame spread requirement that could end up meaning sheetrock is needed.

The local guy with septics is pretty reasonable and willing to work with me if I 'have to' build the septic. I have extensive experience designing and building them, I just don't want to just to satisfy the dwelling BS. Many people buy drinking water. It sounds like the county is already tuning their mindset to accommodate the tiny home surge as many people look for ways to escape some insane taxes. obviously that is why I am going to these extremes.
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More than double of what? Taxed at a different rate, or is the value modified because it is now a business venture, even if you are not in business of farming?

How many acres of land you talking about? Under 10 or so may not be such a big deal value wise, but if quite a few acres the land probably valued more than whatever small building you are placing on it.
 
fastline said:
Our zoning codes are rather lax in remote rural areas, but they do have this one limitation on building a residential accessory building without a residence. I can most certainly build a farm building, but I would be taxed more than double, and those taxes would just continue to rise year after year.
Click to expand...

That's exactly what I thought. You want to build a "shed" or residential accessory building all by itself on a piece of land that has no residence for it to be an accessory to. Since it won't be a residence they have no choice but to call it a commercial or farm structure and tax you accordingly. I don't see that being much different anywhere.

-Hal
 
Why don't you just park a large enough enclosed trailer there to use for your storage. It's not a building so no building codes apply.
 
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