Extend my ethernet/

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ptonsparky

ptonsparky

Tom
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NE (9.06 miles @5.9 Degrees from Winged Horses)
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EC - retired
Yes, it's a DIY. Maybe
I need to extend my ethernet out a couple hundred feet to include a recently added garage/ OF cave.
I see they have systems available that will handle well over that on A....
Are they as easy as the videos depict?
One brand better than another?
 
S

SceneryDriver

Senior Member
Location
NJ
Occupation
Electrical and Automation Designer
ptonsparky said:
Yes, it's a DIY. Maybe
I need to extend my ethernet out a couple hundred feet to include a recently added garage/ OF cave.
I see they have systems available that will handle well over that on A....
Are they as easy as the videos depict?
One brand better than another?
Click to expand...
Ubiquity's gear is very solid. There's a learning curve with their stuff, and no phone technical support; it's all handled via forum posts. If you have little or no networking experience, offer a friend who does a six-pack for some help.

That said, I've installed multiple Ubiquity WiFi systems, and have few complaints. They're rock solid and once set up, need very little looking after. I think I've power cycled my access point and router twice in the last two years, and once of those times was because we moved to a new house.


SceneryDriver
 
infinity

infinity

Moderator
Staff member
Location
New Jersey
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Journeyman Electrician
How do you plan on extending it running a cable? There is a limit as to how long fo a run you can have on an typical CAT6 Ethernet cable.
 
H

Hv&Lv

Senior Member
Location
-
Occupation
Engineer/Technician
Cable extension may be easiest if you already have conduit, but I agree with infinity.
You get about 300’ you need to look at something else.
 
synchro

synchro

Senior Member
Location
Chicago, IL
Occupation
EE
You could try one of the powerline carrier adapters from TP-Link. They seem to work best if they are put on the same phase of 120V.
 
T

tthh

Senior Member
Location
Denver
Occupation
Retired Engineer
A cable will "just work" and all the rest may or may not and may after many hours of configuration and troubleshooting and then years later when something dies, that part won't be made anymore and you won't have the configuration files and so on. Small hurdles for cable outweigh all else, of course, if it isn't doable you have little choice.
 
Sea Nile

Sea Nile

Senior Member
Location
Georgia
Occupation
Electrician
Simple step to try, can you relocate your router closer to the garage and if you are running 5ghz, change it to channel 1 on 2.4 GHz. Lower frequencies travel farther and penetrate deeper. You can download a free app, Wi-Fi analyzer, to see if you have any neighbors on channel 1. If channel 1 has a lot of interference, look for a channel that's more open.
 

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Sea Nile

Sea Nile

Senior Member
Location
Georgia
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Electrician
If it were me, I would get a second router, one that features long range, connect it to your primary router with a network cable and run it to a place in your house that is closest to the garage, or in a window sill so there is not much building materials line of sight. Then you can run your primary on 5ghz for greater bandwidth for devices in your house, and the new router at 2.4ghz for greater transmit distance to your garage
 
A

adnj

Member
Location
US
I have a few buildings that aren't too far away from each other. The best solution for me was running CAT6 cable to each building and installing a cascaded router in each building.

All of the cables are in 1" underground PVC conduit runs that were installed when the primary structure was built. If you need to, there is outdoor CAT6 cable available that is approved for direct burial. The maximum certified run is 100 meters (328 ft) and the cost for 100m of cable is less than US$100.

Sent from my LG-V520 using Tapatalk
 
A

Amps

Electrical Contractor
Location
New Jersey
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Electrical, Security, Networks and Everything Else.
Is the garage a detached building? Never run CAT6 or any copper communications circuit between detached buildings. Signal grounding and signal noise can occur. Attenuation can occur if the run is over 100 meters. Go with Fiber or Wireless.
 
synchro

synchro

Senior Member
Location
Chicago, IL
Occupation
EE
ptonsparky said:
Separate electrical service to each building. 200’ max and I have the direct bury cable. Didn’t want that extra path. That and the grounds frozen.
Click to expand...

What data rate is acceptable to you? It couid be worth trying power line carrier adapters if lower data rates are OK, because all you have to do is plug them into a wall socket on each end to get ethernet connectivity.
For example:
https://www.tomsguide.com/reviews/tp-link-tl-pa9020p-powerline-extender

The maximum range and data rate they give is under ideal conditions over a single pair of wires. The achievable range and data rate will be reduced by reflections from all of the wire "stubs" that are connected together in a home wiring system, as well as by noise from switching supplies, etc.
 
Z

zbang

Senior Member
Location
Roughly 5346 miles from Earls Court
Amps said:
Never run CAT6 or any copper communications circuit between detached buildings. Signal grounding and signal noise can occur. Attenuation can occur if the run is over 100 meters.
Click to expand...
TP Ethernet is multiple electrically-isolated balanced lines inside the cable (there are tiny transformers at each end).
Signal grounding? Not relevant to TP Ethernet.
Noise? See balanced line.
Attenuation occurs with every millimeter of cable, but takes a while to become significant.
TP Ethernet is only officially good for 100 meters anyway.
As pretty much all of us have said- go wireless.
 
M

MTW

Senior Member
Location
SE Michigan
Another vote for Ubiquity, I have used several models of their outdoor wireless radios over the last 15 years and have never had a problem. 200' is nothing for even their low end products if mounted outdoors and a clear line of sight. The first ones I ever purchased are still working fine.
 
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